brush hogging - how high is too high?

RoyJackson · Jul 9, 2005

( Much along the same lines as cleaning your radiator grill, you might want to drop by the local drug store and pick up a small breathing mask. I'm not sure what they are actually called, but they look like a small surgeon's mask. When you are mowing stuff as tall as you stated, you stand a good chance of inhaling a bunch of pollen and junk that you really shouldn't. )

Amen, Brother!

You can also get these particulate masks at most hardware stores. While you're there, $4.95 buys a decent pair of goggles.

TractorLegend · Jul 10, 2005

This brings up a "question to go with a question" that goes unanswered in my Kioti manual.
When the RF mower on back is all the way up, the driveshaft is at a very steep angle. If it were a vehicles' driveshaft I'd say its too steep to operate at roughly 3' off the ground.
I've done so intermittently with no vibration.
Think it's ok to do so???

RoyJackson · Jul 10, 2005

( This brings up a "question to go with a question" that goes unanswered in my Kioti manual.
When the RF mower on back is all the way up, the drive shaft is at a very steep angle. If it were a vehicles' drive shaft I'd say its too steep to operate at roughly 3' off the ground.
I've done so intermittently with no vibration.
Think it's OK to do so??? )

It's recommended that universal joint angles don't exceed 15°.

Your post suggests you are operating your mower in the transport position.
This is a very unsafe thing to do.

If you're trying to use a finishing mower to clear a field, you'd be better off buying or renting a cutter.

I strongly suggest you not use that mower with the wheel(s) off the ground in the future.
Premature wear of the PTO shaft U-joints could be the least of your problems...

TractorLegend · Jul 10, 2005

This is exactly why I get hacked off at the Kioti companys owner manual. These are issues that should be outlined.
(In English)
The few instances my mower was operated raised up some wasn't due to the heigth of the grass, rather the terrain.
None the less not so good I see. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

RoyJackson · Jul 10, 2005

"The few instances my mower was operated raised up some wasn't due to the height of the grass, rather the terrain."

If your terrain is such that your mower scalps, or the rear of the mower lifts when you go over a rise, leave your top link as long as possible, use a chain instead of a rigid top link, or disconnect the top link completely to allow the mower to float.

You don't want the PTO shaft rubbing against the mower deck housing though. If it does that , your mower may be too large for the terrain you're cutting.
There are areas where my mower scalps. The contour of the slope to level ground is just too abrupt for the size (length, not width) of my finishing mower. I hit this area with a walk behind mower.

This info probably wouldn't be in your tractor manual...more likely in the implement manuals.

TractorLegend · Jul 10, 2005

Well I certainly learned something today!
10 Q!!!
The rear hitch use/ instructions/ hints was almost completely left out in the Kioti owners manual- I guess they think you (me) are born with this knowledge.
I tried osmosis: I stood there and stared at it for the longest time---all I got was sore neck LOL
Does anyone have some decent 3 point hitch use guide/ instructions that maybe came with another rig?

RobertN · Jul 10, 2005

Run it and see how it does. If you are lugging, that is bad... Try a lower gear, or cut it tall and then do a second pass lower.

Other have mentioned this, but I will reiterate... Especially since you may have similar dryish tall grass like we have around here...

1) Mow early. Get out there at 6:30 or 7am. The grass is tall, and drying out. Fuel moisture and humidity is highest early in the morning(like the morning dew on the car windshield). When I volunteered at the local fire station, I went out on fires caused by people mowing, late in the afternoon, on low humidity, low fuel moisture days. Bad thing... Mow early. If it is a "red flag" day for fire condition, or real windy, mow a different day...

I like to make a few passes to cut a field into pieces. At least if I do cause a fire, there will be some breaks. I have never had it happen, cross my fingers, but I still like to do that. A couple passes makes a 10' break... That will help at least a little if a problem does occur...

2) There is nothing wrong with taking two passes, one with the mower set higher, and a second finish cut.

3) I take a break pretty much hourly. I'm ready for a couple minutes stretch time and a glass of water or potty break. I brush off the grill, clean the radiator screen, and check/empty air cleaner dust cap. It is amazing how much stuff can build up in there. I would guess the guys in the midwest and east with green grass don't get so much gunk, since they get rain while we do not in the summer. That light fluffy dry stuff will clog radiators and filters.

4) I wear a chainsaw helmet when I am out mowing. These tractors are not very loud, but the noise they do make can take it's toll after hours in the seat. My helmet has ear muffs, and a face shield. Some of the fluffy lite stuff gets flying around, and them low branches, will make you like a helmet and face shield. My helmet also has a flap on the back to protect the back of the neck. Nice relief from sunburn, and mower dust down the neck of the shirt... FYI, mine is a Huskvarna chain saw helmet.

5) This applies to all tractoring, including mowing. Grease every zerk on the tractor every 10 hours. There will be some on the mower. Also check the mower gear box for oil level.

RoyJackson · Jul 10, 2005

It's pretty simple really...

I'm assuming you have a standard Category 1 3 point hitch. You should, if this tractor was built for distribution in the USA, Canada or Mexico (I'm guessing about Mexico).

Back your tractor as close to the cutter (let's use a rotary cutter as an example) and centered as best you can. Go in with your lower links in the lowered position. You may have to raise them a bit as you near the cutter.

You've got to get the lower links on the link pins of the cutter. This will require some shifting about of the cutter, most likely. Use a 5' 2x4 or some other lever. The right (as you face the front of the tractor) lower link has some up/down adjustability. You may have to use that...
WHen you get one of the links on the implement pin, make sure you insert the spring clip Lynch Pin. It's a real drag when one gets hooked up, then slips off while you're working on the other lower link.
By the way, this is when an I-Match system or Pat's Easy Change comes in real handy.
This is the biggest hassle of rigging an implement, by the way.

Next (I'm hoping you have attached a PTO shaft to your tractor before), rig the implement PTO shaft to the tractor PTO Important: The tractor engine must be off and I strongly recommend the key be in your pocket

If you haven't rigged a PTO shaft to your tractor before, there will be a ring or pin on the tractor end (PTO Shaft U-joint) that must be rotated (if a ring) or depressed fully (if a pin) allow release tension on the detent pins that lock th PTO shaft to the tractor PTO. As you slip the PTO Shaft on the tractor's PTO, you'll see a groove running circumferentially on the tractor PTO. That's where those detents lock. Make sure the PTO shaft is locked in by pulling backing on the tractor end shaft U-Joint.

Then attach the upper link. It should be lengthened
for cutting and shortened for transport, if you need to do that.

All in all, rigging an implement is easy in theory. The weight of an implement can give problems, but you'll figure out shortcuts as you go.

Try raising and lowering the implement. As mentioned, the right lower link has adjustibility. Use the to level the implement horizontally. Don't worry about perfect...you're eyeball should be a good enough gage. There are turnbuckles on the lower links. You'll want to snug them up to minimize side to side sway (especially if you intend to raise the implement for transport).

Remember... when you're working around the PTO, the engine is off and you have the ignition key in YOUR pocket!!! You won't get a second chance with a PTO. You can only hope it rips your clothing, arm or leg off instead of wrapping you around the shaft. Don't take chances!

Well, I hope this helps...

aloha · Jul 11, 2005

The attachment shows how I spent the better part of 2 weeks last summer. It's called guinea grass, and was 12' high in areas. And very dense.

It was slow going, but I have found that anything my tractor can drive through, the 60" Woods standard brush hog can cut.

RoyJackson · Jul 11, 2005

Pretty impressive picture!

How many acres did you have to do?

My first use of a cutter was through tall stuff like that...and you're right...slow going!