Broken axle shaft!

[kentuckydiesel]

Was doing some general gravel work the other day when my front right wheel locked up.

Tore it down to find a broken yolk on the outer shaft, along with the ears broken out of the double cardian type center connector between the inner and outer shafts. Not too happy.

Check with John Deere...they want nearly $800-$1000 for the axle parts I need. Now I'm pissed.

Have a call into the Carraro axle parts dealer in Ohio to see if they can do any better.

Anyone else ever deal with this? Anyone ever find a better replacement option? Know if any other manufacturers use the same model Carraro front axle as my 5200 has? (#126554)

I will file this thing out of a block of metal before I give JD $1000 for parts!!! (or just put a new yolk on the old shaft)

Thanks,
Phillip

 

[deere5105]

Check with a drive line shop. I recently bent the drive shaft that powers the front tires. Was able to save several hundred letting them rebuild my shaft.

 

[aczlan]

Try a tractor boneyard for the part (Wengers of Meyerstown in PA comes to mind).
Does that share the axle with the 5210? If so, Wengers may have what you need: Used John-Deere 5210 Tractor Parts - Front-AXLE-4-WHEEL-DRIVE

Aaron Z

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Yea, that'll fit...but $400 for a used axle shaft is still pretty steep. I've just been running the tractor in 2wd for the time being. Think I'll try and rebuild this shaft and see how that works out.

-Phillip

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

What went south that caused the problem? Be good to know for the rest of us.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Was wondering how many hours you have on the tractor? Also, what were you doing when it broke?

You might try a tractor salvage yard, however that is a moving part and chances are from a high time machine. Sometimes there are units that get caught up in a hay baler fire and the front end is still perfectly fine.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Did part #5 break at the yoke? Or #4?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Looks like the shaft is $668 while #4 is about $164

Maybe you could get the shaft repaired at a driveline/ driveshaft shop?

 

[SPYDERLK]

What went south that caused the problem? Be good to know for the rest of us.

Did part #5 break at the yoke? Or #4?

I have a Mahindra 7520 that had a similar problem ... 1,3,&4 were twisted out under high load conditions. The reason, I think, is that the tractor hydrostatic steering often cannot control wheel direction in high load differential traction conditions and the wheels will be steered sideways in a hard push regardless of steering wheel input. I replaced the whole shown assembly end to end for around $500. Glad it wasnt $1000 as in OP case! I cant image being successful fixing the damaged parts.
larry

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I have a Mahindra 7520 that had a similar problem ... 1,3,&4 were twisted out under high load conditions. The reason, I think, is that the tractor hydrostatic steering often cannot control wheel direction in high load differential traction conditions and the wheels will be steered sideways in a hard push regardless of steering wheel input. I replaced the whole shown assembly end to end for around $500. Glad it wasnt $1000 as in OP case! I cant image being successful fixing the damaged parts.
larry

That makes sense Larry. How or where did you find the stuff to fix it so cheap.

 

[SPYDERLK]

That makes sense Larry. How or where did you find the stuff to fix it so cheap.

I got it thru LaWalls Tractor. Its for a Mahindra tho ... looks identical, but probably not. :confused3:
larry

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Did part #5 break at the yoke? Or #4?

The ears for on 4 and 5 broke. I am pretty sure the u-joint went out and took the ears with it. No sign of any u-joint caps in there. Tractor has about 1500hrs.

-Phillip

 

[kentuckydiesel]

I cant image being successful fixing the damaged parts.
larry

I run a big steel fabrication shop so it's not outside the realm of possibility for me. Heck, one time I made a conversion u-joint for the rear driveshaft of my 350-400hp diesel F350 in a barn using parts from two u-joints, some hot rolled steel strap, a stick welder, an angle grinder, and a little bit of time. That **** thing held up for 15,000mi. (I just had to see how long it would last)

-Phillip

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I would call a driveline shop about #5 since its the most money. Then, maybe buy the #4?

 

[TractorTech]

Try to get the jd part number for what you need and check it on ebay. Another option is aftermarket like Glemco or Tired Iron