Box Scraper box blade, landscape rake, or rear blade

[greenxblue]

I'm definitely going to get more implements in the future. But since I bought the tractor and MX5, I can only afford one more implement this year. The plan is to allow myself 1 new attachment per year so that I can afford it better. I could either have bought a smaller tractor with more implements upfront, or the 3520 and add implements over time. My dealer said I wouldn't get a discount for buying several implements at a time so I'll just wait. I made sure to order the tractor so that it's set up for all my future envisioned projects though.

One thing I neglected to mention (newbie mistake) is that my property has some slopes and hills. The front 5 acres and the drive are fairly flat but there's one slope (around 10-15 degrees) near the house. The back 6 acres are hilly but I'm not going to do anything with the back except cut it with the MX5. I'll have to move whatever implement I get for leveling up near the house up and down that one slope though.

I liked the Land Pride GS1572 Grading Scraper because it has teeth and looks like a combination of the Frontier LP1172 land plane and the Frontier BB2172 box blade. They're all similar weight too, around 550-575 lbs. But I do have iMatch on my tractor so would the JD implements work better with my setup?

The implement I plan to buy next year is the 300cx FEL. I know that the box blade can be used as a ballast box for the FEL. Can the grading scraper or land plane be used the same way?

Thanks again,
Michele (not Michael )

 

[wedge40]

I wouldn't worry about messing your drive up too much as long as it's established already. Meaning the gravel has been down and settle for a few years. If you worried wait till you hit a dry spell and thing are pretty hard. Then you can only make small changes. I've tried to do my drive when it was wet and it was easier to scrape, but I had more material in the box that I had level back out. Once I get box full I will do one of two things, keep dragging it untill I get so an area that needs material or I'll lift the 3pt just a little and let it smooth out.
Attachment for tractors are a lot like computers. You have to work really hard to screw things up BAD.

Wedge

 

[dangerdoc]

Well, I have about 850 ft of gravel driveway to deal with. The landscape rake has been the best attachment for dealing with it. It doesn't remove the gravel like a rear blade, just kinda spreads it around and smooths out the road. The blade and box grader do have their place for landscaping and "tool of ignorance" work...The FEL is a godsend for this kind of mainenance as well.

Was going to buy a plow for the BX for snow removal, but the wife said no, so I bought an RTV500 with a snowplow instead...She's happy and I'm happy

I have all three impliments. Over the years, I have learned to do a pretty good job on the drive with any of the three.

My favorite is the rear blade, run it forwards to move material and crown the road, turn it backwards and it spreads and lifts the rock like the rake.

The box blade seems to work a little better in the spring to undo the ravages of the winter. The rake seems to work better in the heat of the summer when I'm just wanting to freshen up the drive a little.

 

[jenkinsph]

I have a 7' landscape rake, 7' boxblade, 7' rearblade and 8' landplane if I wanted to touchup a driveway I would use the landplane everytime.

If I needed to shape the ground or move a lot if material then the top and tilt hitch with boxblade and fel would be used first.

The rear blade and top and tilt are great for dressing up a ditch bank but I don't have that problem very often.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I know that the box blade can be used as a ballast box for the FEL. Can the grading scraper or land plane be used the same way?
Thanks again,
Michele (not Michael )

Anything that hangs on the 3pt is a counter weight. The scraper would work well for you.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Because of the three implements he asked about:
1) it can retain the material it cuts as opposed to the other two implements where the cut material will run out the end
2) it leaves a smooth base surface

I have found that a rear blade works best for me to to get a crown on the road. I want the dirt to roll under and off towards the end of the blade and onto the center of the road. Is that not how road graders work?

Don't get me wrong, box blades are great, it might even be the best implement that greenxblue should be getting at this time. ( a more universal implement) But I can not remember reading anywhere that a box blade was the implement of choice to create a crown in a road. I have all four of the implements that have been discussed in this thread, and for me, the quickest and easiest way to get a crown in a road is to use my rear blade. This is not to say that a box blade won't work, it will, just seems to me that the better implement for making a crown is a rear blade.

Again, just my opinion and what works for me.

 

[TUG HILL ADDICT]

I have found that a rear blade works best for me to to get a crown on the road. I want the dirt to roll under and off towards the end of the blade and onto the center of the road. Is that not how road graders work?

Don't get me wrong, box blades are great, it might even be the best implement that greenxblue should be getting at this time. ( a more universal implement) But I can not remember reading anywhere that a box blade was the implement of choice to create a crown in a road. I have all four of the implements that have been discussed in this thread, and for me, the quickest and easiest way to get a crown in a road is to use my rear blade. This is not to say that a box blade won't work, it will, just seems to me that the better implement for making a crown is a rear blade.

Again, just my opinion and what works for me.

Could be the soil Im working in...I find the rear blade too light...doesn't cut adequately compared to the BB

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Could be the soil Im working in...I find the rear blade too light...doesn't cut adequately compared to the BB

Very well might be the problem, My Land Pride RB45108 weighs in at 1166lbs. It works day and night difference compared to my previous MidWest rear blade that was around 600lbs.

Tug, the JD with the tracks, is that your work machine?

 

[TUG HILL ADDICT]

Very well might be the problem, My Land Pride RB45108 weighs in at 1166lbs. It works day and night difference compared to my previous MidWest rear blade that was around 600lbs.

Tug, the JD with the tracks, is that your work machine?

Yup it's a weight issue.

The JD 7430 is owned by a snowmobile club that I belong to...I and 15 other members operate it and a Pisten Bully Trail Edge grooming over 100 miles of trails in the Tug Hill area

 

[mrutkaus]

Just got a TSC Farm Force 5' box blade yesterday, mostly because of recommendations by experts in this forum. Ran it up and down my 1800' gravel driveway without the rippers down, tilted almost level, slightly forward.

Beautiful! Took no skill whatsoever. Leveled everything out, looks like an estate drive now! It's great how it has almost some built in intelligence in that it carries gravel to where it is needed and takes it from where it is not needed.

My advice from 2 hrs experience: IT'S ALL IN THE TILT!. That is the slight difference in the levelness of the box blade when it is down, whether tilted slightly forward, level, or backward (which i haven't tried yet) is the key.

I had previously crowned needed portions of the driveway with the rear blade, and this latest going over with the box blade was light enough so that the crowns remain.

The powder coated TSC finish is very nice, a far cry from the KK paint.

Mike