Blow-in insulation behind pegboard?

[Sodo]

If theres any time at all - I want to build & "move into" a new workbench. The workshop bay is 14x23. Not sure what that hairdresser sink it all about; its not plumbed in, never was. There is a drain stub in the wall. I was hoping there might be plumbing for hot water for a real utility sink, but theres only cold. Someday will install an instant-on water heater. This house has some crazy stuff, was a rental for 10+ years.



Have several woodstoves piling up & endless supply of firewood. Pretty much settled on a woodstove.

 

[GLyford]

On the sink, I'm going to go with "someone salvaged it and thought it was too cool to not use it for something."

 

[jack707]

Rocxol is all they use in boiler instulation.

 

[AGRIMAN]

Based on our experience, I would not recommend use cellulose behind pegboard. Blow in will begin to settle over time and the cellulose has a tendency to turn to dust which will come through the holes in the pegboard. You will never keep it cleaned up.

We are spray foam contractors, but we have received some many request from customers wanting the cellulose blow in removed that we are buying our own vacuum machine. The number 1 complaint (other than it no longer works) is they have a constant dusty smell in their house.

I would also recommend that you check your attic insulation.

 

[EddieWalker]

Based on our experience, I would not recommend use cellulose behind pegboard. Blow in will begin to settle over time and the cellulose has a tendency to turn to dust which will come through the holes in the pegboard. You will never keep it cleaned up.

We are spray foam contractors, but we have received some many request from customers wanting the cellulose blow in removed that we are buying our own vacuum machine. The number 1 complaint (other than it no longer works) is they have a constant dusty smell in their house.

I would also recommend that you check your attic insulation.

Have you ever had any complaints from people that have used Attic Cat blown in insulation?

 

[Budweiser John]

Spray foam is the way to go period end of discussion.
Best money I ever spent was to foam my shop and the wives tack room in the barn

 

[EddieWalker]

Not to be argumentative, but at what cost is spray foam the best?

I agree that it's superior to anything else on the market, but I struggle with the cost of it over fiberglass bats for the walls in a shop or barn with big doors in it that are rarely sealed, and usually wide open when working on projects. In my opinion, the best bang for the dollar is maxing out your R value in the attic and sealing off your exterior walls so the air cannot get through it.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have to agree with Eddie, last time I checked, spray foam was about triple the cost for just the product for DIY, even more if it is done by a professional.
If it was my shop, I would take off all the peg board and put in fiberglass bat insulation with the paper backing facing the heated side of the shop. IF you can afford it, put 3/8" plywood back on the walls and only put the pegboard back where you need to store tools. You can screw on 1x2 to raise it off the wall. The solid plywood is not going to trap a spark from welding and the fiberglass is not going to support much flame.
To install the fiberglass bat insulation, all you need is a staple gun and razor knife to cut it when needed. The rolls are already cut to 8 foot lengths but if your walls are not exactly 8 foot, you will have to do some splicing. I did my 30x14 boat shed walls and ceiling with it for around $200 in materials (I had a few rolls free from neighbor though). The walls were easy, but I had to enlist my brother in law to help hold up the ceiling panels. I left it all exposed except for about 5 feet on the lower walls that I covered with pieces of left over plywood just to protect the paper backing on the insulation from getting torn from activities in the shed. It sure made a difference in temps in there both summer and winter.

 

[Budweiser John]

Not to be argumentative, but at what cost is spray foam the best?

I agree that it's superior to anything else on the market, but I struggle with the cost of it over fiberglass bats for the walls in a shop or barn with big doors in it that are rarely sealed, and usually wide open when working on projects. In my opinion, the best bang for the dollar is maxing out your R value in the attic and sealing off your exterior walls so the air cannot get through it.

I originally installed fiberglass bats in the shop building and they worked Ok until the mice and moisture claimed their R value. Now, it can get pretty cold in Michigan and as age (mine) has crept into the picture working comfort is no longer 'nice' but a necessity.
The closed cell foam insulation in concert with insulated pass doors, a 3" thick insulated 16'x14' overhead door and a wood stove makes for a 65 degree working environment when the outside wind chills are in single didgets. The shop is a tad short of 2600 square feet I could never attain that comfort level with only fiberglass
Relative to cost, yes it's expensive. Cost vs value is in the eye of the beholder. Cold hands and cold feet drive me nuts.
B. John

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Cementitious foam.