Bucket cylinder bent rod

[oldnslo]

Yep, lessons learned the "hard way"!!!

Any thoughts re buying non-OEM parts? I'm sure some are better than others!!! If there is a "heavier duty" that "fits", that would be my preference! Apparently the mfgs "hide" specs on parts trying to get you to purchase OEM. Gave up trying to find part # / specs on the original bucker cylinder. Guess I need to take some measurements of the remaining original cylinder and look for a match. Assuming I find a match (close as possible) would it be best to replace both cylinders so both are exactly the same??

If you are not sure of the cylinder size I would recommend replacing them both so they are the same. Also possible cylinders are metric so dimensions may not be American fractional size.

 

[RancherGuy]

Yep, lessons learned the "hard way"!!!

Any thoughts re buying non-OEM parts? I'm sure some are better than others!!! If there is a "heavier duty" that "fits", that would be my preference! Apparently the mfgs "hide" specs on parts trying to get you to purchase OEM. Gave up trying to find part # / specs on the original bucker cylinder. Guess I need to take some measurements of the remaining original cylinder and look for a match. Assuming I find a match (close as possible) would it be best to replace both cylinders so both are exactly the same??

I have bought a few cylinders but never OEM. The biggest difference that I have found between a high and low quality cylinders is the rod and the seals. Oftentimes you get what you pay for when buying aftermarket. High quality rods are better steel, have better surface preparation, and may have multiple chrome platings. The idea is to keep rust away longer when not in use and weather exposed. However if the cylinder is stored in a retracted position when not in use, or use is frequent, then the rod is either automatically protected or is constantly being cleaned and lubed. I have purchased from my local Tractor Supply Co store, or online from various sites - do an internet search on "hydraulic cylinders". If you are looking for specific names, my quick list of online vendors includes Agri Supply (ASC), Agrimart, Quality Farm Supply, Surplus Center, Sloan Express. If you buy from brick-and-mortar, return or exchange is much easier. When it comes to specs, the key dimensions are: cylinder diameter, extended length (pin-to-pin), retracted length. Then there is the choice of connection ends - yoke, T-tube, etc. If only replacing one of a pair of cylinders, then make sure all of the specs match exactly. Cylinders that use a pin yoke that screws onto the cylinder rod can allow for a small amount of length adjustment. Hope this helps.

 

[ddbackhoe]

Back-dragging or prying with forks. There’s not a lot of potential to bend rods using forks for lifting. It sounds like the OP needs a CTL and stop using the tractor as one.

I would think a JD 644 wheel loader or Cat 325 excavator would be more appropriate.

 

[Pontific8]

I have bought a few cylinders but never OEM. The biggest difference that I have found between a high and low quality cylinders is the rod and the seals. Oftentimes you get what you pay for when buying aftermarket. High quality rods are better steel, have better surface preparation, and may have multiple chrome platings. The idea is to keep rust away longer when not in use and weather exposed. However if the cylinder is stored in a retracted position when not in use, or use is frequent, then the rod is either automatically protected or is constantly being cleaned and lubed. I have purchased from my local Tractor Supply Co store, or online from various sites - do an internet search on "hydraulic cylinders". If you are looking for specific names, my quick list of online vendors includes Agri Supply (ASC), Agrimart, Quality Farm Supply, Surplus Center, Sloan Express. If you buy from brick-and-mortar, return or exchange is much easier. When it comes to specs, the key dimensions are: cylinder diameter, extended length (pin-to-pin), retracted length. Then there is the choice of connection ends - yoke, T-tube, etc. If only replacing one of a pair of cylinders, then make sure all of the specs match exactly. Cylinders that use a pin yoke that screws onto the cylinder rod can allow for a small amount of length adjustment. Hope this helps.

Amazon sells Magister cylinders from Ukraine!! I Upgraded my OEM 1" piston FEL curl cylinders with a pair of 2.25" (5 times more back-blading capacity) for less than $300. Now, I can pry, back-blade, RatchetRake clear and Extreme stump bucket away to my heart's content!!!

 

[4570Man]

I would think a JD 644 wheel loader or Cat 325 excavator would be more appropriate.

Size the machine to the job but a CTL is way more versatile than either of those pieces and a CTL is still way stronger and more durable than a compact tractor.

 

[Unclewilley]

I have bought a few cylinders but never OEM. The biggest difference that I have found between a high and low quality cylinders is the rod and the seals. Oftentimes you get what you pay for when buying aftermarket. High quality rods are better steel, have better surface preparation, and may have multiple chrome platings. The idea is to keep rust away longer when not in use and weather exposed. However if the cylinder is stored in a retracted position when not in use, or use is frequent, then the rod is either automatically protected or is constantly being cleaned and lubed. I have purchased from my local Tractor Supply Co store, or online from various sites - do an internet search on "hydraulic cylinders". If you are looking for specific names, my quick list of online vendors includes Agri Supply (ASC), Agrimart, Quality Farm Supply, Surplus Center, Sloan Express. If you buy from brick-and-mortar, return or exchange is much easier. When it comes to specs, the key dimensions are: cylinder diameter, extended length (pin-to-pin), retracted length. Then there is the choice of connection ends - yoke, T-tube, etc. If only replacing one of a pair of cylinders, then make sure all of the specs match exactly. Cylinders that use a pin yoke that screws onto the cylinder rod can allow for a small amount of length adjustment. Hope this helps.

Thanks for your reply!

I have been searching for an aftermarket cylinder with no luck. I've tried all the vendors you mentioned. It seems the Massey Ferguson bucket (DL125) was made by ARGO and the cylinder was designed to require make it virtually impossible to replace with anything other than OEM. I have found cylinders that closely match bore, stroke, rod diameter but NOTHING that matches the "Crosstube" End Mountings: Rod End: OD 60mm (2.36"), width 52mm (2.05"), Pin diameter 30mm (1.18"); Base End OD 60mm, Pin 30mm, Width 55mm (2.16").

 

[Jchonline]

This happened to me a few years back. My cylinder bent almost 45 degrees. Took it in and had it repaired for $500.00, only to find out that I could buy a brand new one for $600.00.. I was digging a French drain with a stump bucket and then dragging the trench in high 1st gear with no problem. The tractor would start to bog down giving me the time to back off. I got side tracked and had put it in low ,it didn't bog down and then it was to late.

Stump bucket on a tractor is a bad idea imo. They are built for skid steers. Skid steer with the loader arms fully down are braced by the entire frame/weight of the machine. On a tractor you have no such bracing.

 

[Jchonline]

Amazon sells Magister cylinders from Ukraine!! I Upgraded my OEM 1" piston FEL curl cylinders with a pair of 2.25" (5 times more back-blading capacity) for less than $300. Now, I can pry, back-blade, RatchetRake clear and Extreme stump bucket away to my heart's content!!!

You can still bend your FEL arms with a stump bucket.

 

[Leejohn]

Look at your other post.

 

[RickB]

Amazon sells Magister cylinders from Ukraine!! I Upgraded my OEM 1" piston FEL curl cylinders with a pair of 2.25" (5 times more back-blading capacity) for less than $300. Now, I can pry, back-blade, RatchetRake clear and Extreme stump bucket away to my heart's content!!!

For now.