Brake Controller Reese vs. Prodigy vs. ???

[CurlyDave]

I upgraded my tow rig from a 2000 F-150 to a (new to me) 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 liter diesel.

The primary purpose of this rig is to tow my "Redneck Hunting Lodge", a Nomad Toy Hauler, 27' from hitch to rear bumper. 2 axles, both with brakes. Manufacturer's claimed weight is 6110 lbs empty, but I suspect it is much closer to 9000 lbs when I load it for a trip.

The F-250 has a Reese Brakeman Compact controller already installed, and I have a Tekonsha Prodigy controller in the F-150, which I still have.

Question 1: Should I swap the controllers before I sell the F-150, or is the Reese a better controller? I am already familiar with the Prodigy controls and I think I like them better, but I could learn the Reese ones as well.

Question 2: Is there a significantly better brake controller available? My budget is up to ~$500 if there is anything that is seriously better than either of these.

The other thing to consider is that since I now have a much better tow rig, I might start looking for an equipment trailer for the JD 110 TLB. Oh yes, and DW wants a new camping trailer to go visit the grandkids. She refuses to even set foot in the Redneck Hunting Lodge...

 

[Diamondpilot]

They are all about the same at that price point. If you want a great controller get a pressure driven one like the Brake Max.

Chris

 

[tlbuser]

If you want a really good controller MaxBrake™ - Hydraulic over Electric Variable Brake Controller

Southwest wheel gives a TBN discount too.

 

[Diamondpilot]

That was what I was talking about. Got the name bass akward.

Chris

 

[radioman]

Max is best out there - but why do you HAVE to sell truck WITH controller? I'd just take it out and keep it, unless you need it as a selling point. I'd would just start towing the trailer with prodigy and get the feel and swap over to prodigy and try it out and see which you like better.

OR go all out and get the max. :thumbsup: you will say never go back to other controllers again.

 

[CurlyDave]

If you want a really good controller MaxBrake - Hydraulic over Electric Variable Brake Controller

Southwest wheel gives a TBN discount too.

When I get to the Southwest Wheel web site, I can even find the write-up, but there is no way to order a MaxBrake controller. And no mention of a TBN discount.

I can find other websites that have it and I think I will order one in the near future.

* * * * *

I am not sure on whether to sell the F-150 or not. I might keep it for a while and think about that. The manual says it is rated to tow up to ~7000 lbs. but my experience is that it does much better at 5000 lbs or less.

I have used it hard and it is no beauty queen, but it is still a good solid work truck. And it needs a controller for the times when a light trailer needs to go somewhere.

 

[crazyal]

I'm not a big fan of tapping into the brake lines. If you like the Prodigy I would keep it. Mine has never let me down. I'm not sure if Reese makes their controller. I think they are owned by the same company that owns Tekonsha, Cequent. The Reese seams to be more of a basic controller while the prodigy is more advanced. Also I don't think the brakeman has a lifetime warranty. I'm sure it'll work fine but I would keep the prodigy. Since they are kind of the same company it could be a plug and play swap.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You are not tapping into the brake line. All you do is install a T fitting with a pressure sensor. One more fitting than factory.

I would guess a typical brake system has 20 plus fittings already if you count 2 at the master cylinder, 8 at the abs unit, & 2 at each wheel where it goes from solid to rubber line.

Worring about so called tapping in is silly.

Chris

 

[crazyal]

You are not tapping into the brake line. All you do is install a T fitting with a pressure sensor. One more fitting than factory.

I would guess a typical brake system has 20 plus fittings already if you count 2 at the master cylinder, 8 at the abs unit, & 2 at each wheel where it goes from solid to rubber line.

Worring about so called tapping in is silly.

Chris

Do you understand the word? You are disconnecting the brake line, the line with brake fluid in it, you then add a tee with a line heading to a pressure sensor, then you reconnect the line back up, and finally bleed the lines. If that's not tapping into the brake line then what is?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Do you understand the word? You are disconnecting the brake line, the line with brake fluid in it, you then add a tee with a line heading to a pressure sensor, then you reconnect the line back up, and finally bleed the lines. If that's not tapping into the brake line then what is?

Tit for tat. I do brake jobs just about weekly and have installed two of these controllers now on customers vehicles. A extra fitting would not concern me a bit.

I just got done adding a second set of hydraulic disc brakes to a trailer Friday. I guess I should not have done that since I had to add a T to the main brake line, then a 36" section of hose, another T, then a 24" section hose and a 72" section of hose to go to the left and right brake. Thats 6 more fittings. I guess the guy should park the trailer now since it has all these fittings the thing will fail and kill someone.:confused2: Then bleed the entire system. Its destine to fail.... Right!

Buy what you want but you are missing the boat with a hydraulic system. Hands down the best on the market behind the Ford factory system, GM, Dodge, ect.

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

i have a prodigy in my toy hauler.. really like it.

that said, in my various vehicles I also have drawtight activator II ( ok.. no frills.. but works 99$) and a cheaper hoppy.. 50$ when I bought it.. probably mor e like 65$ now.. that's in my 04 f250 )

they all have 1 thing in common.. when you step on the brakes, the trailer brakes come on...

i don't notice much difference in t he 'functioning' of the hoppy to the drawtight.

dial for sensitivity.. etc. prodigy is a bit more advanced... etc.

soundguy

 

[tlbuser]

When I get to the Southwest Wheel web site, I can even find the write-up, but there is no way to order a MaxBrake controller. And no mention of a TBN discount.

I can find other websites that have it and I think I will order one in the near future.

That's where I bought my last one and they had a 5% disc. for TBN. May have to call and ask, maybe they did away with it?

 

[Soundguy]

can't hurt to ask.. absolute worst they can do is say no and slam the phone down and curse your lineage after hanging up

 

[RobertN]

What about custom lines? When I switched my old Jeep CJ5 from a master cylinder under the floor to master cylinder on the firewall, I basically had to make all new lines. Of course, as part of that, I bought a double flare tool kit and benders to do it properly.

If the "T" is added properly, with correct fittings and double flaring it should not be an issue. And, pressure transducers are used all over in applications like this...

Adding this "T" and sensor, then bleeding the system is not really any different than replacing a master cylinder, wheel cylinder, or calipers.

This is not like adding a "T" and running the hydraulics to the trailer, like in the old days... No way would I do that...

Do you understand the word? You are disconnecting the brake line, the line with brake fluid in it, you then add a tee with a line heading to a pressure sensor, then you reconnect the line back up, and finally bleed the lines. If that's not tapping into the brake line then what is?

 

[Soundguy]

I perhaps think the poster was referencing the increased risk of a leak or failure by introducing extra parts. A smal risk I agree.. but statistically, a risk nonetheless. IE.. a few more parts and connections to leak or fail, past the parts already installed, oem or otherwise.

I don't see it as an unreasonbable addition.. and if I pulled dailey, especially larger or sensitive loads.. I might even add it myself. i think perhaps for the average weekend warrior who pulls a 7K load on a 16ish foot trailer a couple times a month, in state, it's probably overkill. ( overkill ain't bad if ya like to roll like that ).

just my opinion.. i'm neither for nor against it..

 

[CurlyDave]

I perhaps think the poster was referencing the increased risk of a leak or failure by introducing extra parts. A smal risk I agree.. but statistically, a risk nonetheless. IE.. a few more parts and connections to leak or fail, past the parts already installed, oem or otherwise.

I don't see it as an unreasonbable addition.. and if I pulled dailey, especially larger or sensitive loads.. I might even add it myself. i think perhaps for the average weekend warrior who pulls a 7K load on a 16ish foot trailer a couple times a month, in state, it's probably overkill. ( overkill ain't bad if ya like to roll like that ).

just my opinion.. i'm neither for nor against it..

Reading the reviews for the MaxBrake, one the advantages is that once it gets set up, it does not have to be recalibrated for every different trailer it tows.

With my Prodigy, I have to recalibrate for each different trailer. I even have to recalibrate coming home from the dump with the dump trailer because it can go from 8000 lbs to 2000 lbs when it gets emptied. Now this is not a big deal and it doesn't take that much time, but every once in a while I am reminded that I didn't recalibrate it. This always happens with a heavy load near the start of a long downhill run, which is not a good time, and possibly even a dangerous time to find this out.

I have five different trailers I will tow with this rig, and DW is wanting another one. Not having to recalibrate is a much bigger deal than the possibility of a minor hydraulic leak in the brake line, which will show up whether I am towing or not.

 

[Soundguy]

I have five different trailers I will tow with this rig, and DW is wanting another one. Not having to recalibrate is a much bigger deal .

and thus you would NOT be what I was refering to when i said the average weekend warrior towing 1x per month, on a single trailer.

than the possibility of a minor hydraulic leak in the brake line, which will show up whether I am towing or not.

I can guarantee you 100% that you will not have a leak in a 'T' that is not installed.

thus.. the addition of the 'T' DOES statistically raise yer chance of a leak. IE.. it's can't leak if not installed.

just sayin


soundguy

 

[Brad_Blazer]

The Reese is a timed controller - the braking force goes up steadily as long as the brake is applied. The Prodigy is a proportional controller - it has a simple accelerometer and applies the brake proportional to your deceleration. I don't like the idea of a timed controller when i think about an emergency stop. I have a Tekonsha Primus myself.

The MaxBrake controller that senses pedal pressure should definitely provide a better feel than a proportional controller. It's surprising to me that it doesn't have to be adjusted for various loads.

 

[gengine]

I've never had anything but a timed controller. A couple Drawtite Activator II's, a couple Reese something or others, and some real old ones with the coil resistors under the hood. The FIL has a prodigy, and I really like how the harder I push on the brakes, the harder the trailer brakes grab. If I were in the market, that's what I would get. By the way, what does DW stand for, "designated Wife"?

 

[CurlyDave]

... By the way, what does DW stand for, "designated Wife"?...

It usually means "Dear Wife".