Boom Pole V2.0

[RobJ]

Ok so nothing else to do on a Saturday. Found some 3" pipe and went after it. Top strap is a little higher and thicker(1/2"x3/4"), more support, etc. What do yo uthink RonMar?

I don't want to upgrade to version 3.0. This one is getting heavier. You can also see where I modded the lift arm connection. So my arms should be able to go all the way to the ground. I just sort of hacked in the cut outs but had a little T left over and welded it on for a trailer hitch.

Rob

 

[RonMar]

The boom looks great. You could save a bunch of weight and make a stronger lower frame. Triangles are stronger than rectangles. Your lower frame is basically two rectangles of rectangular box tube placed side by side. All the weight of the boom is being supported by the two horizontal tubes in shear(weakest mode) and they are on their sides which is their thinnest/weakest axis. With some weight on the boom, you can probably see the horizontal pieces bend. You could have a lighter and stronger structure by using 3 pieces of the same tube and make a triangle. One cross tube between the lift arms and two uprights connecting from the end of the cross tube to a point in the middle where the boom attaches. The weight from the boom would be sent down the two triangle uprights in compression(stronger mode than shear) and the spreading force applied at the end of these uprights would be contained by the crossbar in tension(strongest of the modes). Remember triangles are our friends

 

[schmism]

i thought the same exact thing.

something along these lines would have saved weight and been stronger overall.

 

[ovrszd]

Yep, great looking pole though!!! I think now the pole is probably three times as strong as the bracket. I think you'll get it the third time!!! Hahahahaha!!!

 

[mikim]

sounds like you need to tweak it just a bit more Rob -- keep at it -- I'm learning from this and I'd bet so are others - when you get yours all done .... it'll be time to build mine..... errr....ever come to Angleton? ....

 

[ovrszd]

sounds like you need to tweak it just a bit more Rob -- keep at it -- I'm learning from this and I'd bet so are others - when you get yours all done .... it'll be time to build mine..... errr....ever come to Angleton? ....

Yep, I certainly am. I really like the pole design with maybe the exception of the top link tractor end. I think I would maybe use a piece of healthy flatbar welded into the smashed end of the pole with a hole in the bar?? Any other ideas??

 

[schmism]

ya take some flat plate (3/8 or better) cut a slot in the end of the pipe slip the 4x6" plate into the slot and weld it up.

something like

 

[RobJ]

OK YOU GUYS JUST STOP IT!!! (IE...kidding).

It's bad enough when my NOT tractor savy wife comes out and says "you building another boom pole?" I assure you boom pole is NOT something that rolls off her tongue daily.

Ron... Thought about using the triangle but this was just 2 darn easy. the 1x2 tubing is actually 12ga I think, It's not 16ga. In my other test lifts I didn't see any stress here. But I have more tubing and another free Saturday comming up so who knows.

schmism.. Same as Ron, actually I liked the KK (TSC) boom pole because it used a simple piece of angle for the cross piece with welded on links. If this one works out the double as a trailer hitch is a bonus..my current trailer mover is on sort of a utility 4x4x3/8" piece of tubing. I use the tubing to hold a middle buster, cultivators, subsoilers, etc. It much heavier. This is an upgrade.

ovrszd...and then a V4.0, 5.0, ........

mikim... Angelton? From time to time. My parents sold their beachhouse and I'm up in Spring now. But since I've got the welder, bring it up and we'll put something together!! Of course my tractor and all the fun stuff is in east Texas....Elkhart.

ovrszd...#2...Actually the "no top link" design is working out well. And while I was looking around yesterday I noticed that if you have a PTO post hole digger? You have half the boom pole already made. Because the PTO diggers I saw did not use a top link. So in that case all you need is a pole.

schmism...#2 ....call me lazy I guess. Came this close to doing that but didn't feel like getting hotter anymore. With our heat and humidity, cutting and welding is a watersport for a sweater like me. When my son was helping me he asked once "is that sweat?". Yep...sweat was running off the helment in a stream. So I decided enough heat for a day!! I fell asleep watching NASCAR...

Thanks for the comments gentlemen!

Rob

 

[MrJimi]

I like this thread, How much are you trying to lift and at what distance?
I made one and I can lift about 400 pounds straight and 10 feet out horizontal and I want more, like we all do. With a total height of around 19 feet counting the arms
Pictures in gallery here, link below
Jim

 

[mikim]

Of course my tractor and all the fun stuff is in east Texas....
Like me -- all my fun stuff is 3 hrs away in Bastrop county...if I do anything at home I don't get to see if it works til the next weekend I go up. Then if I need to modify - take it home, modify, and wait for the next trip....... makes for some long projects. Tools are at home, tractor & equipment in the country. Now that I'm getting a barn - maybe I'll start leaving tools there.

 

[ovrszd]

ya take some flat plate (3/8 or better) cut a slot in the end of the pipe slip the 4x6" plate into the slot and weld it up.

something like

Yeah, that's the ticket!!! As for using his existing boxed bracket, simply add a triangle inside of it and it'll be bull strong without having to rebuild the whole thing and it'll still have the hitch capability.

As for the post hole digger, I've watched my Dad use the boom of the post hole digger many times to lift equipment. Just bore the auger in the ground a couple turns and then pull the long pin that pins the gearbox to the boom. He always used it to move and set heavy hedge corner posts when fencing.

 

[RobJ]

I like this thread, How much are you trying to lift and at what distance?
I made one and I can lift about 400 pounds straight and 10 feet out horizontal and I want more, like we all do. With a total height of around 19 feet counting the arms
Pictures in gallery here, link below
Jim

525# tops...into the back of a pickup if needed.

 

[RobJ]

Of course my tractor and all the fun stuff is in east Texas....
Like me -- all my fun stuff is 3 hrs away in Bastrop county...if I do anything at home I don't get to see if it works til the next weekend I go up. Then if I need to modify - take it home, modify, and wait for the next trip....... makes for some long projects. Tools are at home, tractor & equipment in the country. Now that I'm getting a barn - maybe I'll start leaving tools there.

I get to bring the tractor home every now and then, parades on the 4th, mowing around the clubhouse, etc. You see if the tractor is home, her truck is outside!! Not good, even with a 3 car garage. But yes I do all my planning and fabbing during the week or the off weekends. I don't mind assembly and testing when I get up there but would NOT like to spend the day building my boom pole up there. to many other fun things to do, fishing, atving, tractoring, fining others stuff.

My home away from home...hand built by us. http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/elkhart/

 

[JRP]

Well, now for the next revision suggestion. First, the problem:

1. When you go to lift something you need a chain. It is too long, it has the wrong type of end on it, or it is somewhere else. Then when you get it, after you hook it and bump the chain gravity makes one of the hooks come off. Just you wait and see how many times it will happen. Also, count the chains that fall off, and the chains that you never find because you were not looking back when they fell off. .

After it has happened a bunch of times make one of these:

It has a 3/8 grab hook for use with your chain. It has a 3' piece of chain with a slip and grab hook that is captive in a keyhole slot cut in the plate. It also has holes drilled that fit my small and big shackels.

When you are done, you will always have an easy place to attach your chain, and the short chain. Note that the captive chain can be adjusted in the keyhole slot to quickly take out the slack. Also note the 3/8 hook hidden between the braces. The 2" reciever is for a stinger that lets be lift a lighter load very high.

Using the hook between the braces I can lift the front on my M6800 off the ground, when it has a loader attached. With the hook on the end I can lift 1000 pounds. I think the stinger could lift about 400 pounds.

Have fun with your projects. For me lately the projects are as much fun as using the tractor.

JRP

 

[ovrszd]

Well, now for the next revision suggestion. First, the problem:

1. When you go to lift something you need a chain. It is too long, it has the wrong type of end on it, or it is somewhere else. Then when you get it, after you hook it and bump the chain gravity makes one of the hooks come off. Just you wait and see how many times it will happen. Also, count the chains that fall off, and the chains that you never find because you were not looking back when they fell off. .

After it has happened a bunch of times make one of these:

It has a 3/8 grab hook for use with your chain. It has a 3' piece of chain with a slip and grab hook that is captive in a keyhole slot cut in the plate. It also has holes drilled that fit my small and big shackels.

When you are done, you will always have an easy place to attach your chain, and the short chain. Note that the captive chain can be adjusted in the keyhole slot to quickly take out the slack. Also note the 3/8 hook hidden between the braces. The 2" reciever is for a stinger that lets be lift a lighter load very high.

Using the hook between the braces I can lift the front on my M6800 off the ground, when it has a loader attached. With the hook on the end I can lift 1000 pounds. I think the stinger could lift about 400 pounds.

Have fun with your projects. For me lately the projects are as much fun as using the tractor.

JRP

Thanks for the great post and pictures. I just added them to my "gotta build this" file. A very versatile boom pole indeed!!!

 

[AMP762]

Just a question,is there a differance in leverage between a boom as yours or one which uses a top link.

 

[JRP]

Just a question,is there a differance in leverage between a boom as yours or one which uses a top link.

Great question.
I think the top link design is good because a small amount of movement for the lift arm makes a greater movement at the boom tip. This gives more lift movement but less lift weight capacity. This is good if you do not have a hydraulic top link and a quick hitch such as Speeco.

The type in my photo just drops into my Speeco quick hitch. It takes 10 seconds to install, with no pins to clip or top link to remove. I have a hydraulic top link so that gives more lift range because the top link also makes it raise. Spencer (I think) made an adapter that converts the Bobtatch on the front of his loader to Speeco quick hitch. I made one too. With the adapter I can quickly put the boom pole on the front of the loader and lift from the ground to about 14'. The use of the boom pole on a Category I quick hitch is the reason I chose the design in my photo.

A Speeco or I-Match quick hitch is something that should come with every tractor. Like air conditioning in the heat, once you have one you will never want to be without it it.

 

[mikim]

My home away from home
Rob - OK you've impressed me! I took a look at angelfire. You did the majority of all that in a years time -- I'm assuming just on weekends & vacation time -- I can't seem to get much of anything done per weekend so I've kinda put off doing much til I retire - 41 months (but who's counting) .... wish I were doing this move to the country 15 years ago as a younger fella ... things just take longer now than they used to. ....btw -- your kids will remember all this work too - be sure to get them involved. Mine will never forget all the brush dragging they did when they were 9-12 yrs old and we were clearing brush & trees to make a place for ourselves on my first 5 acres. That was 25 years ago - now I'm doing it again and they want to help the old man (reliving their childhood I guess) or ---- they're afraid I'll hurt myself doing hard labor at such an advanced age (57) 'course I now have tractor help

 

[RonMar]

Just a question,is there a differance in leverage between a boom as yours or one which uses a top link.

JRP pretty much summed it up. The type that uses a toplink only has the same vertical movement at the end of the boom pole that the lift arms have since the whole boom assembly stays at whatever angle it is set with the toplink length like a 3PH impliment does, while the lift arms go up and down. The type Robj built that connects up in place of the toplink has a mechanical ratio of movement so the tip of the boom moves vertically a greater distance than the lift arms do. This ratio can be varied by the point where the "A" frame attaches to the boom. Move the attach point closer to the tractor and the boom tip movement is greater but the lifting capacity decreases. Move it farther away and the tip moves less but can lift more.

 

[ovrszd]

JRP pretty much summed it up. The type that uses a toplink only has the same vertical movement at the end of the boom pole that the lift arms have since the whole boom assembly stays at whatever angle it is set with the toplink length like a 3PH impliment does, while the lift arms go up and down. The type Robj built that connects up in place of the toplink has a mechanical ratio of movement so the tip of the boom moves vertically a greater distance than the lift arms do. This ratio can be varied by the point where the "A" frame attaches to the boom. Move the attach point closer to the tractor and the boom tip movement is greater but the lifting capacity decreases. Move it farther away and the tip moves less but can lift more.

Excellent description. I've seen them built with a piece of flatbar welded on edge under the boom with multiple holes in it. The "A" frame connect point on the boom could then be adjusted depending on what the objective was.