Backhoe Build A Backhoe For PT425... It Could Happen

[J_J]

This is a grapple arm assembly that I built to replace the bucket arm for more detailed work, picking, crushing, etc.

You seem to have most of the steel that you will need. You know the power of the unit is determined by the size of the hydraulic cylinders. I have different sizes and shapes on mine. What ever you can find to keep the cost down. I even cut and welded new pieces on the ends of the cylinders rods to make things fit.

 

[J_J]

This thumb was laser cut. All I had to do was weld. It would have to be sized, length and width to fit correctly.

 

[J_J]

cdp-backhoe.com

It is a Canadian company .

The thumb was in kit form.

Some if my backhoe parts were from there also.

 

[KentT]

Thanks, JJ!

 

[MossRoad]

Thanks for the great pictures, J_J. The plans I have call for 1"pins made from 1" Rod. I was also thinking of using grade 8 bolts, based on our experiences with the Power Trac and its usage of bolts instead of pins. It would eliminate any cutting of rod material.

One thing the plans mentioned was that the bushings and rod end were drilled and pinned to keep the rod from rotating. That way, only the tube will move around the rod while the rod is stationary. Is this necessary? Does it matter if the pin rotates? I think if the pin rotates, the end bushings will take all the wear. If the pin is stationary, the bushings will never take any wear. The entire surface of the tube and rod will take the wear, which seems like it would spread out the wear area. Also, if the rod moves, the grease will never provide any lubricant as it will be moving with the rod, not letting the rod slip on it. I'd have to grease the bushings, wouldn't I?

If that is the case, if I use bolts instead of rods, what could I do to prevent the bolt from turning? I suppose I could pin the bolt through the bushing on one end. What do you think?

 

[marrt]

Another option for those interested in getting a Hoe is to consider buying an older self-propelled Backhoe like a Dig It or one of the other common models. I have a Dig It and have been very pleased with it. Some people complain they don’t have enough power or that they scoot around because they aren’t heavy enough. However, the power issue can be addressed pretty easily (within reason). And the “walking” problem can be addressed by hooking it to your truck or tractor (although I haven't needed to do that yet). Frankly, these devices are a lot like the bucket on your tractor. When I first got my PT, I was a little disappointed because I couldn’t scoop a full bucket of dirt. However, I soon learned this was more a question of skill than tractor capability. The same is true with these hoes. People who go to the rental place and try one are often very disappointed. That’s because they take more skill and finesse to use effectively versus a big hoe. A big hoe can be forgiving on operator skill because it has more power and weight. If you are used to a big hoe, you will definitely be disappointed. However, with patience, practice and common sense, they seem to work pretty good for most common projects. I wouldn’t advise buying one to dig out a basement (although I’ve seen people use a PT to do that /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif), but I’ve been very impressed with mine. You can often find them on eBay for around $3k in older used condition. They seem to resale well too.

 

[dwkdnvr]

FWIW, HarborFreight is now carrying what looks to be a clone of the Northern Tool unit Rick referenced. Only $3k, whch isn't bad at all for a complete unit, but is still a bit pricey if you look at it as the basis of a project

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93167

 

[SnowRidge]

This is completely off topic, but what the hey.....

I wonder if some jurisdications require a license plate and all that jazz on vehicle towed implements? What a hassle that would be. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Lots of folks tow log splitters and cement mixers around here. I wonder if it will be like that? Good point to bring up. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[SnowRidge]

TN will probably be the last place to go under. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Right now, you don't even need tags on any kind of trailer, as long as it is noncommercial or farm use. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

A lot of the commercial guys don't have them either. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[J_J]

David, Most of the cylinders that I use have cross tubes, and some even have grease fittings. When I put my kit together, I drilled a hole for a grease fittings on the cross tubes that are welded in. I also tighten down on the 1 in lock nut so the cross tube on the cylinder will roll around the 1 in bolt. On the cylinders that have ears instead of cross tubes, I put a spacer in between the ears and outside the ears if needed. to avoid side shift. Yes, keep grease in the cross tubes. As far as the bolt turning, once you put every thing together, put a tack weld on two sides of the 1 in lock nut. You will never lose it and can just remove the 1 in bolt to remove the cylinder. If you are going to use pins, you have to drill a 1/4 in hole in the pin and collar, and use a 1/4 bolt and lock nut to hold the pin stationary. You only have to drill one side.

 

[marrt]

My hoe doesn't even have a place for a tag. However, it's funny that you brought this up. When I bought it and was pulling it home, a cop got behind me. The same thought occured to me at that time. Apparently, there was no problem as he went on by. However, this is the govt we're talking about. If they haven't found a way to tax it yet, just wait a month.

 

[Taylortractornut]

Most if not all states dont require a tag for any towed equipment suchs as Splitters pumps,towed backhoes and chippers. Or combine header trailers.

 

[MossRoad]

<font color="blue"> As far as the bolt turning, once you put every thing together, put a tack weld on two sides of the 1 in lock nut. You will never lose it and can just remove the 1 in bolt to remove the cylinder. </font>

J_J,
Where's the icon for "smacking myself in the foreheaed?" Sometimes the obvious just escapes me. Thanks for the tip! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Taylortractornut]

How bout on one of the flats of the hex head on the bolts head laying a section of key stock a bit wider than the flat is long and tack it on the ends. THis makes for a very rapid removal and the nut doesnt have to be welded to the boom. Lots of equpiment has this set up I see it alot on skid steers and other machine. One proble with weld ing the nut the threads my wear over tim and the tacks have to be removed. With the flat wit hthe key stack tacked beside it you just take off the nut and drive out the bolt.

 

[MossRoad]

So I could put the bolt and nut in, then tighten it up a bit until the bolt head is flush with the surface it is going through. Then lay a piece of square stock steel, say 1/2" X 1/2" flush against one of the six sides of the bolt head and tack it on both ends? Then I could thighten the nut to whatever torque I decide and the square stock will keep the bolt from turning? That sounds cool, too. Another good suggestion. Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Highridge]

That's what PT did on my mini-hoe. Works Good!

 

[MossRoad]

Anyone got a picture of that?

 

[Taylortractornut]

Yep and it works great on a pivot point, as the nut head and bolt head both rotate with each other. Case did this with their first skid steer backhoes. It workd great when chaning pivots just one wrench needed.

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

<font color="red">a piece of square stock steel, say 1/2" X 1/2" flush against one of the six sides </font>

Naw: Get yourself a cheapo box wrench, put it on the bolt head and weld the wrench in place. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif