Block Heater

[Roscoe294]

Hello,

I'd like to find a block heater for my Yanmar motor. Motor currently sits in a JD 7775 skid steer. Motor was made for JD by Yanmar and came out of a JD turf mower.

The tag on top of the motor reads "4tn82-rje" and I'm not sure what I need or where the block heater would thread into the motor.

I'd like to stay away from the lower radiator hose circulator type.

Any help is appreciated

Thanks

 

[winston1]

Engine Block Heater with cord fits Yanmar 4TN82E & 4TNE98 (4 cyl.) | eBay

 

[rScotty]

Engine Block Heater with cord fits Yanmar 4TN82E & 4TNE98 (4 cyl.) | eBay

That picture looks just like the ones I've used on Yanmars before. Roscoe, if you look at the side of the motor block one of the "freeze plugs" should be on a raised boss and be plugged by a threaded plug with a hex key hole to turn it. That one unscrews - sometimes with great difficulty - and is replaced by the block heater. Be careful; if the block threads get messed up it can be a problem.

Better keep the threaded plug. Like many Japanese manufacturers, Yanmar tends to use British Standard Pipe threads for for anything threading into their cast iron blocks instead of the more familiar North American NPT thread used in US manufacturing. Unfortunately, the NPT thread will work just well enough to ruin the threads in the block, but still leak. That goes for the oil and temp senders too.

There's another solution as well. Your engine is a standard 220 series 4 cylinder Yanmar used by lots of JD equipment in the roughly 30 to 90 hp range. In fact, it's used by high end equipment all over the world. If it were mine, I'd probably just head down to the JD dealer and be sure of getting the right thing. Fifty bucks is a typical price.
rScotty

 

[oosik]

Man - rScotty is right on point. I'd take Scotty's suggestion and buy what you need from a JD dealer. I've had ONE block heater and it leaked - UGGGG.

Strange - I much prefer lower heater hose circulating heaters and have consistently had good luck with them. To each his own..........

 

[4570Man]

It seems like a lower heater hose heater would waste a lot of heat out the radiator.

 

[rScotty]

It seems like a lower heater hose heater would waste a lot of heat out the radiator.

Here's where I admit to ignorance....I don't know anything at all about those inserted hose heaters.

Is there typically room to fit hose heaters in or do you have to extend the hose somehow?
Do hose heaters have some kind of positive circulation like a propeller inside? I hear them referred to as "circulation type".
What's the pro and con of each? I'm guessing they are all in the sub-1500 watt range, but not even sure of that or by how much.
For both types of heater, doesn't the thermostat control how much heat is lost through the radiator?
rScotty

 

[buickanddeere]

https://phillipsandtemro.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/2017-Zerostart-Temro-Web-Catalog.pdf

 

[oosik]

Well - the circulating tank heaters (aka- circulating lower hose heater) work much like your percolator coffee pot. You cut the lower heater, RETURN hose, and stub in the tank heater. The total flow of heated water will ONLY get into the radiator if/when the water is warm enough to open the thermostat and allow full circulation thru the radiator. Otherwise - the tank heater perks along - pulling cold water from the radiator - heats the water and returns it to the engine block. About as hot as I've EVER seen the water get is around 150F - not hot enough to open the thermostat and let hot water flood into the radiator. The total amount of water that makes the "full loop" is controlled by the amount allowed to pass the thermostat in its closed state. Its not a whole lot but sufficient to warm an engine block to around 150F in about 3 to 5 hours

Works on the principle - hot water will rise, cold water will fall.

 

[Doofy]

Lower radiator hose heater works great and is easier to see if it springs a leak.

 

[PILOON]

Some hose heaters actually have check valves built in, once the fluid reaches temperature it expands and pushes forward the hot fluid.
Also very easy to install, cut insert and add 2 clamps. Downside is that you need to drain B4 cutting but then that also applies with block heaters as well.

AS to magnetic units, forget them. They heat the air (slightly).
Had 2 on my 20 HP 3 cyl while waiting for the proper replacement for the shorted frost plug block heater.
24 hrs later and the tractor still would not start.
I resorted to blow torch on the oil pan plus a 4000 watt construction heater.

I later learned that using a hair drier to warm the intake air was a good trick.