Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen

[MossRoad]

That looks awsome! Now we have to get you posting bigger pictures. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Spiffy]

That looks awesome! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I'm convinced that a cutting torch shows when I'm out of practice even more than the AC buzzbox. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[J_J]

Thanks for your nice comments.

I have been wanting to do the nice large pictures that some of you guys present. I am assuming that you have to have a web site to do this, or reference a web site.

I am dreaming up attachments to go on the end to replace the bucket. The single grapple is just one of them. I think my tree shear will fit on the end also.

 

[MossRoad]

When I get the pictures off of my camera onto my computer the file size is about 1.5meg and 1600 x 1200 viewing size (approximately). They are in JPEG format.

First, I make a working copy of the picture so I don't mess up the original and work with that copy for downloading.

Second, I use a program called Paint Shop Pro and save the working copy at a lower quality, usually about 30% of the original. While that sounds extreme, the picture still looks fine on the web. That cuts the file size down from 1.5Meg to about 200K. Still too large for TBN.

Third, I RESIZE the image by 50%, which get is near 800X600, which looks nice on most screens. That usually brings the file size down to between 60K and 90K, well under the 100K limit for TBN.

I then attach it to a post just like you do. There are several programs out there that are free that do the same things. I think one is called Infraview(sp?).

 

[MossRoad]

I bought a 1" hole saw and had to get a different arbor. Less than $13.00 total.

I used it tonight to drill holes in the brackets for where the lift cylinder will attach and the holes in the bottom end of the main boom. Worked great, even with my crummy drill press. One note: I got to the last hole and the thing wouldn't make it through the last 1/8". I figured I dulled it out. Turns out I didn't clear one of the slugs from that thin plate that is on top of the 1/4 tubing and it was wedged in there and wouldn't let me finish. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I removed the plug and finished the cut with no problem. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I also bought a 1" X 6" grade 8 bolt, two flat washers and a locking nylon nut just to see how it will fit. It fits through the 1" holes with some slop. Hopefully in the next two weeks I can get up to a steel supplier with that bolt and see how it fits in some 1"ID X 1/4" wall tubing. If it fits nice, I will buy some tubing and use bolts for my pins. If it is too sloppy, I will see how 1" round stock or 63/64 round stock fits.

One thing about bolts... take 6" bolts, for example. The threads are about 2.5 inches long and the rest of the bolt is smooth. Do you think I should buy much longer bolts than needed so that the smooth part goes through everything and the threads sit just at the edge? This would make them more pin-like. The way they are now, only 3.5" of the pin is smooth and 2.5 inches are threaded. I'm worried about strange wear patterns that could occur inside the bushings. If I used bolts that were long enough to make smooth pin surface all the way through I think that would be better. I could always trim off any extra thread past the nut.

What do you think?

 

[KentT]

Moss,

I would use bolts long enough to where the threads were not transmitting the pressure/stress to the bushings. You can always cut off the extra threads, or simply use double nuts instead of lock nuts...

 

[J_J]

David, Yes, get the bolts long enough to go through every thing without any threads chewing things up. Are you going to weld outside support bushings on the plates? If you are using any long bushings, make sure that you have grease fitting installed.

I checked out some hole cutters, and found out some things.The quality ranges from good, better, best, and very best. The basic hole saw had straight teeth, and the one that you bought have offset teeth. They also make some with carbide teeth. I bought one of these, and will be checking out how well it works. It cost $18.00 . The annular carbide cutters, will cut better, but cost about $95.00 . They are used for drilling through things like I-Beams, using those magnetic hole-hawg drills. Some people say the trick is to keep the bit cool with water, kerosine or cutting fluid.

I will probably use a mixture of bolts and pins.

 

[MossRoad]

The plans that I have call for bushings on the outside, but the big 1" pins are then pinned through the outside bushings so they can't rotate. This would seem to indicate that the outside bushings are there for supports and strengthening so the pins have more than just the 1/4" wall to rest on. So, I will be using them where the plans call for them.

One more thing I noticed about that plans, and maybe I should re-read them again, is that they call for lots of 1" holes and welding of the 1"ID tubing inside of the 4"x4" tubing. I don't see how I could weld around the entire 1"ID tubing inside those square tubes. At best, I could only weld 180 degrees. I'm thinking of making the holes 1.5" and fitting the 1"ID tubes inside and weld from the outside, with beveled edges as we talked about the other day, then grinding the area flush. That seems it would be stronger for two reasons... 1. the weld would be 360 degrees around the 1"ID tubing and 2. the 1"ID tubing would be supported by the 1/4" wall of the square tubing AND the weld, not JUST the 180 degrees of weld that the plan calls for.

 

[J_J]

David, You are correct on most every thing you said, except I would not make the hole any larger than 1 in. That pin and hole set up, has to be aligned perfectly. I found out the hard way, when I attempted to hook up the hydraulic cylinder, and the bushing was skewed a little and that make the cylinder not center up. The trick here is to have the hydraulic cylinder on the pin before you tack weld. You probably know to tack all around, or the heat will pull or twist the bracket one way or the other if you try to weld one side completely. On the bushings on the inside of the 4x4, I could only weld about 180 degrees on the inside. Your idea of making the hole larger would work only if you could put the bushing inside the 4x4 with two 1.5 in heavy duty washers. then push the washers to the inside of the 4x4 and weld 1/2 of the washer to the bushing, then role the bushing 180 degrees, and weld the rest of the washer to the bushing. You would have to center the 1 in bushings in the 1 1/2 in hole. Now you have some metal around the bushing to weld the bushing, washer, and 4x4. Then you have to grind every thing flush so the dipper arm or what ever will slide on the 4x4. That is a lot or work. I would just bevel the bushings and the hole, and lay a good bead around the hole, and do the 180 weld on the inside. See if this drawing makes any sense. Red is the welding points.

 

[J_J]

David, On the picture resizing, I do pretty much the same thing using HP Photo & Imaging. I do the resizing, then change the dpi down to about 50, and then adjust the size to stay under 100k. but the picture is stil small. I mostly use jpeg.