Boom bent?

[SPYDERLK]

Having straightened a fair amount of implements, I don't think I've seen many or any that were improved by impact or by beating on them.

What usually works is applying leverage with a long "cheater" in small steps until it is bent back to some usable shape. Because all bending - both the original bend and the repair - stretches the metal, you have to plan how to deal with the fact that any bent metal is never going to go back to it's original location.

Sometimes you have to redrill a hole or offset a bushing or modify a pin. I've more than once had to go over to the unbent side and deliberately bend it to match the repaired side..
Whatever it takes so that the pins end up in the same plane.

The good news is this loader frame isn't all that heavily constructed. The ears look to be fairly easy to move. With some sturdy clamps and long cheaters I think you could improve things.

In the oil field we bent fittings into place using big crescent wrenches that had tapered handles so that they could be inserted into ten foot lengths of pipe. Then one person could bend fairly heavy metal. Your bend looks much easier than that.
rScotty

Hard impact from a hammer smashes the metal, stretching it. Heavy impact, indirectly applied, thru soft steel, aluminum, brass or wood, is not so intense as to stretch the metal. A heavy sledge swung moderately is the preferred force application tool for that method. A reaction mass is needed but must be situated so as to avoid a pinch point.

For metal up to about 3/8" I prefer using 2 crescents in cases where there is enuf flange depth for good purchase. The wrenches are "crossed" , forcing/twisting in opposite directions a little bit at a time on alternating sides to put the metal back in line w/o any overbending. I extend 24" wrenches about 8' or however much needed to bend with a 'delicate' touch to maximize control of the manipulation. I will use ~ 1/2" high strength steel shim to extend and/or widen force application of the wrench jaws where prudent and possible, to help control exact bend points. I will also use softer metal shims ~1/8" in the "stack" to avoid surface damage to the target metal. With the benefit of experience it is often possible to remove slight bends so that you cant tell they were ever there.

Being able to afford the patience is the greatest boon. After all, Perfect being the enemy of good enough is still the friend of Better.