Bridge I-Beam cutting.

[LD1]

Didn't see any pictures of the splice, which is perhaps the most critical part of what you are doing.

You said you plated the sides (web), but in reality.....you really should splice the flanges.....at least the bottom.

 

[Deere Dude]

Didn't see any pictures of the splice, which is perhaps the most critical part of what you are doing.

You said you plated the sides (web), but in reality.....you really should splice the flanges.....at least the bottom.

The first pic is where the flange is located and the second is the angles added for bolting the wood to the beams. I didn't get a close-up picture of the weld job because I didn't want all those "great job" compliments.

Actually, I never considered welding under the beam flange as I never saw it done plus I figured the amount of beams plus staggered joints near the ends was overkill anyway. I did taper every joint and ground out scrammys before second pass welding.

 

[aczlan]

Didn't see any pictures of the splice, which is perhaps the most critical part of what you are doing.

You said you plated the sides (web), but in reality.....you really should splice the flanges.....at least the bottom.

You can sort of see it in this one:

Without pictures it didn't happen so here are a few.
View attachment 581196

I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical, I would make it shaped like a diamond (or an elongated diamond) so that the it is less likely to crack.

Aaron Z

 

[fried1765]

You can sort of see it in this one:

I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical, I would make it shaped like a diamond (or an elongated diamond) so that the it is less likely to crack.

Aaron Z

" I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical"
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!

The bottom is in tension, and will try to pull the butt welds apart.

 

[Deere Dude]

" I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical"
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!

The bottom is in tension, and will try to pull the butt welds apart.

I have enough 5.5" flat stock in the barn so I will add to the bottom flange. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Streetcar]

You can sort of see it in this one:

I agree that a splice plate on the bottom is critical, I would make it shaped like a diamond (or an elongated diamond) so that the it is less likely to crack.

Aaron Z

+1 good advice on shape of splice plate

 

[Oldpath05]

View attachment 581192 View attachment 581194 View attachment 581198

If your going to be a JD fan might as well go all the way. You have any trouble with pin hole with using 7018 ac rods? The last time I used those I had to shine the steel up before welding or get pin holes. I've been doing "Judicious Welding" for around 40 years and I still think it's darn hard to stop steel from moving when welding, to keep it from moving you'll need judicious rigging to hold it.

From what I see your doing a great job on this bridge, like the add on holes for planking, looks like it will hold a dump truck. What is this gully the bridge is for, 5,10' deep, is it for storm run off water? Should be interesting putting it in place.

 

[Tractorable]

Next time just buy an old 53ft flat bed trailer, remove the axles, cut it in half, and drag it over the gully. They make great bridges.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/170260-flatbed-trailer-bridge.html

 

[kc5dlo]

As far as the warped beams go, I am reminded of a story from a friend that worked at a plant and one of the projects was a set of steel beams for a bridge that had a slight curve in them. Everyone was wondering how to put the slight bend in the beams. An old timer got a big torch and would heat a section of the beam and then get a cup of water and slowly pour it on the side of the beam that needed to be curved in.

 

[Deere Dude]

I finally got my bridge done this week. The far lower end I raised the bridge and cemented two pillars where the tractor wheels would go. Then I concreted an 18" deep x 12" wide surface for approaching the end of the wooded section (No picture yet). I surfaced it with treated 2x10s plus 4 rows of 2x10s where the tractor wheels mostly go. I talked to the lumber yard and he said if heavy semis etc would cross, heavier wood would be needed but I feel very comfortable driving 6k across.

I never measure and downward movement before and after my tractor is on but it sure feels solid as a rock.