Branson 3510i starter quits working when hot

[Texasmark]

I don't have relevant tractor experience with this... but this happened to my '77 VW bus when we were on a trip once in the 90s and whacking the starter with the handle of a screwdriver got it to behave long enough that we got home

In our case, the starter motor was turning (electric motor sound), but the starter wasn't engaging the flywheel; the starter solenoid was going, and apparently getting a hit was helping it do its job.

Either your armature was shorting out against the case and the whack raised it up just long enough to get it running (problem I had on a the 2000) or your whack jarred the case to engine block interface with a little scuffing which shined up the ground return and you were able to get enough current to roll it over.

 

[Coyote machine]

Depending on age of tractor, usage and hours on the clock, etc. as mentioned already this could be a factor regarding the condition of your wiring to from your battery and starter, and everything in the start/crank circuit, like your ignition switch, too. I'd look more carefully at your battery ground cable, under the plastic sheathing. If there is corrosion present replace it. Then check the positive cable for same possible issue. Don't rule out anything without testing it electrically, and visually. This applies to your ignition switch AND your fuse block front side and back. Look for any corrosion. If present- replace. Resistance to flow of current is good when new, and wears on circuits as time passes. More resistance to flow as wires wear, aggravated by heat, moisture, loose or bad grounds etc.
Report back findings...

 

[cpocobb]

Sorry I haven’t gotten back to this thread. Had a bit of a physical issue and had to have some surgery. Should be back to 100% in a couple more weeks. The Tractor is a 2006 with about 830 hrs on the clock.

 

[ch1ch2]

Any damaged wires?
I had a gas engine with a wire going to the distributor that had a crack in the insulation.
The engine would start and run for a few minutes. The engine would get warm and shut down. No restart until the next day. Same thing repeats.

I gave up and took it to the shop.(dealer)
They charged me $100 to tell me it was one of 4 things and replace all of them. I did get my money back and took it to an other dealer. They found that wire I mentioned earlier.

Turns out when the wire got warm it flexed. The wire was broken inside and continuity was lost. The wire reported to the computer that the engine was turning and the computer kept the fuel pump on.

Moral of the story is don't over look wires.

 

[Texasmark]

Sorry I haven稚 gotten back to this thread. Had a bit of a physical issue and had to have some surgery. Should be back to 100% in a couple more weeks. The Tractor is a 2006 with about 830 hrs on the clock.

Hope the recovery goes well.

Nothing I said will help you. Is the safety switch under the Hi-Lo range lever....one on the right sitting in the seat? If so, while the key switch is in the start position, does wiggling the shift arm do anything? My 3910 (one of 4 tractors of the XX10 Ford series) had an issue with it. New switch fixed it....if I installed it without the gasket supplied with the aftermarket switch. You are pushing on a ball (like in a ball bearing, and depression closes the switch. If your switch isn't protruding far enough through the carrier rod (like happened to me when I used the supplied washer), the ball doesn't recess adequately to close the switch.

Easy test, access the two wires that come out of the top of the tranny cover and follow them to their wiring harness mates. You will have to remove the sheet metal panel directly forward of the tranny cover to get to the connections. Make up a jumper wire to connect the two wiring harness terminals together essentially bypassing the tranny switch. GET IN THE SEAT, SIT DOWN, and see if it will start.

If that gives no solution, reconnect everything. PUT BOTH LEVERS ON THE TRANNY TO THE N POSITION. Take a pair of common pliers and jumper across the ⅜" terminals on the starting solenoid. If the starter activates either the solenoid or the key switch is bad....my guess or the wiring between the two.....connectors would be my guess; corroded.

 

[cpocobb]

Thanks for all of the responses, everyone. I figured it would be something simple, and it was. It was the clutch safety switch. Apparently the contact point with the clutch linkage has worn to the point that it wouldn’t activate the switch, and it’s not adjustable. I had to take the steering column and dash panels off to get to it, and was able to leave the switch hooked up and assessable with the panels replaced. Now I can push it all the way in with my thumb and crank my tractor. I’m ordering a new switch today.

 

[Texasmark]

Thanks for letting us know how it went. Helps when attempting to help others!