Brake line flaring tool?

[/pine]

Using a cut off wheel on a angle grinder etc. CAN leave metal shards inside the tube...these can possibly cause damage to seals and other components etc...

 

[5030]

I buy mine at the local NAPA in 30 foot rolls. Domestic made (sort of) made in Canada which I'm good with.

I tend not to buy stuff like that from Amazon because chances are it's imported and not from Canada either. Now I will say the fuel polishing units I got from Amazon (Conplus) are fine but I did replace the filters with genuine Racor Aquablock filters.

 

[5030]

Using a cut off wheel on a angle grinder etc. CAN leave metal shards inside the tube...these can possibly cause damage to seals and other components etc...

Maybe but never been an issue here.

 

[Bob Rooks]

It's a brand name WTF...

They claim their main component is nickel with stainless steel and copper being subordinate constituents. No wonder problems. Sad.

 

[5030]

Brake line replacement isn't something I like to do in the first place but owning American iron and living in an area with snow and road salt makes it necessary All my refits are on the back end where the OEM steel lines are subject to spray and eventual corrosion.

Like I stated elsewhere, European car and truck makers got smart many years ago and got away from steel brake lines and some even went to braided stainless steel brake hoses. Braided stainless brake hoses impart a much more solid feel to the pedal as they won't expand at all under brake fluid pressure. and they don't degrade inside like reinforced rubber lines do and Fords especially are prone to that issue.

 

[5030]

Sad.

You, most certainly... I'm done commenting, you remind me of a pig in mud.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Brake line flares are totally different than hydraulic tube flare. I have hydraulic tube flare made by Parker Hannifan that has worked very well for me. No clue on a source for a good brake flaring tool though.

Brake lines are double flares. National Inverted Flare

 

[LouNY]

That has never happened to me in 65 years, but then I use quality tubing.

I've flared SS, steel, copper and other assorted tubings over the years, most of mine was either brake lines which were not as demanding as SS instrumentation tubing lines.
I've have had and have seen numerous flares that have split most of those were cut with a tubing cutter.
At one time Swagelock even had cutting blocks for cutting tubing with fine tooth hacksaws.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I've flared SS, steel, copper and other assorted tubings over the years, most of mine was either brake lines which were not as demanding as SS instrumentation tubing lines.
I've have had and have seen numerous flares that have split most of those were cut with a tubing cutter.
At one time Swagelock even had cutting blocks for cutting tubing with fine tooth hacksaws.

Yep. I don't know how many 316 stainless instrumentation and hydraulic lines I've cut and swaged over the years but I've always used a tubing cutter with wide rollers and never had a split. In fact, think my old Swagelok cutter is the best, where the cutting wheel is stationary and the rollers rotate. I also have a set of Imperial hand tubing benders from 3/16" to 3/4". I've used those cutting blocks before but they're kind of inconvenient and better suited for production cutting, imo.

 

[blee03]

You would not get those results with the Eastwood on-vehicle tool.

Is this the Eastwood on-vehicle tool your mentioning?