Box blade

[CoyPatton]

Interested in box blade, using it for a plethora of projects and will be pretty rough with it. I have a 2008 ck35hst. Want to know should I buy a unit that is a few inches wider than the tires or go narrower, I have read differing opinions on the subject. I think a heavier unit is the way to go, need a unit that is built sturdy. I am leaning towards a unit that is hinged and was wondering if it's worth the extra money? Seems as if it would be. Again I will be using this for ripping and leveling, spreading gravel etc.,etc.

If wishing to level material, you really need it to a few inches wider that the outsides of your rear tires (typically wider that the front ones). Otherwise you will ge in a constant battle after your first pass, 1 tire will be on ground you have removed while the other will be on higher ground, this just to avoid leaving a narrow strip that you must come back to work and guessing ad to how deep to dig when leaving that narrow strip.
this may make limited difference to you on non m-ground engaging implements but is huge on ground engaging or material moving implements.

 

[7010P]

Interested in box blade, using it for a plethora of projects and will be pretty rough with it. I have a 2008 ck35hst. Want to know should I buy a unit that is a few inches wider than the tires or go narrower, I have read differing opinions on the subject. I think a heavier unit is the way to go, need a unit that is built sturdy. I am leaning towards a unit that is hinged and was wondering if it's worth the extra money? Seems as if it would be. Again I will be using this for ripping and leveling, spreading gravel etc.,etc.

When I was looking at box blades someone here told me weight is by far everything, heavier is better. I bought an "Everything Attachment" but had looked at the Woods brands as well. I have had mine for about 2 years now and have had no issues and certainly I agree with the original statement "heavier is better". I had looked at all kinds from the least expensive to the most and I can tell you I am happy with my choice. My box blade is an 84" model weighing in at ~1025 lbs. My tractor width is ~84" as well. I wanted something that I wasn't worried about that is I could get through timbers that so could my attachments but that is me. Good Luck with your decision and remember weight for a box blade to do it's job properly IS everything!

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

If I did put hydraulic top link on, there wouldn't be a need for a hinged unit,right?

I have a hydraulic top link on mine, just makes adjustments super easy on the fly.

Example: Angle the box blade to scrape / collect material.... get to the end and turn around.... now adjust the box blade angle tilting back, with just the rear blade touching. This is done to "smooth" what you just moved previously.

With the hinged rear blade, it will "float" across the material, regardless of any up and down movement of the tractor.
With a fixed blade, if the front of the tractor moves up an inch, the box blade will go down an inch....causing possible "ripples"

Having both a fixed blade previously, and now a hinged blade, I will never buy another fixed blade. Just my opinion....

As others have said, get one that will cover your tire width, and get the heaviest that you can.

 

[Xfaxman]

Another thing that isn't mentioned very often is there are two basic types, Standard and High Back.

This is high back with a hinged rear blade:

EA calls theirs "High Horsepower"

'

 

[bubbu55]

Well,again I think the Woods brand is a heavier unit than most I've looked at but man you guys are making it hard.

 

[Xfaxman]

Thanks guys, I think the reason for a smaller unit was just about moving in and out of tight spots. That being said it really doesn't make sense to do. I like woods products, they just seem to be beefier than most others. Haven't heard any good arguments for the hinged box.

Here is Ted's explanation:

 

[bubbu55]

Thanks Xfaxman, fixed it is.

 

[swnoel]

This is the one I bought... all welded! I used it pretty hard and it has held up well.

King Kutter. 72 INCH BOX BLADE-6 SHANKS

72 INCH BOX BLADE-6 SHANKS

www.kingkutter.com

 

[Xfaxman]

My 6' High Back is fixed or floating:

 

[DieselBound]

For best finishing results I run backwards. Hydraulic top links should be standard issue on ALL tractors! If you go really slowly you can feather your way along (you really need to concentrate and be coordinated in your actions/responses).

 

[Xfaxman]

For best finishing results I run backwards. ------------

I run backwards, but the box blade is going forward:

If I go forward the box blade becomes a dozer blade:

 

[DieselBound]

^^ Yeah, yeah, I heard about guys like you! (I finally discovered a fully farm-functional telehandler [gotta have a mechanical PTO for mowing!], but it's WAY too much - Merlo Turbo Farmer; I can dream!)

 

[IndyIan]

I run backwards, but the box blade is going forward:
View attachment 696782 View attachment 696783


If I go forward the box blade becomes a dozer blade:
View attachment 696784

That would be handy to get the clay or turf rolls out of the blade for sure. Even with the hyd top link sometimes I can get plugged. What happens when a rock stops the machine on one of the corners? The leverage must start add up on the loader? I popped a stabilizer clevis off my 3pt arm but it just welded back on. It wasn't this rock but one similar brought things to a temporary halt.

This is an 84" Gannon from an old skip loader I believe, that is a bit heavy for the tractor in virgin dry clay soil with the 8 scarifiers down and the blade digging in. But I find it works good with just tilting the box to engage only the scarifiers to rip up the turf and then level it and start cutting with the blade. If you can find a super HD one I recommend it as I don't worry about doing anything to this one. If the driveway ices up bad I just drop two scarifiers and let the whole weight of the box down on them and bust ice 2-3" thick on the gravel driveway. Or sometimes to hook a bigger rock like this one out of the ground without a lot of digging I just use one scarifier and the hyd top link to roll it up, or pulling stumps. I think on average having the blade wider than the tractor is better for dirt work, in tight areas not so much but with the 3pt all the way up and the blade curled up it kind of gets out of the way, or atleast aways off the ground.

 

[TMGT]

Interested in box blade, using it for a plethora of projects and will be pretty rough with it. I have a 2008 ck35hst. Want to know should I buy a unit that is a few inches wider than the tires or go narrower, I have read differing opinions on the subject. I think a heavier unit is the way to go, need a unit that is built sturdy. I am leaning towards a unit that is hinged and was wondering if it's worth the extra money? Seems as if it would be. Again I will be using this for ripping and leveling, spreading gravel etc.,etc.

I just went through shopping for a heavy duty box blade myself, I ended up getting a used Woods/Gill SR25HD but if this deal hadn't worked out I was going to order one from Everything Aattachments.

Having had lighter box blades with a fixed rear cutting edge and also roll over box blades in the past, I will say I really like having the swinging rear cutting edge.

I was looking looking for a 6ft box and ended up with a 78", which actually worked out better as I have about 3-4" of blade past the rear tires.

I also wanted heavy for loader counterweight when I have my unloaded tires on, mine comes in close to 160lbs per ft.

If figure out what size you want and then features and weight, then see whats available, I really like the everythingattachments build quality and materials they use. Only downside is the 12-14 week wait.

Here's my BB on the L3240

And a view of how much it extends past the tire

 

[Xfaxman]

That would be handy to get the clay or turf rolls out of the blade for sure. Even with the hyd top link sometimes I can get plugged.

Yep, here is the hyd top link getting a good angle for the rear blade to do some leveling.

What happens when a rock stops the machine on one of the corners? The leverage must start add up on the loader?
---------------------------------------------

Hasn't happened yet. The loader arms are very stout.