5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 26,027
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
I'm an engineer as well. A Farming engineer...
Im not sure drilling and tapping those spots would provide much more strength.Considering the original case break and stud repair, I would beef up the toplink mount by making a bracket that ties into the 4flats on either side of the PTO, drill, tap and bolt it there. The aluminum housing isn’t strong enough. I know you said you replaced the 3PT post hole digger in favor of a skid steer type, but thats just my 2 cents
Like your thought sequence. I too thought of pulling the pan and looking for gremlins. Also thought about injector pump..BTW, as an engineer I do a fair amount of customer work because thhere seems to be a shortage of competent techs- but I am hamstrung (mixed metaphor?) with oneI would investigate to see what the loud clanking sound was.
If possible to pull the pan with the engine still in the tractor I would to look at the bottom and if it has them
the balancers. A loud clank could be a lose flex plate or hydro static drive.
Other wise your engine into the new unit, repair that engine and put it in your old unit with the new cover and now you have two good tractors.
I too thought about a mechanical abutment of sorts, but haven't gotten there yet. Just want to avoid another failure. The worse case scenario, of course would have the welds fail and re-damage the case and/or hydraulic cover.Considering the original case break and stud repair, I would beef up the toplink mount by making a bracket that ties into the 4flats on either side of the PTO, drill, tap and bolt it there. The aluminum housing isn’t strong enough. I know you said you replaced the 3PT post hole digger in favor of a skid steer type, but thats just my 2 cents
Xlent content my friend. Did I miss-say aluminum somewhere? No, the tricky cast iron here. I will take a photo of my "attempt." So many shops wouldn't touch it because 'it is likely to fail, ' well, we'll see-hopefully not.Im not sure drilling and tapping those spots would provide much more strength.
And whats aluminum? I though this was cast iron??
At one time, kubota actually offered a bracket to beef up the toplink connections on some of their older models. It was recommended for 3PH backhoes. And it tied the toplink brackets (which only have horizontal bolts bolting it to the rear case) to the bolt holes on top where the seat mounts.
IF you can make/weld something that ties in some of the bolts on top of the casting it will help alot.
This was kubotas optional toplink mounting bracket
View attachment 772667
Just rebuilt a Little Beaver EZ Kwik trencher. Runs better than most of my gas-powered machines (many).Xlent content my friend. Did I miss-say aluminum somewhere? No, the tricky cast iron here. I will take a photo of my "attempt." So many shops wouldn't touch it because 'it is likely to fail, ' well, we'll see-hopefully not.
Just got a good deal: Met an airport owner who provides quasi-heated storage, and he allows access for repairs . So I have a Polaris in there so I thought I'd put T1 on my trailer and put it in. No excuses for not getting it done. But even with essentially one hand I continue work on a very large deck (???)
I asked the cast maker (surgery #8 on left hand, last week)View attachment 772835 to surprise me on my surgically repaired hand and she chose the pink. Tough.
Tractortech mentioned aluminum in post #22. That comment was directed at him cause I wasnt sure where he was coming from with that statement.Xlent content my friend. Did I miss-say aluminum somewhere? No, the tricky cast iron here.