BOXBLADE VS ROCKS

[Fredex]

I also have used a blade as a bulldozer while backing. Sometimes hear odd creaking & other warning sounds. Haven't broken anything - yet - probably because heavier ag utility style tractor and wide-set, snug stabilizer bars and, maybe, luck.

Probably all of us should be more aware of the fact that 3pt linkages are designed for pulling and, therefore, are more prone to bending/breaking while pushing, particularly when pushing at an angle.

 

[jinman]

I am going to have the lower arm replaced this time.

Its a Kubota L4330. I don't fault the tractor as I do push it to the limit. However I have noted forged connections on some other tractors which I think would be a bit stronger.

Zeuspaul

Is your lower arm captive in a fork like mine is? In the attachment, you can see that the pin is supported by the fork on both sides. For this to break, it would take a real shock. I think this arrangement has almost as much strength in reverse as going forward. I take it slow with my boxblade, but I've hit roots and rocks that bring me to an immediate wheel-spinning stop while going forward. I think my casting and mount is pretty strong.

 

[zeuspaul]

Jim, it is captive in a fork similar to yours. The similar piece that broke would be the right side of the fork shown in your picture which is partially hidden by the arm.

It has also brought my tractor to a stop. I believe the problem was rotational forces and a bent lower arm and the force being applied to just one side of the boxblade. The setup is probably rather strong if the forces are straight in or straight out. My top and tilt makes it easy to significantly alter the angles the force is applied to the *fork*. Also using the weight of the tractor by going downhill significantly increases the force.

Zeuspaul

 

[john_bud]

Zeuspaul,

The 3pt is only strong when pulling. Backing up and pushing is "bad". I only like to back up to push small piles of earh that are already loosened.


Even with all that said, it does sound like you were the benefactor of a freak situation. Definitely get a new arm. Once bent, the strength is reduced. You could probably weld on some re-enforcement if you are handy with a welder.

jb

 

[zeuspaul]

Bud

It might be bad but I know of no other way of making a road laterally on a steep slope with my existing equipment. If I go forward the tractor would roll before the boxblade were in a position to grade. Going backward I can make level ground before the tractor gets there.

It seems to work fine even with hard dirt. I have only had problems with large (200-300 lb+) imbedded rocks.

Zeuspaul

 

[Egon]

Use the bucket for working side hill.

 

[3RRL]

zeuspaul,
I think John Bud gave some great instructions on popping out boulders. That is exactly what I do with great success an no damage from that whatsoever. As stated here, the lower drag links were designed to drag your boxblade. However, if they are strong enough, using the boxblade in reverse as a bulldozer is a tremendous tool in shaping, tilting and contouring an area or say a road.





I have done quite a bit of road and trail building on my rural property as shown in this link. Pushing in New Roads and Trails
Explained in detail is the technique I use both pulling and dozing with the box blade. I suffered bent drag links too, but reinforced them quite a lot as shown in the link. And my drag links are huge as they were. I beat the crap out of my stuff pushing out 1,000lb boulders.

3RRL, do you mean real sharp turns or any turns? I leave everything down and do gradual turns and medium turns all the time....no all the way stand on one brake turns though. (from JohnBud)

John,
I'm not sure gradual turns would be too bad, but I found not having the scarifiers facing straight forward can bend them. So if it was me, I would just lift the box up and avoid accidentally catching them on something during a turn. Here's what happened to me. I was cutting a gutter with the boxblade severely tilted and I had a couple of the rippers down to aid in the groove I wanted to cut.



In that position, the side that is down is actually back away from the tractor more the the up end. Not much, but enough to see the boxblade is then not square with the tractor. I think it has to do with the geometry of the link attachments that causes it. Anyway, after cutting a while I noticed those 2 shanks were bent to the side. I hit several rocks and hard spots, but that is not unusual for my ground. I bent the shanks pretty easily. I replace the shanks and promptly bent them again doing the same thing. Finally, I think it was Bird here on TBN told me not to have the shanks down when turning or when the box is not pulling square to the tractor's direction. He was right.



The damaged shanks were not just from tilting it either. They are a result of the millions of boulders I ran into with my 55hp Kama. There were times the 7,500lb tractor was stopped dead and others that it just straightened them out or popped them off. Since then, I did a beef up/improvement job on my boxblade. One of the most important ones was to add supports for the scarifiers. I used 5/8" thick steel welding up "supports". I have not had one single shank break since that improvement, even doing the road work in the thread above.

 

[john_bud]

Rob,

Innovative as always. There is a lot more beef with those channels you made.

I think there are at least 3 things in my favor (not bending wise). First your tractor is larger and more powerful than mine, second your box is wider and even with your additions probably lighter and third I think your shanks are longer than mine to get to the same depth. You get more leverage to bend / break them easier.

To drop the scarifiers, I just pull the lever. The scar bar then drops down and locks in completely below the cross brace the 3 pt is mounted to. OK, you caught me. I actually am too wimpy and have arms to short to just pull from the seat, so I climb onto the box, stand on the scar bar and work the lever. Takes all of 15 seconds. Hyd would be nicer, but $$$. Not easily depth adjustable like yours, but usually I want them either all the way down or out of the way.





For reference, the ends on the box are 1/2" plate. The unit is 66" wide and supposed to be 830# and be built with 3/8 plate. But, they built mine with the same materials as the hydraulic box (1/2" plate) and it scales 880#. Had to order it and the dealer hadn't even seen one in this class. Paint was still wet in the runs when it was delivered.

jb

 

[BTDT]

How big are these fields your talking about? It might be quicker to just disc, scatter seed and let nature take it's course. A couple years of this and it should smooth out fairly nice I would think.

 

[flINTLOCK]

If I don't clear the surface rocks, about 25% of the ground would not be available for seed. Don't have to go too deep though. Probably won't get much deeper than 3-4 inches.