Board fence ideas?

   / Board fence ideas? #41  
I am soon to install a cedar wood fence. I consulted with a professional fence company about size of wood posts. They suggested not doing wood.

Their solution is a 2" metal pipe for a post, with 2x4 cedars on one edge and 1x6 cedar on the other dimension. So you get the strength and durability of steel with the look of wood.

I'm going to try it out and see how it works. Holes get dug later this week.
 
   / Board fence ideas? #42  
I built mine with treated round posts put in to 42" deep - the frost line here in Michigan. No concrete just some pea gravel at the bottom and then packing the dirt as I fill the hole. The boards are 1 x 6 x 16 long ash which I stagger the ends on. Fence has been in 7 years now and is used for horses. A diagonal board running from the top rail of one post to the bottom rail of the next post will strengthen the fence - and it looks nice if it runs up and down the fence. The boards are fastened by treated lumber screws.
IMG_1507.jpg
 
   / Board fence ideas? #43  
Around here before you dig, even putting in flowers, you are required to call 811 and all utilities are required to come mark their lines, for free. My experience they are usually marked within 2 days.
Yes, good point. Two business days after the day of the call is the target for 811 in every area that I have lived in. However, the onus is on the excavator to get responses from power, gas, water, telco, cable, etc., before digging. Just because there isn't a response, is not a "Go". Depending on the state, not every utility participates, and we've all heard stories about "lost" or unknown right of ways for pipelines.

They do usually require that the request or has flagged the target excavation area, and in most areas they won't mark anything on "your" side of the meter, but in some areas, they will mark private lines for you.


All the best,

Peter
 
   / Board fence ideas? #44  
I want a simple 3 board fence. All pressure treated, 4x6x8ft posts, 1x6x16ft boards. Posts 8ft apart. Three gates, a 16ft, a 6ft & 4ft. Tarter steel farm gate.
It will be 186 ft. total, downhill about 10-15 ft. below driveway, fairly straight and level. We have horses and it will enclose about a 200ft x 300ft area. Another gate near horse stable I can close it off if I want.
I have a pto auger but it's a 9" Danuser.
I had a fence contractor look at it, he said even near trees posts every 8ft the holes won't hurt trees (??cutting through roots??).
His estimate was $5,010.
I priced Home Depot (lumber) & Tractor Supply (gates).
Contractor said 4x6 posts, 3 boards with upright board on post face.
If I do it myself:
186 ft.
4x6×8ft=$19 (24) $456
1x6x8ft=$6 (96) $576
16ft gate=$170
2) gates=$200
_____________________
$1400+nails,screws

Should posts be 2ft in ground?
Should I use 9" auger and set posts in cement?
Buy a 6" Danuser auger bit $250?

I have air nailers & deck screws...would screws be better?
I drew in about what it would look like.View attachment 929832View attachment 929833View attachment 929835View attachment 929836View attachment 929837View attachment 929838
I set posts in pea gravel. It works great in our clay soil. I put the post in the hole and pour pea gravel in around it with a shovel, shake the post a little by hand and it firms right up. Some sort of vibrator would probably be even better. I've never had a post loosen up when set like that. They've been in the ground about 23 years. A few have rotted but most are still solid.
 
   / Board fence ideas? #45  
I'm currently fencing in about 25 acres for my horses and goats. I'm using 2x4 horse fence that's 48 inches tall. My round wood posts are 100 feet apart or less, and my T posts are every ten feet or less.

When I do the front of my place, along the paved road, I'm going to make it nicer looking with 4x6 wood posts every 8 feet. I will use a 12 inch auger every 8 feet and try to get 3 feet down. Sometimes I just cant get that far, but I do everything that I can to try to get that deep.

Every post will be filled with concrete. I built up the concrete so it's above the surrounding ground, and causes the water to flow away from the post. As a contractor, I've replaced quite a few fence posts for clients, and in every case, they rot right at ground level. Some are in concrete, a lot where just set in compacted dirt. The dirt is the worse because it settles, or washes away over time, and you end up with a small pond around the base of the post. Water sits there when it rains, and this is what rots out posts. If water cannot sit next to the base of a post, the post does not rot.

Early on, I set some posts in concrete, some in dirt. I've pulled both of those posts with my tractors, and the ones in dirt come out just as easy as a T post. I can pull them out with my smallest tractor just idling. The posts set in concrete are night and day harder to get out. I can only get them out with my full sized backhoe, and the engine has to be revved up to have enough power to get them out!!!! More money, more work, but much, much stronger post that will last a lot longer.

A 12 inch auger isn't really big enough to line up a bunch of posts. Even without trees close by, you never know what you will hit in the ground, or if the auger will just start to angle on you while going down. What might seem like a small variation when drilling the holes will become a huge issue when setting the posts. Buy the biggest, heaviest, strongest clamshell post hole digger that you can find. You will be modifying your posts after drilling the holes if you want to get the fence in a straight line.

I use 4 pt, high tensile barbed wire for my string line. I tried using string, then heavy duty string, and even a small type of rope to pull a straight line. It just doesn't work very well over any sort of distance. Either it breaks, or it doesn't ever get straight. You really notice this when putting posts in and moving it out of the way to get the post in the ground, the putting it back to line everything up, and it's caught on something, or its stretched out and needs tightening again. Barbed wire will stretch a little when doing this, but nothing close to string. I also like having it under my fence to discourage coyotes and hogs from digging under my fence.

In my opinion 1x6 boards are too flimsy and will sag over time. For the most strength, you want your boards to attach to at least 3 posts, so 2x6x16 are the best option. I personally only use screws for every exterior, outdoor project. Nails always pull out over time. For fencing, I like 4 inch deck screws.

I agree with the earlier post that 4 rails is better then 3. When I build my front fence, it will have four rails.

Round posts are cheaper, and they usually have better treatment then 4x6 or 6x6 posts, but they are a lot more work to attach wood rails to, and in my opinion, they don't look as nice as square posts. I also like having 5 1/2 inches to attach each rail to the post.
 
   / Board fence ideas? #46  
I'm currently fencing in about 25 acres for my horses and goats. I'm using 2x4 horse fence that's 48 inches tall. My round wood posts are 100 feet apart or less, and my T posts are every ten feet or less.

When I do the front of my place, along the paved road, I'm going to make it nicer looking with 4x6 wood posts every 8 feet. I will use a 12 inch auger every 8 feet and try to get 3 feet down. Sometimes I just cant get that far, but I do everything that I can to try to get that deep.

Every post will be filled with concrete. I built up the concrete so it's above the surrounding ground, and causes the water to flow away from the post. As a contractor, I've replaced quite a few fence posts for clients, and in every case, they rot right at ground level. Some are in concrete, a lot where just set in compacted dirt. The dirt is the worse because it settles, or washes away over time, and you end up with a small pond around the base of the post. Water sits there when it rains, and this is what rots out posts. If water cannot sit next to the base of a post, the post does not rot.

Early on, I set some posts in concrete, some in dirt. I've pulled both of those posts with my tractors, and the ones in dirt come out just as easy as a T post. I can pull them out with my smallest tractor just idling. The posts set in concrete are night and day harder to get out. I can only get them out with my full sized backhoe, and the engine has to be revved up to have enough power to get them out!!!! More money, more work, but much, much stronger post that will last a lot longer.

A 12 inch auger isn't really big enough to line up a bunch of posts. Even without trees close by, you never know what you will hit in the ground, or if the auger will just start to angle on you while going down. What might seem like a small variation when drilling the holes will become a huge issue when setting the posts. Buy the biggest, heaviest, strongest clamshell post hole digger that you can find. You will be modifying your posts after drilling the holes if you want to get the fence in a straight line.

I use 4 pt, high tensile barbed wire for my string line. I tried using string, then heavy duty string, and even a small type of rope to pull a straight line. It just doesn't work very well over any sort of distance. Either it breaks, or it doesn't ever get straight. You really notice this when putting posts in and moving it out of the way to get the post in the ground, the putting it back to line everything up, and it's caught on something, or its stretched out and needs tightening again. Barbed wire will stretch a little when doing this, but nothing close to string. I also like having it under my fence to discourage coyotes and hogs from digging under my fence.

In my opinion 1x6 boards are too flimsy and will sag over time. For the most strength, you want your boards to attach to at least 3 posts, so 2x6x16 are the best option. I personally only use screws for every exterior, outdoor project. Nails always pull out over time. For fencing, I like 4 inch deck screws.

I agree with the earlier post that 4 rails is better then 3. When I build my front fence, it will have four rails.

Round posts are cheaper, and they usually have better treatment then 4x6 or 6x6 posts, but they are a lot more work to attach wood rails to, and in my opinion, they don't look as nice as square posts. I also like having 5 1/2 inches to attach each rail to the post.
Sounds like a lot of work to me! 😅 Are you running any electric? The goats I had must have been descendants of Houdini, they could figure a way to get out of anything I put them in.
 
   / Board fence ideas? #47  
I have 11 acres in four rows or electric on a 2 joules charger with 3 ground rods. I’ve touched it twice and it feels like the back of my skull just exploded. For year it kept the goats in. But now they have gotten good at getting through it. All of it needs replacing. It’s something that I’ve really grown to dislike.
 
   / Board fence ideas? #48  
I have 11 acres in four rows or electric on a 2 joules charger with 3 ground rods. I’ve touched it twice and it feels like the back of my skull just exploded. For year it kept the goats in. But now they have gotten good at getting through it. All of it needs replacing. It’s something that I’ve really grown to dislike.
Our goats would go under the horse fence and it was only about 4-6 in. off the ground. I ended up running a strand of high tensile wire between the horse fence and the ground. That worked for a while, but they got out eventually.
 
   / Board fence ideas? #49  
You folks are bringing back a lot of memories...some not so good. But, here are some of my construction "tools" for wood plank fencing.

One, a large round dowel, sharpen one end. That's how you mark exactly where the point of your auger will start in the ground. Pre-plan your route and mark each post hole position this way, driving in the dowel to make a cone mark. I did this by myself when younger and you do not want wasted motion by having to finish and dig out the sides of each hole by hand if you are off. I use a 12" auger to have some play in the hole for alignment.

I use a string line, one at the top and one off the ground to align posts. True a post at each end of the run. Watch the wind when doing so. My target was 1/8 of an inch on the "face." Actually less. Yes, you can do that and should take the time for a good looking fence.

Next tool, a bucket of rocks - 3,4,5 inch, whatever you can find. That is how you will firm up and align the post, by using the head of your digger bar to drive the rocks against the posts and into alignment with the string where needed. The head of the digger bar can also be used to convince a post to change position.

Next tool - short chain to put around the post close to the bottom, if needed. Put your digger bar through it and twist the post into position if you need to.

Use a good 4 foot level for everything. Use it on the auger, too. With the point touching the ground, adjust the lift arms to get the auger vertical in one axis. Move the tractor slightly to get vertical in the other axis. You will have to also move the tractor slightly while digging to keep the auger and your holes vertical. I use 30" as a minimum depth, 36" if possible. Mound the top of the dirt against the post above the soil line to shed water when you finish.

I have put in several hundred by myself. Boards too. Just put a screw in the post at the other end a half inch below where you will end up with the bottom of the plank, pull your board up, pin it with a screw, walk to the other end and lift the plank off the helper screw into final position.

I would not fight tree roots if at all possible - they will fight back. Plan ahead and straddle a tree and its roots. You may have to cheat your posts a bit, but no one but you will know... And last...sweep your fence with the earth below it. Don't make sharp angular transitions - they just look bad. And I end a corner run with a large gate post even if there's no gate. Yeah...just looks better. Oh, the new square drive or Torx head screws are great compared to the Phillips I used 35 years ago - 3.5" or 4."

Your wife, beer, and Advil are your friends in these projects.
 
   / Board fence ideas? #50  
I'm currently fencing in about 25 acres for my horses and goats. I'm using 2x4 horse fence that's 48 inches tall. My round wood posts are 100 feet apart or less, and my T posts are every ten feet or less.

When I do the front of my place, along the paved road, I'm going to make it nicer looking with 4x6 wood posts every 8 feet. I will use a 12 inch auger every 8 feet and try to get 3 feet down. Sometimes I just cant get that far, but I do everything that I can to try to get that deep.

Every post will be filled with concrete. I built up the concrete so it's above the surrounding ground, and causes the water to flow away from the post. As a contractor, I've replaced quite a few fence posts for clients, and in every case, they rot right at ground level. Some are in concrete, a lot where just set in compacted dirt. The dirt is the worse because it settles, or washes away over time, and you end up with a small pond around the base of the post. Water sits there when it rains, and this is what rots out posts. If water cannot sit next to the base of a post, the post does not rot.

Early on, I set some posts in concrete, some in dirt. I've pulled both of those posts with my tractors, and the ones in dirt come out just as easy as a T post. I can pull them out with my smallest tractor just idling. The posts set in concrete are night and day harder to get out. I can only get them out with my full sized backhoe, and the engine has to be revved up to have enough power to get them out!!!! More money, more work, but much, much stronger post that will last a lot longer.

A 12 inch auger isn't really big enough to line up a bunch of posts. Even without trees close by, you never know what you will hit in the ground, or if the auger will just start to angle on you while going down. What might seem like a small variation when drilling the holes will become a huge issue when setting the posts. Buy the biggest, heaviest, strongest clamshell post hole digger that you can find. You will be modifying your posts after drilling the holes if you want to get the fence in a straight line.

I use 4 pt, high tensile barbed wire for my string line. I tried using string, then heavy duty string, and even a small type of rope to pull a straight line. It just doesn't work very well over any sort of distance. Either it breaks, or it doesn't ever get straight. You really notice this when putting posts in and moving it out of the way to get the post in the ground, the putting it back to line everything up, and it's caught on something, or its stretched out and needs tightening again. Barbed wire will stretch a little when doing this, but nothing close to string. I also like having it under my fence to discourage coyotes and hogs from digging under my fence.

In my opinion 1x6 boards are too flimsy and will sag over time. For the most strength, you want your boards to attach to at least 3 posts, so 2x6x16 are the best option. I personally only use screws for every exterior, outdoor project. Nails always pull out over time. For fencing, I like 4 inch deck screws.

I agree with the earlier post that 4 rails is better then 3. When I build my front fence, it will have four rails.

Round posts are cheaper, and they usually have better treatment then 4x6 or 6x6 posts, but they are a lot more work to attach wood rails to, and in my opinion, they don't look as nice as square posts. I also like having 5 1/2 inches to attach each rail to the post.
I'm glad that your pressure treated round posts are well treated, but that isn't the case here by a long shot.

I think that your points about keeping the post dry are well taken, and align well with my experience. I've thought about putting tar on the top 18" of the buried post, but haven't gotten there yet.

I really like our electric, though I was just out repairing it. We are currently hosting a semi-wild cow from a neighbor that blasted through four wire barbed with two hots, and through more interior electrified fence. She's still here because the local cowboy sent to get her couldn't get her into our loading corrals. Sigh. He's new. The previous folks were pros.

All the best,

Peter
 

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