Blown 30 amp fuse Jinma 224

[jaroban]

Greg you were right. I went out to the barn this am before work and checked. I had wire 5 on post two and it should have been on post one. When I get home this pm I will start over. Thanks Robby

 

[jaroban]

I got home switched the wire I still have no voltage anywhere except the starter cylonoid. Did I fry something? Robby

 

[Diamondpilot]

I got home switched the wire I still have no voltage anywhere except the starter cylonoid. Did I fry something? Robby

Start at the beginning with a volt meter and work your way back to the switch.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

With the keyswitch off, you should only see voltage on the large gauge solenoid post. From there it goes via smaller gauge wire up to the ammeter, and eventually on to the input post of the keyswitch. But with the keyswitch OFF, the voltage has no way to get to ground. In the absence of a path to ground, your meter will read zero for now. To see voltage, you have to check between the input to the ammeter and ground. That should veveal the same 12v you saw at the solenoid. Then check between the ammeter output post and ground. That provides a path to ground, and should register on your voltmeter. But the load is almost nil, so you'll not likely see any ammeter activity yet. If there's voltage, the ammeter is good - and the same voltage should be present at the input post on the keyswitch. If there's no voltage, start shopping for a new ammeter.

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

I will get started when I get home. Yesterday I checked for power at the amp meter with the neg. lead on the battery. I may have a broken wire in between the starter sylonoid and amp meter. Thanks for the info I was getting discouraged. Robby

 

[jaroban]

I got home and started to work. On my tractor I have two wires at the sylonoid red wire # 11 and white wire# 2 that is going back to the positive battery . If I understand the wiring diagram the path should go from the starter sylonoid to the amp meter. If I go to the amp meter I have wire #5(yellow) and # 3( green) there is no power at either. The # 5 wire should have some voltage at the key switch post 1 I have no power at all on post 1. The 30 amp system fuse is good. Robby

 

[greg_g]

I'm unsure whether you're reading the diagram correctly. Voltage starts obviously at the + post on the battery. It flows to the starter/solenoid via the positive battery cable, and connects at a large diameter post. Either from that post - or jumpered from it - is a smaller wire (#2) that goes to the fuse box. There it goes through the 30A system fuse, then on to the ammeter via wire #3. The ammeter in turn feeds voltage to the keyswitch input post on wire #5. But none of this is grounded yet. You won't see voltage between any of these points, you'll only find voltage between these points and ground.

Unfortunately, it's come to light that various cold start keyswitches from various sources don't all share a common connector scheme. Some are post, some are screws, and not all assign the same numbers to the same posts/screws. To be absolutely sure about which wire goes on which post/screws, it's wise to "Ohm out" the switch before installation. That's your final confirmation of which post is associated with which key position, from which you conclude which wire goes where.

But so far all you've spoken of is voltage. Have you in fact done resistance checks on the keyswitch to confirm which posts/screws are tied to which key position?

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

You were right again. I thought the path was from the starter solenoid to the amp meter. I did ohm out the and installed the new switch Sunday afternoon. I ohm the new switch out switch position one is off
position two # 1& 2
position three 1,2&4
position four 1,&3
position five 1,3&5
The way I have it wired is as follows
Wire10(starter solenoid) post 5
Wire 12(glow plugs) post 3
Wire 5(amp meter) post 1
Wire 6(fuse panel) post 2
There is a red wire no # that goes to the
Clock it is on post 4.
I still have no power to the # 2 wire at the
Fuse panel. I have power at the starter
Solenoid. I am sorry that it took so long
To get back to you I mowed for about ten
Hours this weekend. Thanks Robby

 

[greg_g]

Wire/post relationship seems correct. But it's academic if you've still got no juice at the ammeter. Note however that the fuse box is between the solenoid and the ammeter. Two things come to mind; (a) you can't always tell by looking whether a fuse is any good, and (b) Jinma fuse boxes have been known to crack. So my next recommendation is to check for 12v between the input side of the 30A system fuse and ground. That's where wire #2 goes into the box. If you've got 12v there, either the fuse is in fact bad - or the box itself is bad. Both issues are not uncommon to Jinma. You can't always tell visually whether a Chinese fuse is any good, you must confirm it with a meter. Remove the fuse from the box and perform a continuity check. If it's bad, replace it. If it's good, you should probably start shopping for a new fuse box. If you feel comfortable doing so, you can bypass the system fuse and fuse holder by temporarily jumpering wires #2 and #3.

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

The fuse is good I have taken it and checked it. Does The # 2 wire that comes off the starter solenoid go
Straight to the system fuse or does it go somewhere else first? You see I have voltage to ground at the solenoid but when I trace it to that large 12 Pin connector I have no voltage. Robby

 

[Affordable]

Check the Big white wire on the end of that 12-pin connector, that is normally the culprit

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[jaroban]

I checked the big white wire#2. It has no continuity from the starter solenoid to the twelve pin connector. The drawing that I have the #2 wire goes straight from the solenoid to the twelve pin connector. Do you know if the wire goes anywhere else? The next thing I am going to do is tear into the wiring harnes and see if the wire is broken or goes somewhere other than the twelve pin connector. My diagram dois not even show the twelve pin connector. Thanks Tommy ang Greg for your input so far. Robby

 

[greg_g]

Short of simply running a proper gauge wire, that would seem to be your next course of action. I personally think its a poorly engineered and constructed electrical system. Pinched wires are not uncommon. On mine, I added a glow plug relay, a starter relay, and proper 10ga primary wire in the high current draw paths

//greg//

 

[erj]

Jaroban

I have the Jinma 284. Here are a couple of things that I put together for my learning that may be of help to you.

Also if you need a wire diagram, do a search on this web-site for postings by RonMar. He created an excellent diagram that has been posted on several threads.

 

[jaroban]

Did you alter that junk clutch switch? If so what switch did you use? The original is at least .5 to long.

I am out of town for four days. I will get back to my electrical prob. when I get home.

I like your idea about just changing the # 2 wire

Thanks Robby

 

[greg_g]

I just bypassed the clutch interlock switch altogether. But just so there's no confusion, there's no direct relationship between that switch and wire #2.

Here's the deal on the clutch interlock switch: assuming 12v at the keyswitch, wire #10 only gets voltage with the key in the spring return START position. The interlock switch stops the voltage until energized by the clutch pedal. At that time, it permits the 12v to continue on to the starter solenoid via wire #11. Once that voltage hits the solenoid, it triggers a relay that temporarily connects the battery to the starter AND simultaneously causes the now spinning pinion gear to mesh with the ring gear on the flywheel. Once released, the spring loaded key returns to the RUN position and the 12v is removed from wires 10 and 11. This causes the solenoid cuts off starter voltage from the battery cable, and to retract the spring-return pinion gear.

The new circuit represented by my aftermarket starter relay mod did not include the clutch interlock switch. But to be fair, it also relies on getting 12v to the input post on the keyswitch.

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

Got started this pm. I ran a new wire to replace the white wire(2). Presto I have gauges and lights. I still have to start it at the solenoid but I have several things unhooked. This has been an experience. I would have never dreamed that that wire could be broken while still in the wiring harnes. Robby

 

[JAndersen123]

I have a similar problem but my 30 amp fuse will power up my meters, but it will blow if I try to crank the starter. Would this point to a problem with the starter solenoid? Could taking it to an auto shop for testing help?

 

[SPIKER]

I have a similar problem but my 30 amp fuse will power up my meters, but it will blow if I try to crank the starter. Would this point to a problem with the starter solenoid? Could taking it to an auto shop for testing help?

that would most likely be a GLOW PLUG, if you have the tractor with a START on the LEFT TURN of the key try it which bypasses the HEAT setting just prior to CRANK. You still have to turn it right to the run spot for gauges to work then.

OR you can disconnect the wire leading to the glow plugs (make sure it can not short out tape up wire end.) That will let you know most likely a shorted out Glow Plug.

Pull Copper Bus Bar and OHM each one out, somewhere around .3 ohms if I remember right a search in this forum will tell you.

Mark

 

[JAndersen123]

that would most likely be a GLOW PLUG, if you have the tractor with a START on the LEFT TURN of the key try it which bypasses the HEAT setting just prior to CRANK. You still have to turn it right to the run spot for gauges to work then.

OR you can disconnect the wire leading to the glow plugs (make sure it can not short out tape up wire end.) That will let you know most likely a shorted out Glow Plug.

Pull Copper Bus Bar and OHM each one out, somewhere around .3 ohms if I remember right a search in this forum will tell you.

Mark

Mark,
I disconnected the wire to the glow plugs and nothing changed. The initial turn of the key will properly turn on the gauges but as soon as I try to engage the starter the main fuse blows. I am thinking of removing the starter and seeing if I can have it checked at an automotive supplier. Any idea of the best place to order parts for Jinma tractors in the US. The last time I ordered was from a place in Canada, which included import duties. Thanks.