Box blade, roll over box blade, or land leveler????????

[jenkinsph]

I thought you'd never ask
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The axle frame is attached to the box blade with pivot bolts and zerk provision for later addition of a hydraulic cylinder lift similar to most "soil movers". My thinking was that a tongue might be added at a later date if the rigid axle setup didn't work out and then the cylinder would do the raising and lowering of the blade. The tongue would, of course, convert the tool to pull-type rather than 3PH mount.
I doubt that change will ever be made as the box blade works so well as currently configured. The 3PH mount makes it much easier to maneuver in tight places.
I had built a setup similar to this with a tongue about twenty years ago and it worked great for leveling also. I pulled the box blade with a ball on the 3PH and used the 3PH to raise and lower. That eliminates the need for a cylinder on the rear.

I have been working on drawings to add rear wheels to a Gannon box blade. I was also working with 20x10 10 smooth tires and using these with custom caster assemblies. Curious what size tires and wheels you have and the load ratings of these tires in the pictures?

 

[jenkinsph]

see attached picture.

the further the distance between wheels, and "what ever is in the middle". the bigger area you can smooth out more easily. without the need of any sort of crazy GPS / laser guidance system.

motor graders (see link) http://www.machinerytrader.com/drilldown/category.aspx?catid=1048&etid=1
the whole idea behind motor graders = the overall distance as well between tires and the implement they have attached in the center.

QUOTE]

I agree that a long wheel base makes smoothing easier. Laser with machine control and guidance is much better for leveling or grading to specific slopes.

 

[npalen]

I have been working on drawings to add rear wheels to a Gannon box blade. I was also working with 20x10 10 smooth tires and using these with custom caster assemblies. Curious what size tires and wheels you have and the load ratings of these tires in the pictures?

The tires are 1120 lb load rating at 30 psi and are 20"+ on the outside diameter and about 6" width. These are the 5-bolt hubs I'm using with 1" bearings on the spindle.
Ultra-Tow High Speed Hub — 5 on 4 1/2in., 1250-Lb. Capacity, Single | Hubs| Northern Tool + Equipment
I've found it important to keep plenty of psi in them to hold firm when the blade starts to "bite" in firm soil (aka "hard dirt") It's amazing how the blade cutting depth can be controlled well enough along with the weight of the box blade to skim turf leaving bare soil.
I agree that a longer distance from the tractor tires to the blade adds to depth control and leveling but I'm not so sure that the distance from the blade to the gauge wheel tires behind is important for leveling. In fact the closer they are behind the blade the more precisely cutting depth changes can be made.
The road grader mentioned above is a good example but I think that the only reason for distance between the blade and REAR wheels is clearance for the blade as it is rotated. I can see the distance between the grader's front wheels and the blade as being very important as the front wheels are on rough undulating ground. The grader's rear wheels. or the gauge wheels in the case of the box blade, are riding on smooth freshly graded ground so don't effect the cutting depth nearly as much. Granted the working conditions make a difference in how any arrangement performs.
I've been tempted to put a long pull type tongue on the front of the box blade but it performs so well as is that I dont' think I would be happy with the change.
These are my thoughts but I'm by no means an expert.

Then you could drop the 3pt lever all the way and control the cutting height of the blade by extending/retracting the top link.

That's the way I've been controlling cutting depth and it really works great.

 

[jenkinsph]

npalen,
Thanks for the tire information, the ones I have found have a similar rating and I have concerns that I need a higher load rating. The 20 10.00 /10" smooth tread tires would provide high floatation and minimal tracking though. My design is for separate caster wheel assemblies with self leveling casters. This should allow me to get closer to the fences and banks in 3ph mode. Then drop a tongue down and lock the caster wheels straight for towing and tight tolerance finish work. Both methods would use dual machine control and laser to maintain the grade.

 

[jenkinsph]

Here are some simple drawings of the caster assemblies. I have worked out the cylinder stroke and geometry to allow for about 11" above and below the blade. Keeping the caster pivots plumb should help with smooth tracking. These caster assemblies can be pinned on for removal and attachment as needed. I do have a drawing for the fold down tongue which when folded up makes the Gannon IMatch compatible too.

 

[bcp]

see attached picture.

But-but-but what about the 3rd alternative, like most wheeled scrapers?





The third alternative will move the blade up and down much less than the first very long design when the tractor runs over rough ground. However, it will not find very slight long interval dips and rises like the first will. Third is better for smoothing, first is better for leveling.

Bruce

 

[jenkinsph]

But-but-but what about the 3rd alternative, like most wheeled scrapers?

View attachment 433570

View attachment 433568

The third alternative will move the blade up and down much less than the first very long design when the tractor runs over rough ground. However, it will not find very slight long interval dips and rises like the first will. Third is better for smoothing, first is better for leveling.

Bruce

edit to add, smoothing and or averaging is different from leveling, a purpose built grader with the correct operator inputs can do a good job of leveling, smoothing and grading in general. It will average out the highs and lows much better than a short tractor and 3pt box blade. Motor graders with machine control are the cat's meow.

I bought a Cammond AP8 (similar to the one pictured) two weeks ago but haven't picked it up yet. The drag scrapers work great where you have room to use them. I find it is similar to using a pull type mower or 3ph mower as both types have their own benefits.

When you combine a laser with machine control the drag scraper does a great job. Corrections are very quick with the right set up.

At any rate here is another drawing with the caster/wheel raised.

 

[npalen]

jenkinsph---
Very interesting project that you're working on. Thanks for sharing the drawings.
What is the reason for the castering action on the wheels? To allow angling of the blade?

 

[npalen]

But-but-but what about the 3rd alternative, like most wheeled scrapers?

View attachment 433570

View attachment 433568

The third alternative will move the blade up and down much less than the first very long design when the tractor runs over rough ground. However, it will not find very slight long interval dips and rises like the first will. Third is better for smoothing, first is better for leveling.

Bruce

The A and B distances in the drawing are somewhat dictated by the scale of the leveling or smoothing project. Smoothing a 100 acre field probably dictates much larger A & B dimensions than smoothing the average size lawn. Some of the planes used for leveling fields for flood irrigation, for example, have these dimensions in the 20, 30 and even 40 ft. range.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79AEujkhV5Y

 

[bcp]

I spent most of my farm time in flood or furrow irrigated territory, and some of the land planes were so large they had to be dismantled to be moved on the highway.

Most all replaced by laser equipment now.

Bruce