Building a 3point backhoe subframe

[Bigbear]

Larry, I am most humbled, and yes, I am extremely satisfied with this project. I now have many, many hours on the backhoe, and all but the paint is bulletproof. The adjustable links were the only way I could make it stable and yet allow for some adjustment. Thank you. Bear

Mud Puppy, Thanks, I really appreciate that, my next project is a simple cable plow (for CAT5) that will fit the backhoe bucket. Thank you. Bear

Thorndike, Thanks, yes, it was a 3pt backhoe to start with, a Chinese brand with a few flaws, but nothing a smoke wrench, welder, and a few wrenches couldn't fix.
Thanks, BEAR

If I can be of any help to others with a backhoe project, just let me know, and I will be more than glad to share my experiences with this one. BEAR /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[3RRL]

Bigbear,

You should be very proud of yourself. That is one heck of project and it is a super good addition/modification that makes the backhoe attachement 10 times (figure of speech) better than just the 3 pt attachment. I really like the adjustable turnbuckles to "fit" the backhoe into position. Nice job documenting your progress too.

I am trying to design the same thing for my Kama 554. So far, we have similar attachment points leading off the tractor. That is, from in front, under the frame/axle and to the hitch plate area. My backhoe is different than yours so my connections to it will differ. Another difference is my design plans are to continue utilizing the lower lift arms and the top link in additon to the subframe. It will ultimately give me a 7 pt attachment when done. (overkill?)

I had some questions:
How long does it take you to remove or install your backhoe with this set-up?
From the pictures, it appears that where the subframe comes out the back of the tractor and across to the tow hitch plate, it prevents your lower lift arms from going downward? Is that correct?

Can you use other implements on the tractor now, or does the entire subframe have to come off the tractor completely?

Thanks for you help,

 

[Bigbear]

Thanks Rob, I tried many design options that would leave the sub-frame on the tractor and still allow the use of different implements, but no luck. In order to allow the lift arms movement, the sub-frame would have to sit a lot lower to the ground than I was willing to live with. It takes about 30 min. to install, or remove by myself, about 15 min. with help. Being that it takes soooo long to hitch up the backhoe, I have been trying to convince my wife we now need another tractor just for mowing, tilling, etc /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif not working so far. Hope this helps. BEAR

 

[rebel300r]

Bigbear,

You really inspired me. Took me a couple of months but I finally got mine together. I worked it out so that the subframe works around the MMM and acts as the mechanism to raise and lower it. I have about 5 hours of backhoe work in and it seems to be holding up on my 4120. I will post several photos in the next posts. Thanks again.

Scott

 

[rebel300r]

Bigbear,

You really inspired me. Took me a couple of months but I finally got mine together. I worked it out so that the subframe works around the MMM and acts as the mechanism to raise and lower it. I have about 5 hours of backhoe work in and it seems to be holding up on my 4120. I will post several photos in the next posts. Thanks again.

Scott

 

[rebel300r]

Leftside

 

[rebel300r]

Leftside

 

[rebel300r]

Rightside

 

[rebel300r]

Rightside

 

[rebel300r]

Rear. I was able to design it so that the 3 pt arms still work (work better than they did with the Deere MMM lifting mechanism). I have to take the 3pt back off when mounting the hoe.