Blown 30 amp fuse Jinma 224

[jaroban]

Greg you were right. I went out to the barn this am before work and checked. I had wire 5 on post two and it should have been on post one. When I get home this pm I will start over. Thanks Robby

 

[jaroban]

I got home switched the wire I still have no voltage anywhere except the starter cylonoid. Did I fry something? Robby

 

[Diamondpilot]

I got home switched the wire I still have no voltage anywhere except the starter cylonoid. Did I fry something? Robby

Start at the beginning with a volt meter and work your way back to the switch.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

With the keyswitch off, you should only see voltage on the large gauge solenoid post. From there it goes via smaller gauge wire up to the ammeter, and eventually on to the input post of the keyswitch. But with the keyswitch OFF, the voltage has no way to get to ground. In the absence of a path to ground, your meter will read zero for now. To see voltage, you have to check between the input to the ammeter and ground. That should veveal the same 12v you saw at the solenoid. Then check between the ammeter output post and ground. That provides a path to ground, and should register on your voltmeter. But the load is almost nil, so you'll not likely see any ammeter activity yet. If there's voltage, the ammeter is good - and the same voltage should be present at the input post on the keyswitch. If there's no voltage, start shopping for a new ammeter.

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

I will get started when I get home. Yesterday I checked for power at the amp meter with the neg. lead on the battery. I may have a broken wire in between the starter sylonoid and amp meter. Thanks for the info I was getting discouraged. Robby

 

[jaroban]

I got home and started to work. On my tractor I have two wires at the sylonoid red wire # 11 and white wire# 2 that is going back to the positive battery . If I understand the wiring diagram the path should go from the starter sylonoid to the amp meter. If I go to the amp meter I have wire #5(yellow) and # 3( green) there is no power at either. The # 5 wire should have some voltage at the key switch post 1 I have no power at all on post 1. The 30 amp system fuse is good. Robby

 

[greg_g]

I'm unsure whether you're reading the diagram correctly. Voltage starts obviously at the + post on the battery. It flows to the starter/solenoid via the positive battery cable, and connects at a large diameter post. Either from that post - or jumpered from it - is a smaller wire (#2) that goes to the fuse box. There it goes through the 30A system fuse, then on to the ammeter via wire #3. The ammeter in turn feeds voltage to the keyswitch input post on wire #5. But none of this is grounded yet. You won't see voltage between any of these points, you'll only find voltage between these points and ground.

Unfortunately, it's come to light that various cold start keyswitches from various sources don't all share a common connector scheme. Some are post, some are screws, and not all assign the same numbers to the same posts/screws. To be absolutely sure about which wire goes on which post/screws, it's wise to "Ohm out" the switch before installation. That's your final confirmation of which post is associated with which key position, from which you conclude which wire goes where.

But so far all you've spoken of is voltage. Have you in fact done resistance checks on the keyswitch to confirm which posts/screws are tied to which key position?

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

You were right again. I thought the path was from the starter solenoid to the amp meter. I did ohm out the and installed the new switch Sunday afternoon. I ohm the new switch out switch position one is off
position two # 1& 2
position three 1,2&4
position four 1,&3
position five 1,3&5
The way I have it wired is as follows
Wire10(starter solenoid) post 5
Wire 12(glow plugs) post 3
Wire 5(amp meter) post 1
Wire 6(fuse panel) post 2
There is a red wire no # that goes to the
Clock it is on post 4.
I still have no power to the # 2 wire at the
Fuse panel. I have power at the starter
Solenoid. I am sorry that it took so long
To get back to you I mowed for about ten
Hours this weekend. Thanks Robby

 

[greg_g]

Wire/post relationship seems correct. But it's academic if you've still got no juice at the ammeter. Note however that the fuse box is between the solenoid and the ammeter. Two things come to mind; (a) you can't always tell by looking whether a fuse is any good, and (b) Jinma fuse boxes have been known to crack. So my next recommendation is to check for 12v between the input side of the 30A system fuse and ground. That's where wire #2 goes into the box. If you've got 12v there, either the fuse is in fact bad - or the box itself is bad. Both issues are not uncommon to Jinma. You can't always tell visually whether a Chinese fuse is any good, you must confirm it with a meter. Remove the fuse from the box and perform a continuity check. If it's bad, replace it. If it's good, you should probably start shopping for a new fuse box. If you feel comfortable doing so, you can bypass the system fuse and fuse holder by temporarily jumpering wires #2 and #3.

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

The fuse is good I have taken it and checked it. Does The # 2 wire that comes off the starter solenoid go
Straight to the system fuse or does it go somewhere else first? You see I have voltage to ground at the solenoid but when I trace it to that large 12 Pin connector I have no voltage. Robby