Bucket Level Rod

[Klittle2616]

That sounds like a good outcome to me. My rod is long, which I like because I can see where the bucket is in both directions from level. I had paint for a while but it would wear where the back of the rod dragged on the tube then a little rust would get smeared in and it was hard to read. I tried spiral wrapping some aluminum tape and then covered the lower part with tuff heat shrink. Makes an easy to see marker and the heat shrink holds the tape away from the tube so it doesn't wear. I have had this on for two years now and it still looks new - lots of loader work too.

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gg

I like that idea

 

[iptman]

That sounds like a good outcome to me. My rod is long, which I like because I can see where the bucket is in both directions from level. I had paint for a while but it would wear where the back of the rod dragged on the tube then a little rust would get smeared in and it was hard to read. I tried spiral wrapping some aluminum tape and then covered the lower part with tuff heat shrink. Makes an easy to see marker and the heat shrink holds the tape away from the tube so it doesn't wear. I have had this on for two years now and it still looks new - lots of loader work too.

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gg

Totally doing this on my CX2510. I couldn't bring myself to cut the rod down and my ring of electrical tape is already wearing off. I might actually mark bucket level along with 2 and 4 inches down so when I dig I can have consistent runs into the ground.

 

[tman1020]

That sounds like a good outcome to me. My rod is long, which I like

Yep. Having a long rod does have it’s benefits.

gg

 

[ovrszd]

The service dept said it was in fact upside down. He said it will probably stick out now when the bucket is level. So I will likely paint or tape a mark at level.

Yep, it's obvious in the first pic that there's more rod above the mount point than below. So now you will have rod exposed when level as Gordon does.

Here's an idea taken from my old Ford TLB. Poor pic but if you study it closely you can see the top end of the leveler tube is cutaway. When rolling the bucket back you can see the end of the rod coming and are able to stop in the right spot with rod end flush with tube end. Also if wanting to roll bucket forward a little you can still see the rod and judge how far you've moved it.

Let us know how it works for you after flipping the tube. Thanks for the follow up.

 

[WranglerX]

I guess with the stated objection to rod and tube method, one could easily adapt a DRO to show specifically at what angle bucket is at... Though some how it would seem to violate the KISS principle....

Dale

 

[ovrszd]

In the OP's situation, where I had to change things anyway, I'd build a notched rod system where the rod simply slides thru a slotted bracket. Bend a ^ in the rod at level.

 

[iptman]

I decided to mark a tape line and paint below "bucket level" on mine. Hopefully the industrial enamel will hold up.

 

[bcjmmac]

I cut mine off - didn’t find it was useful

 

[Gordon Gould]

Yep, it's obvious in the first pic that there's more rod above the mount point than below. So now you will have rod exposed when level as Gordon does.

Here's an idea taken from my old Ford TLB. Poor pic but if you study it closely you can see the top end of the leveler tube is cutaway. When rolling the bucket back you can see the end of the rod coming and are able to stop in the right spot with rod end flush with tube end. Also if wanting to roll bucket forward a little you can still see the rod and judge how far you've moved it.

Let us know how it works for you after flipping the tube. Thanks for the follow up.


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I like that system the best so far. Never seen one like that before and will keep it in mind for sure.

gg

 

[Threepoint]

That sounds like a good outcome to me. My rod is long, which I like because I can see where the bucket is in both directions from level. I had paint for a while but it would wear where the back of the rod dragged on the tube then a little rust would get smeared in and it was hard to read. I tried spiral wrapping some aluminum tape and then covered the lower part with tuff heat shrink. Makes an easy to see marker and the heat shrink holds the tape away from the tube so it doesn't wear. I have had this on for two years now and it still looks new - lots of loader work too.

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gg

Very clever, Gordon!