Brake overhaul

[Gary Sweat]

The left brake is worse than the right. This time, I'm leaving out the drain plug in the bottom of the housing so the water can drain out. I don't plan on driving it in a rice field and even if water does get in, it's got a way out.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I'm going to do a little experiment with the brake and axle seals. The right side was completely torn down, cleaned and new bearings and seals put in. For the left side I'm going to take the shorter route and just clean the best I can and replace the seals on both axle and brake.

Time will tell if it is worth the effort to overhaul or just patch it up and keep using.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Ok, I know this should be a simple thing but it's got me stumped. The replacement brake rod is longer than the original. I need to shrink it down and still have adjustment room.

I thought it would be as simple as shortening the barrel and take off some threads but that didn't work. Can't get it short enough and still have adjustment room. Then I thought I could just run the threads farther up the shaft and cut some off the ends. Problem is the shaft diameter is larger than the die to cut matching barrel threads. Ok, I'll just put it in the lathe and spin it down. Nope, the little 90 degree bend won't fin inside my lathe spindle.

This was supposed to be a replacement part but as I have found out lately not all aftermarket parts fit without modification. This is the third part I've had to rework to get it to fit.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to adjust it down to the right length?

 

[careyo63]

Cut a section out. Use the Old Adj. NUT and thread the shaft or weld it back together with the Nut for reinforcement . Wrong parts PMO.also but remember you have a somewhat Rare production Tractor having to use different parts to make it work.

Carey

 

[Gary Sweat]

Cut a section out. Use the Old Adj. NUT and thread the shaft or weld it back together with the Nut for reinforcement . Wrong parts PMO.also but remember you have a somewhat Rare production Tractor having to use different parts to make it work.

Carey

Thanks, cutting and welding may be the way I have to go. I tried running a die down the threads but found the new shaft diameter is too large for the die to cut. They apparently cut the shaft down some before threading. In order to get the shaft to fit in my lathe I would have to cut the bent end off anyway.

I know the 1900 is a rare model but when they show the part for that model they should at least take the time to make sure it works or put a statement that you may have to modify it.

 

[winston1]

Cut the end off, re bend, drill new pin hole.

 

[Car Doc]

Just an observation from looking at the pic, if its not the left handed thread side the good end on the other rod that's not broke may just thread into your new rod.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Cut the end off, re bend, drill new pin hole.

In other words, quit complaining and make it work

It was the bending I was hoping to avoid. I guess a 12 ton press will bend it. My torch is messed up right now so I can't heat it. Hopefully cold bending won't break it first. If it does, it's going to wind up with an ugly weld:laughing:

 

[California]

The new barrel is longer. Could you use the old barrel with the new rods?

Or is the old rod slender enough to cut more threads, then add the new (longer) barrel?

 

[careyo63]

Hope he's not on the Time Clock :laughing: Its been almost 4hrs. Gary so let us know just how long it took you to Rig It:laughing: