BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM !

   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM ! #11  
The part was clearly cracked for some time. The corrosion discolored portions of of the failure plane tell that tale. The part was weakened and your latest "bump" finished it off.
 
   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM ! #12  
Goochy, here are my thoughts. I dont think it is Cast Iron, probably mild steel. You could spark test it if you like on a grinding wheel, Cast Iron has short dull red less than 3 inch sparks Mild steel will have longer, brighter spark with some branching at the tail. I would not try to weld it it back I would buy new. Not that it couldnt be welded, but I dont think it will be all that much (hopefully) and that part can see a lot of stress. I think as you that it was always 1/2 broken and you just finished it off.

James K0UA
 
   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM ! #13  
That cracking started right at the edges of the hole a while back and stabilized for awhile til it encountered the tree. That is a weak part of the arm and a crack can make it fragile. Holes in a highly stressed cross section like that should have their entrance circumferences radiused to inhibit the formation of cracks. [Cracks like to start from a sharp edge.] It may be a known problem with that part and might be covered on low hr tractors. That looks like cast steel. For probably half the cost of new a good welding shop could fix that one better than new ... a little added reinforcement and elimination of sharp edges by use of a needle scaler to peen them. Check that area on the other one. And if you buy new pay attention to the edges of the hole 1st thing.
Good luck.
larry
 
   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM !
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks for info ! I am going to price it both ways. ( Weld vs New ) I think JD is $280.00 :confused2: for 1 arm !! I also going to call aftermarket compaines. Buying used you never know what ya get , not mad , just disappointed . I am just glad I did NOT break it :laughing:. My wife came outside and looked down in the woods , ( all the small trees and bush GONE :p) she said " ITS NOT A BULLDOZER !!!!!
 
   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM ! #15  
Thanks for info ! I am going to price it both ways. ( Weld vs New ) I think JD is $280.00 :confused2: for 1 arm !! I also going to call aftermarket compaines. Buying used you never know what ya get , not mad , just disappointed . I am just glad I did NOT break it :laughing:. My wife came outside and looked down in the woods , ( all the small trees and bush GONE :p) she said " ITS NOT A BULLDOZER !!!!!


Geez.. $280?... I think I would try to weld it! I was thinking $60 or something like that.:confused2:
 
   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM ! #16  
Geez.. $280?... I think I would try to weld it! I was thinking $60 or something like that.:confused2:

If I was doing it in my shop, it would be at least $180. with no warranty.

One thing most of us ignore or are unaware of: 3 point arms are designed to be used only in tension (pulling). Using them in compression stresses them in directions they were never made to sustain.
 
   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM ! #17  
We haven't heard from the OP if this arm was attached to something mounted on the 3ph when it hit the tree and broke. I'm thinking it broke in bending (flat-wise) when an un-attached end of the draft arm hit the tree.
This arm may have been bent before and straightened (causing the apparent stress cracks).

I would buy the new arm and go on with life.
But would still check with a Deere dealer to see if there is any chance of warranty (which I would doubt because of buying from another party).

Wish you well.
 
   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM !
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I had my angled grader blade on it . On my old Ford 3000 , I did BREAK stuff by pushing stuff back with box blade . but with this new tractor and angle blade , I just use the ft end loader to push stuff . ( not the rear blade ) . I think it was a old break , so buy new and move on . Thanks for pricing and info on welding .
 
   / BROKE lower 3 pt hitch ARM ! #20  
The shape of the "old" cracked section is typical of a fatigue break. The failure starts at a point and slowly propagates. Then the weakened part breaks completely. :(
 

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