Briggs 16hp twin won't fire

[bindian]

I tried yup check but i can't find the end cause it goes behind the flywheel

Exactly. It goes to the condenser. The points and condenser are under the flywheel. You gotta remove it. Bet your points are toast. That's why I went to eletronic ignition at overhaul. No points or condenser and no removing the flywheel to get to them.
hugs, Brandi

 

[farm boy00]

Exactly. It goes to the condenser. The points and condenser are under the flywheel. You gotta remove it. Bet your points are toast. That's why I went to eletronic ignition at overhaul. No points or condenser and no removing the flywheel to get to them.
hugs, Brandi

The thing is the tractor has electric ignition on it. Thats why i asked what the wire was for. Does that mean it's for nothing??

 

[Walt 2002]

Folks we are getting all confused here. We need the model AND CODE number to know for sure what he has and what wires we are talking about. These engines after early 80s used solid state ignition, no points.

OP - - Assuming this engine is CDI equipped, the coil should be mounted in such a way that the plug wires come out of it heading AWAY from the side where the spark plugs are then they double back 180 degrees and come out the side where the spark plugs are. IF they do not do that, you have the coil on upside down. Still need those numbers.

I can send you a Service Manual for your engine at address below IF you like. Put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

 

[farm boy00]

Folks we are getting all confused here. We need the model AND CODE number to know for sure what he has and what wires we are talking about. These engines after early 80s used solid state ignition, no points.

OP - - Assuming this engine is CDI equipped, the coil should be mounted in such a way that the plug wires come out of it heading AWAY from the side where the spark plugs are then they double back 180 degrees and come out the side where the spark plugs are. IF they do not do that, you have the coil on upside down. Still need those numbers.

I can send you a Service Manual for your engine at address below IF you like. Put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

I have posted once before but here it is again

I must have it upside down

 

[Walt 2002]

The thing is the tractor has electric ignition on it. Thats why i asked what the wire was for. Does that mean it's for nothing??

OK, as a follow up to my previous post, there is a tab on the underside of the CDI Unit where the "Kill" wire attaches to shut the engine off. The other end will end up thru the wiring harness at the ignition switch. In this case, any wire or wires coming from under the flywheel are for the charging system. A single wire with a fat place in it goes to the positive battery post via the wiring harness. Two wires, one will have the fat place, other one will be for lights UNLESS in the very rare case there is a voltage regulator present - well let us know.

I can't see the picture clear enough to tell what your wires are doing.


Walt Conner

 

[farm boy00]

OK, as a follow up to my previous post, there is a tab on the underside of the CDI Unit where the "Kill" wire attaches to shut the engine off. The other end will end up thru the wiring harness at the ignition switch. In this case, any wire or wires coming from under the flywheel are for the charging system. A single wire with a fat place in it goes to the positive battery post via the wiring harness. Two wires, one will have the fat place, other one will be for lights UNLESS in the very rare case there is a voltage regulator present - well let us know.

Walt Conner

Flipped it now the tractor runs. Thanks a bunch!!!!

 

[farm boy00]

Got the tractor up and running but the can't start cold without help from starting fluid and it don't rub high idle with choke. I know it's the carb but i have some PB blaster carb cleaner. Would that work get the motor running better and so i don't have to do a carb rebuild

 

[farm boy00]

That's the tractor. Been running it with a back blade

 

[bjr]

Okay now guy, I've walked a mile in your shoes, only with a 18 hp twin. You can't be anymore clumsy or awkward with a screwdriver and pliers than me. Now even if you can't buy the carb. kit, go ahead and take the carburetor off and split the bowl halfs and use some carb cleaner and a paper clip some compressed air if you have it and clean the passages. Now I'm definitely NOT tryin' to come across as a smart *** here, but I was continually shooting myself in the foot by not being a little more aggressive in repairing my mower. The worst case, here, is you might tear the old gasket and you'd have use a small dab of some kind of gasket maker to put it back together and please pay attention as to how the float needle come out and goes back on the float pin clip. You'll be fine. My unit NOW rev's up to 3400 rpm's and idles at 1300 rpm's and if it's even close to being warm it starts without choking. Use some silcon dry spray or whatever you have on the throttle/choke cables so they're nice and free. Just like Larry The Cable Guy says "Get-R-Dun". Hope this helps. bjr