Block Heaters

[Junkman]

I asked my dealer about the heater and he informed me that it was the type that mounted into the radiator hose. My thoughts are that they sell a generic heater, rather than the factory item. I would prefer the screw in type, so I guess that I am going to install it my self. Do you know the thread size of the hole that the heater goes into and where on the engine block is it located? thanks Junkman

 

[Charliebrn]

On the BX2200, there is a threaded plug on the right side of the engine just under the exhaust manifold. It takes a 17mm hex wrench to remove it. It's an easy job, just take it easy on the thread compound...you don't want to get any in your engine.

the threaded in block heater is really better than the other types, as the entire engine is warmed up. I'm very happy with mine after a couple of years, glad I did it....

 

[StoneHeartFarm]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( the block heater isnt designed to help in the actual startup, of the engine its designed to keep the oil heated so it flows as soon as the engine starts, there by keeping the engine lubed it will last longer. my dealer explained it to me this way, makes sense.. he also said dont keep it plugged in all the time, unless you like paying for electricity. he suggested plugging in for 20-30 minutes prior to using it .<br><br> )</font>


If I understand it correctly, the problem is that at cold temperatures, the oil will become "ropey". That is, too thick to run easily. So, when the crank goes around and dips through the oil sump, it will scoop up the oil and fling it against the side of the block. This oil will then very slowly start to run back into the sump. The colder the temperatures, the slower the oil will run. Get cold enough, and the oil sump can lose a lot of its oil to the sides of the block. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Steve

 

[RalphVa]

I don't have my BX yet, but I've had 2 diesel Benzes now with engine heaters. I also worked 31 years in lubricating oil processes.

The block heater on my old 220D was one that installed in the rad or heater hose from JC Whitney. Worked great at -20 in Vermont. Plugged it in about 1 hour before starting.

The block heater on my 240D is a dealer-installed one that screws into a plug in the side of the engine, into the coolant area. Never used it too much, as we never took it to Vermont much by the time we got it. In our NJ garage, I'd use it occasionally. Was always afraid the wife would forget to unplug it.

Most wear on your engine occurs at startup. I've seen movies of research tests on oil of cars starting at -40. Those without synthetic oil or 0W normal oils would start smoking their valve gear before the oil got to it. Not sure what the situation is for using synthetic in diesels. Generally they won't keep the soot and stuff in suspension as well as the additives put in petroleum oil. I use Mobil 1 now in all my air-cooled gasoline engines, 0W40 in winter and 15W50 in summer, but have not problem adding 0W40 anytime.

Another problem with cold starting is wax formation on the fuel filter. Had this problem on my old 220D when I started it once on a -20 morning. Started, but stalled a couple miles down the road. Restarted after sitting 2 or 3 minutes, then stalled 2 or 3 more miles. Waited, then restarted. Then it was okay. Best way to avoid this, unless you have a heater to heat up the fuel filter well before starting is to put 1/3 to 1/2 kerosene in the fuel.

Ralph