Grading Box blade tricks on a BX

[chucko]

Ok I have used box blades on full size tractors and never had too much problem setting the at the correct height to level a drive or whatever but I and sure having problems with my 42” land pride behind my bx1800 and was hoping that you guys had some hints / tricks that could help me.
Seems if I set it all the way down that raise the 3 pt to were it just touches the ground and start to move the tractor because of the short wheel base of the tractor the blade will dig deep as soon as the tractor moves or will come right up off the ground as the from wheels go in even the smallest of dips. Would I be better to let it float on the back blade and adjust the top link so the back blade hits first and leaves the front blade ½ inch or so off the ground. Or do I have to move very slow and just keep denking up and down on the 3 pt. They problem I have always found with moving slow is traction

 

[RET]

Had same problem with 42 inch box on my bx2200. Tried numerous 'tricks' as suggested on this forum. Never have learned the 'art' of boxing yet.
So,
Here's my easy 3 step solution:
Step 1: Install box on 3ph.
Step 2: Turn tractor around, use box as counter weight, and do grading work with FEL.
Step 3: But box blade back where you got it when finished. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RonR]

Hey that's good.

I also have better results using the bucket and not the box blade......... And I do use the box blade for a counterweight.

Ron

 

[chucko]

Well I don't have a loader so I need to learn the blade for now......guess I will go find a sandy field and see how much damage I can do

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Would I be better to let it float on the back blade and adjust the top link so the back blade hits first and leaves the front blade ½ inch or so off the ground. )</font>

Letting it float is what I consider the best method. Of course, sometimes that requires rather frequent changes in the length of the top link, which is the main reason I liked the hydraulic top 'n tilt so much.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> Seems if I set it all the way down that raise the 3 pt to were it just touches the ground and start to move the tractor because of the short wheel base of the tractor the blade will dig deep as soon as the tractor moves or will come right up off the ground as the from wheels go in even the smallest of dips. </font>

chucko,

At first it did not register...in my mind, but now I see what you are asking. I think I have been doing what Bird has done, so I may be repeating what he said, but here goes anyway.

Also, I am a self-taught box blade user...thanks to all the advice I have read here at tbn. This works for me, for what that is worth... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If the box blade digs in deep, my guess is that it is angled too far forward. I would lenghten the top link to make it dig in less if it were me.

I generally lower the 3ph the whole way and let the box blade do its own thing as I pull it. The linkage then moves as the tractor front moves up and down, but the tractor does not lift the box, and simply pulls it.

The top link sets the angle of the box. If the box is too aggressive, when going forward, I lenghten the top link. If it is not aggressive enough, I shorten the top link. It takes a little practice to get it right. Guess why a top & tilt is on my wish list?

I don't think I have ever had a set up that worked in both directions. Extra weight in the form of concrete blocks on top of the box blade also seems to help for some reason. Probably because the weight makes the box cut well at a lesser cutting blade angle...

Now I have not used the box on my BX2200, only on my B2910. I don't know if there would be any difference with the smaller tractor or not.

Hope we hear more from other BX boxblade users...

 

[edney]

I have the same problem on my bx2200 with a 48inch box. I agree that changing the top link angle makes a difference and as you say that is a big help. I was wondering if the hydaulic top link wold help make that easier so it sounds like from your experience it would be worht looking into.
I think the problem is made worse because the 3ph is not "positional" On full size tractors I have used with positional 3ph it is much easier to move the implement to compensate when thefront wheels go over bumps or dips or if the box starts to dig in too much.
I also have used boxes that have a live or free swinging rear blade/gate. That seems to improve the ability to smooth things out going forwand since it sort of acts like a back blade.
Like someone else suggested I often use the box to drag a bunch of material to the approximate place then do final smoothing with the fel.

 

[chucko]

ok I think I got it.....3 pt all the way down and
assuming I am pulling and not pushing
a. front of blade up (long top link) to dig very little
b front of blade down (short top link) to dig deep

and the sweep spot is somewere in between the two


thanks guy

 

[chucko]

Wow adjusting the blade the correct way sure helps....Thanks guys...
Now I have to firgue out how to get my 3pt to life the blade higher so when I have the top link adjust out that they back of the blade can come up more than 3 inches

 

[44trxfun]

Hey Chucko, sounds like you're on the right track. I too have struggled (and cursed) adjusting rear implements on the similar sized MF GC2300. I think you/we are experiencing the "limited" part of the "limited Category I capability" that's used to describe tractors of this size.

Personally, I think this is a pretty big deal. I remember asking the dealers specifically about what that meant, and never really did get a good answer. I think maybe because the dealers sell 'em, but don't really use 'em, they don't fully understand the limitation. I've lamented a bit that I didn't fully comprehend what a pain in the butt lack of position control can be (my own fault), but I think that, combined with limited lift / height on rear implements is really the crux of "limited Class I".

For future buyers, this is really something to consider and discuss with users and dealers, in my opinion. Good luck with your project Chucko. Keep us posted...inquiring minds want to know!

 

[chucko]

I found a post that talked about drilling some more hole up higher on the arms and moving the pens up....
Well I just talked to the dealer and he seems to think the 3 pt will go "a little" higher if I drop my MMM deck..


wait I just had a thought (yea it hurt too) on the right side the arm had a turn buckle to level (see attachment) whatever you have hooked up..... What if someone was to but the same arm on the left side?

 

[chucko]

Now you guys see what kubota do to people i am now talking to myself. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Turn buckle is only about 25 bucks but. if I put one on the left side also and turn both up....will this in turn change the angle of the blade foring my to adjust the top link out more...Then putting me back where I started?

 

[Rimmer]

"...sure having problems with my 42" land pride [box blade] behind my bx1800 and was hoping that you guys had some hints / tricks that could help me...."

Dig around under the seat and find the "feedback rod." That's the rod (approx. 6mm diameter) with two springs on it. Adjust the position of the locking device (10mm wrench required) so that the hydraulic control lever kicks back to neutral when the 3ph drops to the desired height. It's a trial and error process, but will let you drop the blade to the same position every time, and beats having to fiddle with the hydraulic lever while you drive, while at the same time watching the blade, watching where you are going, etc.

(NB: be sure to adjust the "locker" and not the 12mm nut and jam nut at the end of the rod -- those adjust the high limit kickout.)

On my first effort with my new 48" Midwest BB spreading gravel, I found that after a bit of practice I could pretty well tell what the blade was doing just by ear. I doubt if that would work with dirt, though -- it doesn't make that nice "crunchy" sound.

 

[BXMMCC]

It's too late now, but if you wind up getting more implements for your BX, you might consider looking at stuff that was built expressly for sub compact tractors. I have a BX2200 and I found that the Woods Estate Series implements work well with the BX. I have their backblade and rake; the reason I got their blade was because I was concerned about how high it would lift. Other manufacturers sell stuff for subcompacts - I hear that KK has a line, and those that say for CAT 0/1, I guess.

 

[edney]

I really agree with this suggestion. I purchased a "regular" 3ph blade and could only get it off the ground a little ways with the top link clear in. Also when I tried to pivot it the blade hit the lift arms. I took it back and got the woods estate series RBC60 and it is a hugh improvemnt. The geometry is correct. It lifts high, easily pivots to reverse position. Other nice feature is be cause the top link connection is higher up you have to extend the link about half way for normal work. This gives you the ability to adjust the link in or out to change how agressively the blade cuts. I assume their box blade is also this same geometry for compact tractors.