Brake Pad Advice.

[N80]

I've got a 2003 F150 XLT. The brakes have never been what I'd call great. They are adequate. I drove my son-in-law's 2012 F150 the other day and the brakes are far superior.

The tires are too big for the truck and that does not help either. They are reaching the end and will be replaced in the next few months. I'll go back to stock size.

I'm towing a lot more than I used to and would like to optimize brake performance.

The only thing I can really modify on these brakes is the pads. I can change the brake fluid but I don't think that is part of the problem.

So, I'm looking on advice for brake pads with better initial bite and better overall grip than OEM or OEM replacement pads. Brakes won't typically see high temps so that is not a big concern. The only pads I'm even aware of for better grip in trucks and tow vehicles is EBC Yellowstuff pads. Used them on the racetrack (once) but never in a truck. So looking for advice for some good grippy pads. I do not care about dust and noise if that is an issue.

 

[Citydude]

I have a 2003 F250. The brakes have always been subpar. I've changed the pads with little difference. Hoping to learn what comes out of this.

 

[N80]

I've been doing a little research but not finding much. Hawk makes a pad for tow vehicles. I've used their racing pads before and they are good stuff. I'm used to paying $300 and up for racing pads. It looks like a set of their pads for tow vehicles will run around $190. Not used to paying that much for truck pads but I'd do it if I knew they would make a difference. The EBC pads I mentioned above are another option but I have not priced them. I'm not finding much else.

 

[Citydude]

I changed the front stock rotors out for heat dispersing rotors and a good set of pads a couple of years ago with no improvement. Im of the opinion there is nothing out there that will improve performance without large $$$.

 

[The Fred]

Pad friction material choice is paramount here.

You need a very aggressive friction that will ruin the brake disc but also stop the truck safely
I used a set of Wagner severe duty on my 2008 Silverado 2500 because the stock pads were not aggressive enough on the brake discs. I was impressed at how well the truck stopped after that. Be prepared to replace brake rotors more often with these pads but they work.

Generic parts store brake friction is what I call junk friction, use something quality that works.

Good luck, Fred



Heavy Duty Brakes & Severe Duty Brake Pads | Wagner Brake

 

[Citydude]

Thanks Fred!

 

[N80]

Fred is correct. With racing/track pads there is a wide range of friction choices and heat resistance. I expect that there is at least some range of choices for truck/towing pads I just have not been able to find it. The downsides to improved friction and heat resistance are cost, noise, dust and rotor wear.

Fred, I will do some research on the Wagner pads. It sounds like what I need. Thanks. My truck does not get a lot of daily mileage so rotor wear won't be a big issue. Which is good because the front rotors are part of the hub assembly on my truck. There may be a good reason for that but seems like one of the stupidest design 'features' I've ever seen. There is no reason I know of that changing rotors shouldn't be quick, simple and easy. It has been on all my other vehicles.

 

[radioman]

have you replaced your brake fluid with new yet? sometimes with contaminated fluid it wont have that non compressed feel.

 

[N80]

I'm not sure the fluid has ever been replaced. Maybe once. That is good advice and I will change it when I do the pads. However, in this case I don't think it is the problem. The pedal feel is okay, it just feels like there isn't much grip. This is nothing new; always been like this. I don't really notice it that much until I drive someone else's truck with better brakes or when I've got a load in the bed. When towing a trailer the trailer brakes make up for the difference.

For any of you who change brake fluid often, I highly recommend a product called the Motive Power Bleeder. It allows you to do a full brake job by yourself. No need to have someone pumping the brake pedal. Seems pricey (~$65) but I consider it priceless. A very simple device with a hand pump, a reservoir, a pressure gauge and a cap that screws onto your master cylinder reservoir.

 

[The Fred]

What you"ll notice with aggressive friction is reduced pedal pressure.

Personally I could care less about rotor wear or dust on the wheels, or squealing. Wash your nice truck more often, you will appreciate the better stopping power.

I can't stand any ceramic brake pads they just don't get the job done for me.

Ask any racer or drag racer you know for good brake pad advice, most of those guys have experience trying different frictions and could give their opinions here as well.

I had an old Volvo with a 500hp (dynoed) LS1 vette motor and the brakes I used in the end were EBC red. They worked very well at the end of the 1/4 mile.

One weekend I raced with cheap brake pads I had scarfed out of a set of loaded brake calipers I had; at the end of the 1/4 mile I darn near crapped myself.

Got rid of those pads the next week before I raced again. When I look for brake friction for my personal cars I try to use German specified friction that is R90 or 90R rated. Most of these frictions are quite aggressive and make tons of brake dust and wear the brake discs clean. I love it when my cars stop well.

ECE Regulation 9 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Another thing you will notice is the more aggressive the friction is the brake rotors will shine more or look more like bare metal. If you have a GM or any domestic vehicle you will notice a brown shade or tint on the braking surface of the rotor, this is because the OEM specified friction is designed to NOT wear the brake disc. Instead they deposit a substance on the brake disc that improves the coefficient of friction and keeps the discs looking brown. Another good note is if you can see original machining marks in the brake discs after a few months then the friction you chose is not very aggressive.

Whatever you choose let us know the results and good luck, Fred

 

[Fallon]

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths is a good read about some braking principles & tech.

 

[GLyford]

I have an 03 XL, and my pedal is mushy too.

Prowling the ford truck forums it is a pretty common complaint on the 03s. The only thing that really seems to help is adjusting the screw on the end of the master cylinder pushrod. It's a very fine dance between getting a comfortably stiff pedal and the brakes staying locked in certain situations. I haven't done mine yet, but I keep thinking about it. I have noticed that if I pump it once I get a lot better feel.

*** Soft Brake Pedal Resolved *** - F150online Forums

 

[N80]

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths is a good read about some braking principles & tech.

I didn't follow the link but I suspect the article is referring to deposits on the rotors which cause pulsing in the brake pedal. Warping a modern rotor from heat is very unlikely. The rotors on my track car get glowing hot and sometimes smoke for several minutes after a track session and none have ever warped. However, I have had improperly bedded pads leave deposits on the rotors which causes vibration and pulsing in the pedal. The other issue that is more often neglected is the contact between the rotor and the hub. The slightest amount of dust or roughness that causes this point of contact to be even slightly not flat will cause increasing problems.

 

[N80]

I have an 03 XL, and my pedal is mushy too.

Prowling the ford truck forums it is a pretty common complaint on the 03s. The only thing that really seems to help is adjusting the screw on the end of the master cylinder pushrod. It's a very fine dance between getting a comfortably stiff pedal and the brakes staying locked in certain situations. I haven't done mine yet, but I keep thinking about it. I have noticed that if I pump it once I get a lot better feel.

*** Soft Brake Pedal Resolved *** - F150online Forums

I personally wouldn't mess with that. I've done rotor, pad and caliper replacements. I've flushed and filled the brake fluid. But I personally wouldn't mess with that adjustment myself. I'd have a pro do it. And if I thought that was my problem I'd be inclined to go to an aftermarket master cylinder anyway. (I've had this truck a long time and feel like most major components other than the engine, tranny and diff are underspec'd. The shocks, springs, brakes and steering all seem to be just not quite up to the task of what the truck was designed for.)

I still think most of this can be solved with the right pads. On a car different pad compounds can make a in all aspects of braking including pedal feel. I think OEM pads and OEM replacement pads just put too much value on quiet and dust-free qualities at the expense of friction. This might be okay for the folks whose truck is primarily a grocery getter but not good enough for towing, hauling loads, driving in the mountains, etc.

 

[terryknight]

i have hawk super duty pads on my truck and they have been great.

SuperDuty Brake Pads | Hawk Performance

 

[not2old]

Fred is correct. With racing/track pads there is a wide range of friction choices and heat resistance. I expect that there is at least some range of choices for truck/towing pads I just have not been able to find it. The downsides to improved friction and heat resistance are cost, noise, dust and rotor wear.

Fred, I will do some research on the Wagner pads. It sounds like what I need. Thanks. My truck does not get a lot of daily mileage so rotor wear won't be a big issue. Which is good because the front rotors are part of the hub assembly on my truck. There may be a good reason for that but seems like one of the stupidest design 'features' I've ever seen. There is no reason I know of that changing rotors shouldn't be quick, simple and easy. It has been on all my other vehicles.

My truck ate pads when new. The Wagners I tried were a lifetime guarantee but only lasted 6000KM before they were metal to metal. I change the oil that often. I've had good luck and function with "Super Stoppers" by Girling or Bendix. 1990 F250HD 4x4 460, E4OD 8800 GVW

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I have done research on this, been a while so the facts are fuzzy, I can tell you the results. Not necessarily the same truck but similar issues. We have a chevy suburban 2004 1500 spongy brakes I flushed the brake fluid, big difference. brake fluid over time will adsorb moisture, when towing the brake fluid gets hot the moisture boils causes all kinds of issues. if towing recommend flushing the brake fluid. We do not store any brake fluid unless it is in a sealed air tight container. We then switched out all the rotors for the slotted/vented drilled rotors and a matched semi metallic pad. Huge improvement, stopped brake fade on long hard braking, pulling a trailer. Wouldn't suggest it if i was using it as a grocery getter, but for towing a trailer at max GVCWR would recommend it.