Box scraper technique

[GlueGuy]

I know this has been covered a hundred times somewhere around here, but I wasn't able to find it. The subject line says it all. Although I know a lot of practice is required, I would like to shorten the learning process as much as possible.

I have trouble keeping the blade from "going to china", and alternatively not doing much at all. I know (and think I understand) the basic technique for adjusting the angle of attack: Nose in the air for smoothing, opposite for scraping.

What I'm looking for are tips on finer granularity in the two extremes.

BTW - I could swear that somebody listed a link to a book or something that went over this subject.

I will be eternally greatful [grin]



The GlueGuy

 

[Thomas]

GlueGuy,
Once you have your ditch rough out,have you tried your scraper in the float mode at a slower speed.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[GlueGuy]

Thomas,

I'm not sure, but I don't think the B7500 has a float mode for the 3ph.

I have been going pretty slow (I think). I'm usually in low range, RPM around 2K. I try to set the blade just about where it will intersect the high points at about 1" below the tops. However, it seems like when it starts digging in, it just wants to go deeper...


The GlueGuy

 

[Harv]

<font color=blue>I don't think the B7500 has a float mode for the 3ph</font color=blue>

I'm still learning about this stuff myself, but since it is unlikely you have any downforce on your 3-pt, isn't putting it all the way down the same as "float"?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have never used a box scraper but I do know that with my single bottom plow I have to work the 3ph control to keep it (the plow) at the right depth to turn the sod over without digging in too deep. You may need to do the same thing with the box scraper.

 

[Bird]

GlueGuy, if it wants to just keep digging deeper, then you need to adjust (lengthen) your top link.

And Harv, you're right, (or at least you would be for the B7100 without position control). You can just push the lever all the way forward and it'll just stay there and it's in "float."

And DennisY, if you get your top link adjusted right, you can put the 3-point all the way down and the plow will stay at about the same depth. If it's still trying to go deeper, that means the tip is pointed down and you need to lengthen your top link a little. If you have a place where you can back the tractor up to a ditch or something like that so you can let the plow down lower than the back wheels on the tractor to the depth you want the plow to run, then adjust the top link so the bottom of the plow is level, it'll pretty well run at that depth then.

Bird

 

[Harv]

<font color=blue>Harv, you're right, (or at least you would be for the B7100 without position control)</font color=blue>

Okay, Bird, now let me get this straight. "All the way down" floats, with or without position control. And position control allows you to set a minimum height, above which it still floats.

It all comes down to the fact that a standard 3ph has no down-force, right? Which means if the ground wants to push your implement up, it's always free to do so.

I'm probably spouting the obvious here, but I'm just trying to convince myself that I understand even the obvious. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I don't do a lot of this type of work with the scraper. I just haven't mastered it well enough. I took the front blade off our scraper and we use it for either scarifing with the points down, or just smoothing out using the rear facing blade.

What I have found that works tremendously better, is to use a rear rake, with a blade attachment and side panels, with two adjustable wheels on it. These are big about 12" diameter. You can move them up 1" at a time by redoing the spacers, quick and easy.

I'm able to float it along knowing it's going to cut 1" or 0 or whatever. One of these days I'm going to have someone make attachments to put the same wheels on my box scraper! Of course if I put the front blade on it I can't use it as a smoother with the rear blade.

Of course you can do this with a loader if you are REALLY good (I'm not), having the blade float behind me, and crossing the area at different angles, if there is room gets the job done. I use my BX for this purpose.

My 2 cents.
del

 

[Caretaker]

Harv,

That's the best explanation I've heard yet for how a 3PT implement operates - which explains why many 3PT implements have a weight pan on top.

I've also heard that a hydraulic Top Link can be used to apply down force to a 3PT implement. I can't see how that would work though, unless there is something for the Hydraulic Top Link to push against. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

"Still seeking enlightenment" /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[Bird]

Yep, you understand it, Harv. That's the way they work.

Bird

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>I've also heard that a hydraulic Top Link can be used to apply down force to a 3PT implement. I can't see how that would work though, unless there is something for the Hydraulic Top Link to push against. </font color=blue>

That's a tough one to describe, but could be demonstrated pretty easily. If you have a box blade tilted forward and on the ground, and you lengthen the top link hydraulically, you do, in effect, push down and forward on the bottom of the blade. Since the 3-point arms are somewhat free to rise (the weight of the blade works to hold them down), you can't get the full downward force (or even close to it) with the hydraulics, but you do exert some downward force. The same applies to the side link. Theoretically, you can't really put all the downward force on one side because the other side link should be free to float up; however, if I set my box blade flat on the ground (sitting still) and then push the right side down with the hydraulic side link, it will actually pick up the right rear wheel.

Bird

 

[GlueGuy]

Bird,

So let me get this straight: All the way forward is the same as float?

Does this mean the center position (for the 3ph) is NOT float? In other words the center position is "hold", but forward releases hydraulic pressure?

It would seem (to an amateur) that tipping the box foward (with the top link shorrtened) that it would move the front blade to a more vertical position and would be more likely to drag than dig. As I tip it backward (lengthen top link), that it would angle the front blade into a position to dig more (like a chisel). That is until the back blade rotates around enough to hold the front blade up, at which point it will do the smoothing action that I understand.



The GlueGuy

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>Does this mean the center position (for the 3ph) is NOT float? In other words the center position is "hold", but forward releases hydraulic pressure?</font color=blue>

That's the way it worked on my B7100. The center position would "hold" it from going lower, but it could always float UP.

As far as the angle on the box blade, one of the things most of us fail to mention in talking about box blades is the fact that the angle the blade is mounted on the box varies with different brands. And that makes the use of it a little different, but not a lot. I understand your theory, and nothing wrong with it, but for the reality of using the blade, I still think my original answer was right. Of course, I've occasionally been proven wrong./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif


Bird