Hello, I was reading allot about box blades on here. It seems there well liked. I have never been around one or used one. I work for a municipality and am required to maintain several miles of crusted rock alleys and several blocks of gravel streets. We have a old Adams 8' pull type grader on steel wheels I have been using. Do box blades work good for fine grading? Will they penetrate hard crushed rock and gravel uniformly? How well do the rippers work? Are the units that fleet and farm stores sell good? advantage over a regular blade? looks like 60" and 72" box units are in the 3-400$ range at these places. I'm not looking to replace what the pull type does I need the lateral tilt to maintain crowns. But would like something easier to use when I get a just few pot holes in some areas rather than drag the noisy, clumsy pull type around every few days. I would be using it on a B7610 kubota. Thanks
Box blade use?
- Thread starter Suess
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I'm not sure you'd be able to use more than the 60" box on the B7610, 72" may be too large.
The rippers may have a difficult time penetrating hard crushed rock and gravel "uniformly", but the once broken up, the back blade should smooth it just fine. You'd be simply breaking into the build up and spreading it into the depression. A box blade should work fine for that. You may, at times, require a little extra weight added to help it dig in, but if you have the top link adjusted properly for the amount of aggressiveness you need, you may not have to add the weight.
If extra weight is needed, it's not hard to tie on some scrap metal, or, I have even used concrete blocks tied on. John
The rippers may have a difficult time penetrating hard crushed rock and gravel "uniformly", but the once broken up, the back blade should smooth it just fine. You'd be simply breaking into the build up and spreading it into the depression. A box blade should work fine for that. You may, at times, require a little extra weight added to help it dig in, but if you have the top link adjusted properly for the amount of aggressiveness you need, you may not have to add the weight.
If extra weight is needed, it's not hard to tie on some scrap metal, or, I have even used concrete blocks tied on. John
8561
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- Kubota B2410 Bi-Speed Turn, R4's, Top 'N' Tilt, LA 352 Loader w/ Toothbar
John's post above offers you a lot of ggod advice. I have the same basic tractor you are talking about and us a heavy duty 60" (541 lbs) box blade with success. Get the heaviest 60 inch you can find.
Thanks for the replys. They pull pretty hard? I'll probably look around for a heavy 60" depending on cost. We do pull the pull type with the 7610, works good for general gradeing but the tractor can spin out if you really cut hard which is usially not required. When it is we have a 5120 case IH we use. Really hard to turn around in the dead ends with that though. The kubota turns right around in the tight spots.
Buck
Platinum Member
Like many others have reported achieving a level surface with a Box Blade is not as easy as it seems. Level and smooth are two different things.
For example: The box is attached to the tractor. If the front of the tractor goes into a dip, the back of the tractor goes upward transferring the inverse of the contour of the front to the back.
That is why having the system that you currently have is good—smoothing or leveling is not a function of where the tractor is—it is solely a function of where your implement is because your implement has its own wheels.
P.S. I have a heavy Woods Box (GB 65?). I pretty sure its ~600lbs.
For example: The box is attached to the tractor. If the front of the tractor goes into a dip, the back of the tractor goes upward transferring the inverse of the contour of the front to the back.
That is why having the system that you currently have is good—smoothing or leveling is not a function of where the tractor is—it is solely a function of where your implement is because your implement has its own wheels.
P.S. I have a heavy Woods Box (GB 65?). I pretty sure its ~600lbs.
