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MossRoad
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Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen
- Thread starter MossRoad
- Start date
- Views: 132566
BillCroasmun
Gold Member
Moving right along MR! It's taking shape very nicely. You and JJ are taking some nice inspirational photo's for guys like me. I've played around with the idea of making a minihoe for the 180 for a while. The one Beechwood posted some finished pictures of was great but left me with some design questions that you and JJ are clarifying on your builds. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
pequeajim
Platinum Member
For sure things look really good! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Nice job David...
Nice job David...
J_J
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David, when you are welding the bushings in the areas that need them, I would recommend that you bevel the ends of the bushings and turn the heat up to get the weld down through the 1/8 plate , and weld the bushing , 1/8 plate, and 1/4 box tubing at the same time. I think that 1/8 plate is only welded around the edges. If you can get to the backside of the bushings, weld that also. I also drilled holes for grease fittings in the bushings and through the box tubing.
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MossRoad
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I agree. I will need a tool to bevel with as a grinder won't get into the holes in the square tubing. I can bevel the bushing tubing with a bench grinder. I am glad I stopped and read the instructions. The majority of the holes I need are 1" and I didn't buy a 1" hole saw bit. I only bought 1.5" bits. I'll be making another trip to the tool store.
J_J
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You might as well get a good 1 in reamer, I had to use it many times when using 1 in pin stock. .
J_J
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This is what I call a "fronthoe" , or grapple, just because it's up front.
I was playing around with the hydraulic cylinders today, and used the aux circuit to test them. I think my back cyl is to large, it want let the hoe come to the vertical position. It is a 3.5X16, one end is clevis, and the other end is tube type. It has plenty of power, but maybe I can live with non vertical in the stowed position.
I was playing around with the hydraulic cylinders today, and used the aux circuit to test them. I think my back cyl is to large, it want let the hoe come to the vertical position. It is a 3.5X16, one end is clevis, and the other end is tube type. It has plenty of power, but maybe I can live with non vertical in the stowed position.
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KentT
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JJ,
That grapple (fronthoe) looks like it would be a great tool for dealing with trees and brush -- much better than a bucket and thumb combination...
That grapple (fronthoe) looks like it would be a great tool for dealing with trees and brush -- much better than a bucket and thumb combination...
OP
MossRoad
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Cool! Looks like a T-Rex.
I don't know if you noticed the brackets that I am going to use where the boom arm attaches to the pivot point. Look at this picture. They are the rusty ones in the lower left. I got a new cutting torch head and cut them off the bracket they were welded to( I haven't torched anything in 20+ years and a person who shall remain nameless plugged my old torch head with slag that last time he borrowed my rig. I forgot how easy it is. 30 seconds and 8" of 1/2 inch steel plate is like going through butter /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif).
I got them from the salvage yard. They are longer than what the plans call for. I am going to flip them around from what is in the picture and put the skinny side up and the fat side down. The skinny side up will attach the lift cylinder. The fat side will have room for two sets of holes. One out far for maximum lift and one in closer under the cylinder for maximum depth. This is because I noticed the same thing you show in your picture when I did my mock-up. The two hole setup should allow me to either lift a foot higher or dig a foot deeper, but not both at the same time.
Another option might be to put two sets of holes for the far end of the lift cylinder. That would allow me to lift higher, but the depth is always going to be limited by the relationship of the cylinder and boom attachment points on the pivot point brackets.
I am glad I went with plans that have the bent boom arm instead of a straight boom arm. It limits your lift height, but really improves your depth and how close you can dig to the tractor. I don't think there will be any way to hit the bucket against the pivot point, but I will be sure to limit the travel of things so that the unit cannot hit itself. I am glad you convinced me to put the cylinder on top of the boom. That really opens things up under it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I don't know if you noticed the brackets that I am going to use where the boom arm attaches to the pivot point. Look at this picture. They are the rusty ones in the lower left. I got a new cutting torch head and cut them off the bracket they were welded to( I haven't torched anything in 20+ years and a person who shall remain nameless plugged my old torch head with slag that last time he borrowed my rig. I forgot how easy it is. 30 seconds and 8" of 1/2 inch steel plate is like going through butter /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif).
I got them from the salvage yard. They are longer than what the plans call for. I am going to flip them around from what is in the picture and put the skinny side up and the fat side down. The skinny side up will attach the lift cylinder. The fat side will have room for two sets of holes. One out far for maximum lift and one in closer under the cylinder for maximum depth. This is because I noticed the same thing you show in your picture when I did my mock-up. The two hole setup should allow me to either lift a foot higher or dig a foot deeper, but not both at the same time.
Another option might be to put two sets of holes for the far end of the lift cylinder. That would allow me to lift higher, but the depth is always going to be limited by the relationship of the cylinder and boom attachment points on the pivot point brackets.
I am glad I went with plans that have the bent boom arm instead of a straight boom arm. It limits your lift height, but really improves your depth and how close you can dig to the tractor. I don't think there will be any way to hit the bucket against the pivot point, but I will be sure to limit the travel of things so that the unit cannot hit itself. I am glad you convinced me to put the cylinder on top of the boom. That really opens things up under it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
J_J
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If I don't weld for a while, I have to practice a bit before it looks sort of decent. Yep, that torch is fast. I have a 20 yr old craftsman torch, and was looking for cutting tips, found out it was made by Harris . I was trying to cut some steel many yrs ago, wasn't working out, later I found out why, I was using an acetylean tip on propane. Didn't know you had to change them. The things you learn over time.
Here is a picture of the PT and fronthoe.
Here is a picture of the PT and fronthoe.
