Bridge I-Beam cutting.

   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #41  
20>1/16 + 6>.045 @$2.75/disc= 26= $71.50+ tax. I like .045 better for cutting.
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #43  
I don’t have any personal experience with them but I’ve heard the HF wheels don’t cut good.
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #44  
HF is my friend. .50-.75 a disc on sale plus a free flashlight.

Since you used BOTH sizes....what are your opinions on the 0.045" discs. Did you notice an improvement in cut speed?

And running them on a GOOD grinder...like something 10A or bigger helps ALOT too with cut speed.

I don’t have any personal experience with them but I’ve heard the HF wheels don’t cut good.

Never used the HF ones.....But have used the HF 3" discs for the air tools. I have no complaints with them.

In general though....there are two main types of disc "materials". Aluminum oxide and zirconium. Zirconium last longer, but costs a tad more $$$

Here is what we use at work .45 Type 27 (42) & Type 1 (41) | United Abrasives
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #45  
I don’t have any personal experience with them but I’ve heard the HF wheels don’t cut good.

The problem is there are 3 different types of HF cutoff wheels. One made in russia (silver label) and two made in china (black/green). One of the chinese types has the fibers widely spaced (1/4" apart or so), those don't last long and disintegrate at the slightest bind. The russian ones (which are likely all sold by now) and the newer chinese ones both have more close spaced fiber mesh holding the grit, cut better and last longer. So only buy the HF ones if the fiber spacing showing on the back side is 1/8" or less.
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting.
  • Thread Starter
#46  
Since you used BOTH sizes....what are your opinions on the 0.045" discs. Did you notice an improvement in cut speed?

And running them on a GOOD grinder...like something 10A or bigger helps ALOT too with cut speed.


Never used the HF ones.....But have used the HF 3" discs for the air tools. I have no complaints with them.

In general though....there are two main types of disc "materials". Aluminum oxide and zirconium. Zirconium last longer, but costs a tad more $$$

Here is what we use at work .45 Type 27 (42) & Type 1 (41) | United Abrasives

I used something like this with a trigger set toward the rear handle. Grinder.jpg It is the smoooothest of my 5 grinders by far to operate. Of course I took the guard and handle off and just held the head with the non trigger hand.
I found the .045 discs work well when there is absolutely no binding or pinching or any deep cuts. I found my self wishing my stash of .045s were done so I could stick to the 1/16. Maybe i am not careful enough with them to make them last longer???
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting.
  • Thread Starter
#47  
I finally got the beams cut off, squared up and welded together... I used 7018AC rods at someones suggestion and they worked fine for my. I had 10# of 7018 rods that I couldn't make an arc to save my but, so in the pond they went.

I had some 5/16? x 5-1/2" plate so I welded a 12" piece on each side of the joint. Everything went smooth until I welded some angle iron to an edge of the outside beams. This is for bolts holes to hold down wood. The beam warped sideways maybe a couple inches in the center of a 24' span. The second one I put a chain with a come-along and blocking to hold it straight while more judicious welding and that was a little better, but still warped and inch or so. I will have to figure a way to straighten them out before placing, or maybe not. I set the beam on blocks 23' apart and there is no sag whatsoever so I am happy there.

Now I am wire brushing them, putting rust reformer on and painting John Deere Green of course. Or whatever good oil base paint I have around. The chipmunks won't complain either way.

I will be working as the weather allows in my little garage but want to try to get them painted and then place them eventually, maybe in February.

The ends will sit on either a 6" I-beam on concrete or 5" galvanized angle iron. Not sure yet. With angle iron I won't have to go so deep for header concrete. Fot the other end maybe I will just let is sit on the ground and ramp it up with dirt to wood level.

The wife is finally accepting my conglomeration and is on board with it. .














Without pictures it didn't happen so here are a few.

Chuck





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   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #48  
Looks good! I for one always appreciate pics
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #49  
I wish those 7014 rods went in a pond near me, one of the easiest rods to weld with.................
 

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