box blade advice

[KJN128]

i need some honest factual or best someone that has some experience with this. i have a L3010 with r4 a 5 ft box blade is too short for the tires i want ed to get a 66" blade the dlr tells me the price diff between the 66 and 72 or minimal , the money is not the issue here im wondering will that 3010 pull a 6' box blade with ease,, the 66" would wrk with the tires the dlr says the 6' will wrk as well ,, is this correct and will any problems arrise from a 6' box blade

thanks

 

[Kodiak]

This question regarding the L3010 and 6' box blades have been asked several times this summer. It appears the general consencus is that the L3010 doesn't have any problem with a 6' BB. I'm running a 6' BB on my TC29, with R4's, ( similar in size and pwer to the L3010) without any problems. This gives me about 5" past each rear tire. Should be about the same for the L3010.

 

[KJN128]

thanks for the reply the dlr wants to sell me a 6' woods gb72 it weights in at 572 lbs,, thanks agin for the info..

 

[John_Mc]

L3010 will do a fine job with the Woods GB72 box blade. I have the same box blade with my NH TC33D (Loaded R4 tires) and have had no complaints. You may want to look at loading your rear tires or adding wheel weights if you find yourself "traction challenged".

What kind of work will you be doing? I've found maintaining gravel roads to be a breeze... could get by without loaded tires. Other applications, I'm glad I've got the extra weight.

John Mc.

 

[john_bud]

KJN,

I would NOT go for the 72" box blade. My L3410 can get bogged down with the Gannon H-120 low back box I use. It is a heavier unit than you are looking at, but the extra dirt a 72" can hold and an extra scar bar or two will make quite a difference, especially in tough dirt.

John Bud

 

[John_Mc]

KJN128 -

After reading John Bud's reply, I have to admit that I can sink my box blade deep enough to bog my TC33D down, especially when I'm using the scarifiers.

However, I'd rather just adjust the toplink for a less agressive bite (ain't hydraulic Top-'N-Tilt wonderful?) than settle for a blade that does not cover my tracks with a bit to spare. There are a few 66" box blades around, but that comes too close to the width of my rear wheels (w/R4 tires) for me to be satisfied with it. The 72" has proven useful to me (at least in my soil conditions here in Vermont) for what I'm doing.

John Mc

 

[KJN128]

thanks for the reply john le t me ask you this do you have a hydralic top link and if soo how much did it cost you ilooked into it and it was close to 800 for the thing let me know ok

 

[john_bud]

Ahhh Hydraulic Toplink......

That must be what heaven is like!

Too bad i ain't got one /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

John Bud

 

[Turfman]

A hydraulic top link would be heaven. My knees are worn out from getting on and off to adjust the two links. I'm saving for one, if I can find one.

 

[karmakanic]

I have a Gannon 66" box blade on a L35. I guess the Gannon is a lot heavier then other boxes because I guarantee you there is no way the L35 will handle anything larger.

The 66" box also matches the width of the tires very closely, which I like for two reasons. One, you don't have to worry as much about hanging the box on a fench post or other obstruction; if your tires clear, then the box will also. And second, when the box is only as wide as the tires it doesn't dig in as bad when you have the box tilted.

I had a box larger then the rear tires on my last tractor and I found it to be a pain.

Dave Perry

 

[JRP]

If you already have a hydraulic remote, and you have a welder a hydraulic top link is a pretty easy project.

Get a new cylinder, hoses, and QD fittings, and two swivel ends that have a CAT 1 top link size pin holes. Tractor Supply Co. I think the pin holes are 3/4".

Cut off the end of the rod and weld on a cat I top link swivel end.

The other end needs an adapter. A piece of steel that’s cut to fit into and is pined into the cylinder fixed end. I cut a 1/4" plywood template first, then transferred it to steel. Us a quality 1" hole saw for the pin bore if you can't afford or don't have access to a twist drill bit. Weld another swivel to the adapter.

Mine cost about $120 in materials. My first project.

Photo.

Jim Poux

 

[John_Mc]

KJN128 - Yes, I do have a hydraulic toplink, as well as a hydraulic side link. If I recall, the whole thing cost me $1300 or so. I did not already have the rear remote hookups, so that price is for them as well as the cylinders, hoses, etc. and installation by my dealer. (The rear remotes have quick-disconnects on them, so I can hook up other things besides the Top-'N-Tilt... not that I own anything else to hook up to them... yet) I use the box blade a lot, so it was worth it for me to get this stuff installed. For more occasional use, I probably would have stayed with the manual stuff.

If you do get one installed, I'd consider doing two. It probably will not be twice as much, since a lot of the labor is not duplicated. If you only get one, the toplink is the most important, IMO. If you do get the sidelink as well, keep your old adjustable mechanical link. I had the hydraulic link put on the same side as the controls (makes it easier to operate the controls while you are turned to see what is going on with the link). At the recommendation of several people here on TBN, I put the old adjustable link on the other side to give me a greater range of adjust ment.

John Mc

PS When you get a chance, please consider filling in some of your bio information on the "control panel" page. It makes it easier for folks to tailor advice to your equipment and uses if they can refer to it.

 

[KJN128]

cool what size cylinder did you use

 

[DK35vince]

KJN128,
I made a hydrualic top cylinder with a 2 1/2" tie rod cylinder.Around $65 for the cylinder,$30 hoses,$30 for set of 2 - 1/2" quick couplers.
I had a bent top link that I cut the ends off of and welded to the hydraulic cylinder.