Building a 3320

   / Building a 3320 #11  
JC,

Have you had a chance to demo the 3320? When I bought mine I was driving it around the dealers site and it was all flat ground. I brought it home where I have some moderate slopes on my property and I was very surprised just how tipsy it felt and shortly there after I had it on its side. I also had my backhoe on but it went over so quick and I dont feel where I flipped it was much of a slope. I'm not sure if any other 3320 owners feel that it feels tipsy to them but just something to consider and as always this is just an opinion.

G Sweet
 
   / Building a 3320
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I have had my 2520 on three wheels a couple of times. I know the 3320 is higher off the ground and I hope the filled tires will help. Thanks for the heads up.
I ordered the 3320 yesterday.
3320 E-hydro, cruise, 3rd scv, lines run on the loader for my grapple, air seat
300cx with hd bucket and toothbar, deluxe hood guard, larger R4's and power beyond. $20K was the price. I called back today a deleted power beyond and got the diverter package. JC

Anyone know what length cylinders to get for top-n-tilt?
 
   / Building a 3320 #13  
sweeter said:
JC,

Have you had a chance to demo the 3320? When I bought mine I was driving it around the dealers site and it was all flat ground. I brought it home where I have some moderate slopes on my property and I was very surprised just how tipsy it felt and shortly there after I had it on its side. I also had my backhoe on but it went over so quick and I dont feel where I flipped it was much of a slope. I'm not sure if any other 3320 owners feel that it feels tipsy to them but just something to consider and as always this is just an opinion.

G Sweet

That's a concern of mine. I am considering buying either a new 3320 with MMM and the TLB implements, or a separate used TLB and continue using my Deere 755 for mowing. I have some hills on my property and the 755 with a MMM is never tippy. I've put it on three wheels when using the loader to push a tree w/o the rear ballast box. I always wear the belt...well 90% of the time.

Did you have just a loader backhoe on your 3320?. How much damage did it do?
 
Last edited:
   / Building a 3320 #14  
RollTideRam said:
I ordered the 3320 yesterday.
3320 E-hydro, cruise, 3rd scv, lines run on the loader for my grapple, air seat
300cx with hd bucket and toothbar, deluxe hood guard, larger R4's and power beyond. $20K was the price. I called back today a deleted power beyond and got the diverter package. JC
QUOTE]

Roll Tide,

Did you order it from Coker?
We'll be up in Guntersville in a couple of weeks and I always drop in on Bo and the crew everytime we're there. The wife loves to cruise all those antique places in Hartselle too.
 
   / Building a 3320 #15  
RollTideRam said:
I have had my 2520 on three wheels a couple of times. I know the 3320 is higher off the ground and I hope the filled tires will help. Thanks for the heads up.
I ordered the 3320 yesterday.
3320 E-hydro, cruise, 3rd scv, lines run on the loader for my grapple, air seat
300cx with hd bucket and toothbar, deluxe hood guard, larger R4's and power beyond. $20K was the price. I called back today a deleted power beyond and got the diverter package. JC

Anyone know what length cylinders to get for top-n-tilt?

JC its up to you. but i learned from experence. you said you ordered a tooth bar. if i were you i would get a markham tooth bar instead. i have a JD bar. i know you once said you had a bad back. this thing will work you to death. its way over built. even for a 3 or 4000 seris tractor. it weghs a ton. and you wont want to take it on and off. and everyone says it fits to tight. i know mine did. pry it off and hammer it on. and JD's was 300 $ and only has 6 teeth and markhams has 7 and weighes hafe. and cost 231$ and its well made you ant going to break it. just trying to help. cause i been there and done that...;) go look at my pictues in the other forum and you will see how well the Markham is made. 80 pounds verses 180 pounds

Chris.....:)
 
   / Building a 3320
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Roll Tide,

Did you order it from Coker?
We'll be up in Guntersville in a couple of weeks and I always drop in on Bo and the crew everytime we're there. The wife loves to cruise all those antique places in Hartselle too.[/QUOTE]

Yes, Coker is my dealer. Being the only small dealer left in my part of the country, I seem to buy something new way too often. JC
 
   / Building a 3320
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Chris2520 said:
JC its up to you. but i learned from experence. you said you ordered a tooth bar. if i were you i would get a markham tooth bar instead. i have a JD bar. i know you once said you had a bad back. this thing will work you to death. its way over built. even for a 3 or 4000 seris tractor. it weghs a ton. and you wont want to take it on and off. and everyone says it fits to tight. i know mine did. pry it off and hammer it on. and JD's was 300 $ and only has 6 teeth and markhams has 7 and weighes hafe. and cost 231$ and its well made you ant going to break it. just trying to help. cause i been there and done that...;) go look at my pictues in the other forum and you will see how well the Markham is made. 80 pounds verses 180 pounds

Chris.....:)
The only reason I went with the deere is because from my dealer, it was the same price as the Markham I have on my 2520. I had forgot how heavy you said it was. JC
 
   / Building a 3320 #18  
If I remember correctly the mid-length hydraulic link from CCM is a good fit (18-26.5). They were good to deal with--I hope for your sake that the supply is in (I had to wait a month or so).
B8fish
 
   / Building a 3320 #19  
sweeter said:
JC,

Have you had a chance to demo the 3320? When I bought mine I was driving it around the dealers site and it was all flat ground. I brought it home where I have some moderate slopes on my property and I was very surprised just how tipsy it felt and shortly there after I had it on its side. I also had my backhoe on but it went over so quick and I dont feel where I flipped it was much of a slope. I'm not sure if any other 3320 owners feel that it feels tipsy to them but just something to consider and as always this is just an opinion.

G Sweet

It's not just the 3320, it's the whole 3000 series. If you load the tires, use ballast when you need it and don't transport things high you will get used to it.
I've had my 3720 cab (an extra 600lbs up high so it's even tippier) tilted the rated 15 degrees while mowing (No loading in my tires yet) and it feels very tippy but hasn't gone over (If I hit a chuck hole maybe it would). These are only rated for 15 degrees anyway.

I have had it feel tippy with a fully loaded grapple (with trees in it) with ballast I've had it on three wheels quite a bit.

I just got two 6" (Super wide) Unverferth wheel extensions to make my rear footprint a foot wider (in the narrow position) - Haven't tried them yet but am dying to. I have a feeling a 72" (vs 59+") footprint will make it feel stable as a rock. My tires are also now loaded R3's (Again haven't tried them yet).

There are a million posts here about feeling 'tippy'. I would get a tilt meter (I have two) - They look kind of funny but it's nice to actually be able to know how steep a slope is. Some that don't look too steep actually are. This measures side to side tilt. I've never had a tippyness issue when going straignt up or down the slope. Supposedly the ANSI rating for Compact Utility tractors is 15 degrees. I get nervous anything over 10.
 
   / Building a 3320 #20  
Yourkie,

I had the bh and loader on, It went over quick, it did no cosmetic damage. I did have to open the motor up to get pressure off the pistons since oil went into the cylinders, but it was running again in 2 hours and smoked like crazy for 5 minutes after I got it restarted. Good to go and no problems.


G Sweet
 

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