Box blade using quick hitch

[dwalk19]

I have the harbor freight quick hitch, i extended the hook out but i was curious do you guys use the quick hitch with every attachment that you can hook up to it, i was curious if any issues if i were to use it with my box blade, i dont see wjy their would be, i juat got new tractor with a hyd. top link and am working on a side link, so loking forward to trying it out

 

[AWSubie]

My harbor freight quick hitch is too narrow for my 6 foot box blade. I just use it on my 2N for the brush hog and even though its used for just one implement it is still worth the money when it comes time for taking the brush hog on and off.

 

[KYErik]

I leave it on my little Cat 1 Ford and use it for almost all of my Cat 1 equipment. Some of my attachments had the top link hole directly above the framework so for one, I welded on some ears to either side of the top link attachment point. For the others, I use a wishbone shaped quick hitch adapter that I bought at a Rural King. Like you, I extended the top hook out about 1.25 inches. It definitely saves a lot of time. The two things that do not work with the quick hitch are the boom pole and the post hole digger.

 

[Alan W.]

I use my HF quick hitch with everything but the post hole digger. I have used my boom pole with it twice by using a chain to hold the toplink portion. Been using my newly aquired box blade pushing up brush and semi rotten logs to burn with no problems except for the rain.
I have modified all my implements to work with the hitch.
I need to extend the top hook to make it better. Plans include a hydraulic top link.

 

[JFoy]

Except for my landscape rake, everything I have is Quick Hitch ready. I have the Landpride QH on my BX25.

Just yesterday, I switched from my discs to box blade several times. I also used the toplink hook to hold the chain drag harrow as I pulled it over a patch I'm grading. A quick hitch typically makes things easier.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

No probs with the quick-hitch. Makes your life SOOOOO much easier.

Just one note, on anything but a BB, you'll need to prop up the hitch points on your attachments to keep them at "attachment height." Using old logs right now but considering making kickstands out of 2x4s and envying people who can weld.

It's just one more great thing about a BB; my favorite attachment by far.

 

[Fallon]

Same. The few non-QH compatible impliments I have get modified. My old King Kutter box blade fit fine. Irionically my Gannon box blade us the only impliment that doesnt fit. I have to adjust the tophook for the Gannon still. I might get to modifying it for CAT 1 hook height, but it's a CAT 1 & CAT 2 hitch size & I assume its CAT 2 height.

A hydraulic toplink really really makes grading & box blade usage a lot easier.

 

[bkrgi]

Quick Hitch for everything just makes life so so much easier. Worth modifying equipment to make it QH compatible if it is not already.
Hydraulic top link is next on my list making pitch adjustments a breeze....I got the 2 rear remotes for a reason on the B26

 

[Wagtail]

No probs with the quick-hitch. Makes your life SOOOOO much easier.

Just one note, on anything but a BB, you'll need to prop up the hitch points on your attachments to keep them at "attachment height." Using old logs right now but considering making kickstands out of 2x4s and envying people who can weld.

It's just one more great thing about a BB; my favorite attachment by far.

A quick word to the wise... PALLETS are your friend! Especially wheeled pallets. You can customise them to your individual implements using 2x4 or 4x4 hunks of wood.

 

[WranglerX]

I think secret with using quick hitch is making each implement compatible with one QH setup.... Unfortunately the industry is all over the place on 3PH setups (due to long time adaptations of many, many years) and only now "some" manufacturers are adopting QH standards.....

My plan is to make all my implements compatible with my QH, do it once cry once, be happy for long time...

Only wrinkle in my plan is I have SCUT and in lower position lower hitch points are only about 8 inches off ground, and at full lift only 24 inches, that severely limits how much actual lift I have ( seems most implement manufactured have lower pins about 14-18 inches off ground for BIG tractors.... Am thinking I may lower attachment points of QH about 4-6 inches (weld on extensions) to give me more initial height of QH (on tractor arms) and therefore more vertical lift capabilities... Does this seem reasonable?



Dale

 

[bcp]

I've been thinking about lowering the hitch points, too. One thing to allow for is that the top of the hitch will be higher and farther forward when it is fully lifted and it might hit something.

Bruce

 

[Fallon]

A quick word to the wise... PALLETS are your friend! Especially wheeled pallets. You can customise them to your individual implements using 2x4 or 4x4 hunks of wood.

I somewhat agree. Any heavy or bulky item I have gets moved if not stored on pallets.

Unfortunately for me I dont have the shop/barn space to store my impliments inside (well I actually do, but other stuff takes priority). With TnT & a quick hitch I can pretty much hitch up (minus PTO, hydraulics or kickstands) any impliment without getting off the tractor no matter how crooked its sitting.

 

[Fallon]

I think secret with using quick hitch is making each implement compatible with one QH setup.... Unfortunately the industry is all over the place on 3PH setups (due to long time adaptations of many, many years) and only now "some" manufacturers are adopting QH standards.....

My plan is to make all my implements compatible with my QH, do it once cry once, be happy for long time...

Only wrinkle in my plan is I have SCUT and in lower position lower hitch points are only about 8 inches off ground, and at full lift only 24 inches, that severely limits how much actual lift I have ( seems most implement manufactured have lower pins about 14-18 inches off ground for BIG tractors.... Am thinking I may lower attachment points of QH about 4-6 inches (weld on extensions) to give me more initial height of QH (on tractor arms) and therefore more vertical lift capabilities... Does this seem reasonable?

View attachment 570462

Dale

Yup, modify once, cry once. Or cry every time you hitch up.

Most tractors have multiple holes in the 3pt arms. The closer the hole the lift linkage is attached to the more motion you get. The cost of course, as with any lever you trade distance for capacity. Try moving the lift linkages to a closer hole & see if you can get more range while still lifting your heaviest impliment.

You can see I have mine set to the middle of 3 holes on the lift arms on my L4060 (along with a PTO shaft on my trencher that is about a foot to short from either end bring able to touch, excarcebated by a QH, but was still way to short without the QH). I havent fiddled with mine as it easily lifts my heaviest impliment & I have plenty of range (enough to rub several PTO guards). My TnT cylinders hadn't come in when I took the photo. My old L3200 had similar holes.

 

[WranglerX]

Don't have the luxury of having other holes I can move lift arms to.... And being so close to the ground already I can not see much gain.... BUT by add maybe 6 inch extension to center and lower mount points of QH I can go from 8 to about 14 inches initial height at lowered position, a quick visual on my SCUT seem to show plenty of room for clearance as the 3PH arms will be in about same position its in now with the QH assemble sitting about 6 inches higher (may change some of the "leverages" a bit)...Only consideration will be if running PTO shaft the I don't raise whatever that is on rear to point where I pinch or bind PTO shaft...



This is sort of what I invision but how much drop will be dictated on how close I can get top pin to cross arm... May have to put brackets on back of cross arm and shorten top adjustment just a bit ( have about 3+ inches I can shorten top adjuster)...

Seems to me if a manufacturer wanted to make a SCUT specific QH with lower mounts they would enjoy a pretty good and exclusive market from SCUT owners... And make more off the dealers lot attachments easier attachable...

Dale

 

[KYErik]

It might be easier to either shorten the two vertical pull "bars" that connect the rotating rockshaft (under the seat) to the lift arms- or buy adjustable vertical pull bars- this would lift the arms up higher.

Like this one:
CountyLine Lift Arm Leveling Assembly at Tractor Supply Co.

 

[WranglerX]

That is a thought.... One side of mine is solid (non adjustable) and one is adjustable, but It would only gain me about 2 inches max, by shortening up both rods....

Dale

 

[papachaz]

No probs with the quick-hitch. Makes your life SOOOOO much easier.

Just one note, on anything but a BB, you'll need to prop up the hitch points on your attachments to keep them at "attachment height." Using old logs right now but considering making kickstands out of 2x4s and envying people who can weld.

It's just one more great thing about a BB; my favorite attachment by far.

the only thing I've had to put a kick stand on to keep it upright was my tiller...does your 3pt not go all the way to the ground? as for the op, never had any issues using the box blade with my HF quick hitch. I did weld in some 1/2" metal inside the lower jaws to take up the slack. cat 1 implements, but those lower hooks are the size for cat 2, so you either need bushings to take up the slack, or weld in something to eat the space....

girlwhowantstractor, find a tech school close by and check into a night class on welding, it won't cost much, and you can get a small wire feed welder to use for small repair jobs around your place for not a lot of money. I use a Lincoln 140C that runs on 120v, and I've never had a problem with welds breaking. Of course, I know it's limitations too

 

[calpalmer]

I just have three 30-yr Class 1 implements (associated with my old L2550), and plan to use them periodically with that tractor but not the new M7060. They are a LP back blade, medium scarfing blade, and a 4'x12" auger. My QH plan is to buy all new class 2 implements from one supplier and strive to assure ahead of time they are plug and play compatible with the HD Speeco class 2. Plans tentatively include the 66" grapples (on order), a 84" back box blade (on order), side and top link hydraulics, 84" brush hog, and a landscape rake. These tools will get most of the heavy lifting done on our pasture reclamation project (reclaim from the forest). I'll continue to use the 2550 loader and back blade for forest trails maintenance, firewood collection, hogged fuel placement in the four paddocks, and yard maintenance support. Whew.