Brush Cutting

duckhunt · May 22, 2009

I've been working on cleaning up some land recently and have needed to cut some rather thick brush. What size material do yall recommend being the maximum to try to cut? I have a Woods Hertiage 5ft cutter and the manfacturer specs say 1". I believe it will handle alittle more. Just wanted a second or third opinion.

Thanks

Sergei · May 22, 2009

Can't say for sure but I'd guess from how my unit cuts 1 1/2" might be a safe cut for you so long as the shear bolt is the correct size and will let loose if you hit something to big. Last year I hit a steel fence post that was hidden along a fence and almost cut it in half, made one **** of a noise and it put a dent in the top cover, blade got a nice nick in it now but it didn't stop it. It's going to depend on how you hit anything and you speed.
If in doubt get your self a chain saw and play it safe.

greenmule · May 22, 2009

Just depends on how hard you want to push your stuff,I clear brush every winter and use chain saw on probably 1/2 inch on up,you get rid of stubs that way,[cut it off real close to ground],lotta work,but,I ain't in any hurry,if I was would rent a dozer.

duckhunt · May 22, 2009

Sergei

I backed mine over an old roll of barbwire in deep grass, WOW, talk about noise, I just knew I'd ruined my new cutter. 1 hour later, I finally got all the wire out. No damage thankfully.

knute_m · May 22, 2009

duckhunt said:
I've been working on cleaning up some land recently and have needed to cut some rather thick brush. What size material do yall recommend being the maximum to try to cut? I have a Woods Hertiage 5ft cutter and the manfacturer specs say 1". I believe it will handle alittle more. Just wanted a second or third opinion.

Thanks

You've got a good tractor and a good cutter, but going after big brush can really take its toll.

The mower might handle it with a few dents in the side walls, but your tractor and your tires may not be quite as forgiving. Pushing fairly large brush over before running it under the brush hog can do a lot of nasty things to the underside of your tractor -- like puncturing your hydraulic filter, ripping hydraulic lines, and pulling wire harnesses apart.

When the mower cuts, it usually leaves a pretty nasty stub sticking out of the ground. When that stub dries, it can go right through a tire the next time you clear.

Pushing brush over for a rear mounted mower be pretty hard on your paint job too.

I'd suggest you either start with a good heavy duty brush cutter or a chain saw. One other good alternative is to get a tooth bar for your loader and go out after a good soaking rain. You might be surprised at how well your tractor will pull roots out with a tooth bar.

Good luck,
Knute

Sergei · May 28, 2009

Today I when out to cut my field and ended up cutting about 10 small dead scrub trees that didn't make it through the winter, they ranged in size from 1/2 inch to almost 2 inches and the KK when right through them. Now what I always do is back the KK over them, I never drive over them it's just to easy to damage something on the tractor, so after the first cut then I lower the cutter and make sure the remains are cut to ground level.

duckhunt · Jun 7, 2009

Thanks for the replies. I just hate having to drag out the ole chain saw in the Louisiana Heat. Chainsaw+jeans,boots,etc+98 degrees+95% humidity= One miserable day. Not to mention the Mosquitoes and knats.

I'll looking into a toothbar. The Boss(wife) said I've spent enought on tractors. Maybe this fall she will come around.

LBrown59 · Jun 7, 2009

duckhunt said:
Thanks for the replies. I just hate having to drag out the ole chain saw in the Louisiana Heat. Chainsaw+jeans,boots,etc+98 degrees+95% humidity= One miserable day. Not to mention the Mosquitoes and knats.

I'll looking into a toothbar. The Boss(wife) said I've spent enought on tractors. Maybe this fall she will come around.

And what do wives know about that?

Transit · Jun 7, 2009

Try cutting around the big stuff first if you can. Than back into the scrub trees slowly with the proper PTO speed and the tranny set to a low range.

buck12 · Jun 8, 2009

knute_m said:
You've got a good tractor and a good cutter, but going after big brush can really take its toll.

The mower might handle it with a few dents in the side walls, but your tractor and your tires may not be quite as forgiving. Pushing fairly large brush over before running it under the brush hog can do a lot of nasty things to the underside of your tractor -- like puncturing your hydraulic filter, ripping hydraulic lines, and pulling wire harnesses apart.

When the mower cuts, it usually leaves a pretty nasty stub sticking out of the ground. When that stub dries, it can go right through a tire the next time you clear.

Pushing brush over for a rear mounted mower be pretty hard on your paint job too.

I'd suggest you either start with a good heavy duty brush cutter or a chain saw. One other good alternative is to get a tooth bar for your loader and go out after a good soaking rain. You might be surprised at how well your tractor will pull roots out with a tooth bar.

Good luck,
Knute

It is interesting you say this because the underside of my 2615 is cleaner (less low hanging stuff) than the Kubota I was considering. I have no first hand experience yet because I have only used it around the house thus far and will likely be a few more weeks before I get her into the heavy brush at the hunting camp.

michellesc7 · Jun 8, 2009

Hey Mr L.B. wives and women do know something. We drive Mahindra tractors!
I use the bushhog with respect. Although a heavy duty 6 ft bushhog can do heavy duty brush, I try to keep it under 1.5 inches and only do that size backing mode along the creek banks. Brush cutters are for light and heavy brush. Tell your wifes it is all for them.

I recently punched a hole in a tire that looked like it could be plugged. It cost me about $325 including vulcanizing the tire, a tube, water and antifreeze and 3 trips out to the farm by the service truck. It was in a grass area and I ran over a fair size tree limb the wrong way.
M

J_J · Jun 8, 2009

duckhunt ,

If you read some of the post on brush cutting, some of them say they cut up to 3 and 4 in trees. I read all that with skepticism. However there are tree cutting bush hogs, as posted in another post, that will cut up to 8 in trees. I try to stay with in the 1, to 2 in range.

Papasmith · Jun 23, 2009

Instead of a chainsaw, if you have a lot of small trees you want to cut, and especially if they are in inhospitable places for your tractor, get a handheld brush cutter. I have an Echo and, it will cut down trees 4 to 6 inches in diameter down to the ground. It is a beast. It is the biggest model they make with the bicycle handlebars. (if you get one, contact me on how to best position the handle bars. What you might think is not probably not the best way)

One other thing, I had an adapter made and use circular saw blades. I know they are not rated for the high RPMs of a brushcutter but, before I discovered that, I had already gone through about 10 to 15 blades. (I have done a lot of cleaning up on properties). Since then, I have gone through another 30 or so with no problems. However, I have had problems with pieces flying off of steel blades that are typically supplied with the brushcutters. Again, I have had no problems with circular saw blades but, if you go this route, use at your own risk.

When using a big handheld brushcutter the trick is learning how to position the blade so that you can cut both sides of the tree from the same spot without kickback. Once you learn how to use this piece of equipment, you will be AMAZED at what you can do with it. As for me, my Echo brushcutter is indispensable for cleaning up a piece of property. Much, much easier, much better and much faster than using a chainsaw to cut down small trees.

Dave in NC

J_J · Jun 23, 2009

Papasmith,

I have to disagree with your assertion, that cutting from left to right will not kickback. It is just a logical thing for the blade to try and push out , cutting into a tree from that direction. I believe that all gear head brush cutters turn counter clockwise looking down at the blade. It is only logical to cut from right to left, because the teeth on the blade will pull the blade into the tree. Some of the brush cutters have a tree stop to help hold the cutter stable, and it is on the left. I also use the 12 in blade with carbide teeth.

I would like to know how you cut both ways equally.

Papasmith · Jun 23, 2009

J_J said:
Papasmith,

I have to disagree with your assertion, that cutting from left to right will not kickback. It is just a logical thing for the blade to try and push out , cutting into a tree from that direction. I believe that all gear head brush cutters turn counter clockwise looking down at the blade. It is only logical to cut from right to left, because the teeth on the blade will pull the blade into the tree. Some of the brush cutters have a tree stop to help hold the cutter stable, and it is on the left. I also use the 12 in blade with carbide teeth.

I would like to know how you cut both ways equally.

Hi JJ.

Love the beard.

Didn't assert that cutting from left to right would not cause kickback. What I said was, the trick is learning how to cut from both sides. If you don't know where to position the blade on the left side, you will definitely get kickback. However, there are several elements comprising the backcutting technique that will dramatically reduce the likelihood of that happening such as:

1) Position of your blade when engaging on the left side. You have to learn to balance the back torque with the cutting speed.
2) Speed in which you engage. You can engage full speed but, you need to have a lot of practice first.
3) How you hold the brushcutter. Interestingly, you don't hold the brushcutter too tightly. This can damage the head of the brushcutter if you do get kickback which will invariably happen sometime. You just need to have a feel for it which comes through practice. The benefit is greatly improved speed and less operator fatique.

By the way, you will get kickback even if you don't make a habit of backcutting and I have found it to be much more severe. It happens when the blade bounces back into another tree in poorly placed backcutting position going full speed or near full speed and you are not prepared for kickback. This can damage the cutting head.

I have cut down, and I mean this literally, 1000's upon 1000's of trees this way and have many years of experience. However, it doesn't take long to learn the technique. I have read of others who do the same thing in other forums such as Lawnsite.com. In fact, I can't imagine people not trying it. The job is just so much easier when you learn how.

With that 12" brushblade with carbide teeth, you might not need to cut from both sides. However, if I did have a 12" blade I would probably still cut from both sides. I mean you have to reposition yourself if the tree is leaning the wrong way and, well there are many other situations that make it so much faster, easier and yes, safer when you know how to do it.

Dave in NC

AchingBack · Jun 23, 2009

What I'm wondering about as you gentlemen discuss using 12" blades; doesn't that require removal of the blade guard?

J_J · Jun 23, 2009

What blade guard. You aren't the blade guard police, are you. The blade nut is a left hand thread if that makes any difference. And yes, we are taking chances. I have done this in the past, but am kind of laid back now watching the world go by.

Papasmith · Jun 23, 2009

Like JJ, I don't use a blade guard. Certainly the absence of a blade guard does make it a bit more risky but, in all my years of going without one, I have had only a bruised shin or two. That was due to hitting sizable chunks of wood that I had already cut and them being kicked back.

Taking off a blade guard can actually increase safety. A blade guard is extremely awkward to work around. The frustration, constant movement to get in the right position to cut, the resultant increased fatigue can be distracting. Moreover, there is an increased risk of kickback in that it is harder to place the blade in the optimum position when cutting down trees. Now, I am not recommending taking off the blade guard if you feel more comfortable with it on but, I much prefer it off.

One more thing. My big Echo brushcutter requires the use of a full harness which really minimizes any danger of being cut by the blade.

Dave in NC