Boxblade Usefulness Survey

[TresCrows]

Yeah, that is how I made a small trail also.
Glen, dude!, boxblades work just fine, your question/problem/proposition is interesting but the assertion that boxblades are useless is unfounded. The reason the boxblade is so mysterious to folks is a function of it's versatility because the only other implement that has such a wide range of uses to which it can be put is the FEL. Does everyone use their FEL in the same manner--some use it for snow removal--others claim it does not do a good job and prefer a blade or blower--for example so then does this mean the FEL is not useful? NO. The boxblade is multi talented and it is it's versatility that confuses people as to what it is intended to be it's purpose. The boxblades purpose is anything you want it to do --virtually everything because it is a multi purpose tool.
I do not agree on getting a 800 lbs box for a B series--I do not agree get the biggest and heaviest--in fact--I must dissagree with the entire assertion. Your box should match your tractor. A giant box on a tiny 2910 (yep the 2910 is a tiny, bitsy machine as tractors go--only very slightly less bitsy than a BX or 2410)) is not going to be anything but an anchor. That also I think is one of the reasons people do not get good use from their box--it is too big --yep--it is to big for their tractor and therefore cannot be useful for the full range of purposes to which the box is suited. The box should match the tractor and for some operations lighter is better. If the box stops the tractor in it's tracks as soon as it loads up it is to big and will not be useful for all boxblade suitable tasks!
Glen, you may not need a boxblade, some people do not need 4WD or a FEL. I for one need'em.
Heck, the box blade even works as a poor mans tiller/harrow.
The box rocks!!!!!
J

 

[jimgerken]

In response to the size of the box compared to the tractor, I agree that there must be some optimum ratio. When I was farming actively, I purchased a tillage tool for field work (I think I told this story already somewhere), that was sized for a range of horsepower. It listed our largest tractor as the smallest one that should be used. The tool was a dissapointment to use because we were underpowered.
On the www.laserleveling.com web page (some FUN reading and dreaming), it recommends 5 HP per foot of box blade width. When I think about this, it may not be that simple, because at some point the formula diverges, example: imagine having a 100 HP tractor, would you put a 20 foot box behind it? No of course. I bet that based on the combined experience of this TBN group, and with a little creative attachment swapping, we could get the formula nailed down pretty close. I imagine it would factor both HP and tractor weight.

 

[RAllen]

Let me re-phrase my comment about boxblades. "Buy the heaviest box your tractor can handle" Common sense rules here. My meaning was simply get the heaviest your tractor can handle. Additionally, you can get heavy duty boxblades in the smaller widths. That was my meaning.

A heavy duty NARROW width boxblade will work far better and last longer than the light duty models of the same width. This is one time I think heavy duty is the only way no matter how much you THINK you will use the boxblade. Believe me, you will find more uses than you can imagine.

Rick

 

[rdln]

Yes, In michigan they are useful and anywhere that you can have clean fill delivered and needs to be spread smoothly.

 

[Timd]

Richard -

So what boxblade are you using on your 2910? I need to
clear some paths through the woods this spring. I currently
have B2910 with FEL and Woods MD160 rotary cutter, thinking
of adding T&T and a boxblade to the arsenal.

Timd

 

[RAllen]

Timd

I now have a Landpride 25 Boxblade 60" length W/O the hinged rear blade. I first got a Series 15 but traded it in for the more beefy 25 series. Actually, the 15 series is stronger than most of the lower priced boxblades but a boxblade takes alot of pounding and the 25 series is heavier.

Rick

 

[John Weaver]

I would be interested in your opinions on who makes the best boxblade. I have a Howse and an "All American" (cheep model). There are some features I like and dislike on both. Weight, ease of adjusting rip teeth, etc.

 

[nicktime]

I only recently purchased my TC33D with FEL and a heavy Woods 6' boxblade, so I only have a few hours on my machine. The major reason for getting the boxblade was what I had planned over the next two years. I started putting in a driveway out to my pole barn. I needed to strip the topsoil and backfill with sand and gravel. Unfortunately, I now need to address some major drainage issues before I can continue. So far, the boxblade was very valuable for doing the work to this point. In addition, the other major project that I have for this spring/summer is the excavation of a large pond (no, I'm hiring that part out) and then the finish landscaping of over 3 acres.

Overall, I would have to say, as many others have, that getting a boxblade, as is the same for any implement, one has to first identify potential needs and uses, then determine what implement(s) will work. To just buy a boxblade without fully looking at how you are to use it, could be a large waste. In my own case, even with a boxblade, I will most likely get a plain backblade in the near future. The reason for this is that it appears to be a much better way to deal with cutting in ditches, which I have a lot to do.

I know that I'm speaking from relatively little seat time, but for me, I could have maybe gotten away without a boxblade, but it wouldn't have been as easy. Just my thoughts.

 

[John_Mc]

Nicktime:

What model Woods Boxblade did you get? I've also got a TC33D, and bought a 6 ft Woods boxblade (model GB72). It's one of the lighter duty Woods models, but seems more heavily-constructed than a lot of the other "medium-duty" boxblades I looked at (some were tin cans compared to the Woods unit). It weights bit under 600#, and is rated for up to 45 HP tractors, so I figured I was safe.

I've cleared a bunch of trails (and hit a few hidden stumps while I was at it), put in a 250 ft long drainage swale, did some monor re-grading, and done maintenance on close to 1000 ft of gravel driveway/road. So far I've been very happy with it, and have had no problems. Added hydraulic Top-'n-Tilt about half way through these jobs... made a BIG difference in how quickly it went, and in the final quality (before the hydraulic additions, I was much more likely to say "good enough" and call it quits. Now that I don't have to climb up and down to adjust things as much, I can hold out for better results.)

John

 

[glennmac]

Well, I'm pleased to find out that, under the TresCrows Utility Theorum, my posts here are not confusing; it's just that, like a boxblade, I must be multi-talented. Of my dubious talents, boxblading is not one of them. I have never used one. I merely read about them. They are near-Satanic devices. People are suckered into buying them. Usually cheap ones. Then they have trouble using them. Then they are suckered into spending thousands of dollars and/or hours buying or building tiptop-and-tilt systems. These things are also had to operate, and are also of dubious utility (especially tilt). It is easier to grade my driveway by backdragging my bucket and using a hand rake than to go through all that boxblade pain. Speaking of FELs, my FEL considers it an insult to be compared to a boxblade. No one is confused about the utility of, or how to use, a FEL. Finally, and all seriousness aside, one must not confuse the width of a boxblade with its weight. Indeed, you should size the width to the tractor. But, within a given width, there are boxblades of many different weights. A 2910 can easily lift an 800 lb. boxblade. Larger tractors can easily lift the 1000-1200 lb ones. Howse is low end. Gannon is THE high end. A notch down from Gannon is Gill. Both of those are owned by Woods, so they should all be in the Woods brochures. Also consider the less-Satanic rollover boxblades from Woods/Gill and Bushhog, among others. These are normally heavier than normal boxes of the same width. Keep the reports coming in.