Building A Bridge

   / Building A Bridge #71  
Toiyabe said:
Maybe for thin cold-rolled members, but not for thick hot-rolled members like those used in this bridge.


Hmm... are you trying to tell ME something about DIN standards ? :p


Toiyabe said:
Anyway, the point is escaping me here. I wanted to explain to you why what you are proposing to do is dangerous. If I haven't convinced you by now, I don't think I ever will.

No, you didnt... And you dont accept my European engineering because it doesnt taste to your American mouth...... :) So i think its better to quit right here for both of us. ;)
 
   / Building A Bridge #72  
What does a used bridge sell for anyway?

Have I stumbled onto Bridgebynet by accident?
 
   / Building A Bridge #73  
dullpain said:
koop - You should be sued for starting this thread!!! Nice looking bridge , when it's installed give me a call . I'll drive up there and test it out , if it fails I won't sue you.....

I agree. The only help I would have asked for was the paint. Latex or enamel?
 
   / Building A Bridge #74  
Woo-Hoo!!!

I can offer advice in this thread now too.

Never paint exposed steel with a latex paint. It won't last. Latex works best on a porous surface. Give it a good cleanup & paint with a rust-reducing primer, then a couple of coats of a quality alkyd enamel & it'll look good for a couple of years. (Unfortunately, no paint lasts forever outdoors...)
 
   / Building A Bridge #75  
I am on year 4+ with steel columns (4x4x3/16) painted while lightly rusty. I used Rustoleum paint designed for painting rusty metal without a primer. The metal is out in the weather now for a bit over 4 years and looks like a new paint job. When/if it needs more painit I will most likely use the same product. It is a hammertone textured finish not regular gloss. It is glossy but not smooth and flat.

Pat
 
   / Building A Bridge #76  
Now I know what kind of paint to use. If only somebody would give me a bridge, I would be in 7th heaven.
 
   / Building A Bridge #77  
TRUKFXR said:
Now I know what kind of paint to use. If only somebody would give me a bridge, I would be in 7th heaven.

I have seen several old bridges obsoleted by new wider ones built parallel to the old. I have speculated as to the prospects for buying one and getting it trucked to my place. Most have been of steel (or iron for all I know, I did no testing) trestle type. Concern for moving expenses was an inhibiting factor but I didn't really get a quote so maybe it would not be prohibitive.

Not too far from me there is a fairly long old railroad bridge (trestle type) that was converted to automotive use after the railroad abandoned it. Someone set fire to the wood deck (after a spat with a lady friend who lived on the opposite side, ruining it for vehicular traffic when he burned his bridge behind him) but it was rebuilt with a concrete deck and remains in service across the South Canadian River connecting Wanette, Oklahoma with Byars, Oklahoma. Of course it is one lane and an interesting drive as it spans maybe 300 yards and is understandably narrow.

I expect since it was built for trains that it has some reserve strength when handling automotive traffic where there is seldom a car waiting while another crosses in the opposite direction.

It is a target for some in the pastime of geocaching.

Pat
 
   / Building A Bridge #78  
Renze,

It is not the American part of his mouth that is speaking, nor the European part of your hand offering assistance. Thanks for offering to help the fella out.

I have met way more Europeans than Americans with the perspective of Toiyabe, and I live in the US(albeit in a University town).

Thanks again for offering to help the fella.
Chris
 
   / Building A Bridge #79  
dynasim said:
I have met way more Europeans than Americans with the perspective of Toiyabe, and I live in the US(albeit in a University town).

The Europeans you meet in a university town are mostly students, who usually just know their pre-chewed theoretical approach. As soon as they get into business and have to actually WORK for their money, they realise that only those who take risk and responsibility, are the ones that earn money in a business. The others get strangled by the competition in a healthy free market economy.

...i'm just a gearhead in a small invention driven company, hence my pragmatic approach. ;)
 
   / Building A Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#80  
Shaley, Half the bridge will be in Madison county, the other half in Greene county. I contacted CBI who said their records on older structures are not very organized so it would be difficult to find the original plans. Basically they are not willing to do the leg work.

Patrick_g, you are the first person to address the fact that any engineer will just be making educated guesses about the bridge even if they are standing in front of it. A great point.

Dullpain, sorry I added to your pain. Get ready to pack your bags, the bridge will hopefully be set in about a month.

2manyrocks, The bridge cost just over $30,000 delivered from about 75 miles away. The other option we looked at was a 60' precast concrete superstructure which was about $50,000. The abutments would have been in the water which was undesirable.

Defective, since we are talking paint.... The current plan is to use an iron oxide primer for most areas and then an industrial grade enamel for a top coat. For the heavily rusted areas I am thinking I will try POR-15. Do you have any experience with the product?

Renze, Toyaibe, Kendall69, dynasim, Thanks for all the input. Remember, it does not hurt to speculate, guess and discuss, that is what this forum is about. It only hurts to act on pure conjecture.

The first footer has been poured, 17' x 8' x 4'. Two mats of rebar 12" on center. About 21 yards of VDOT A-3 mix. All work is being preformed by a licensed, pre-qualified VDOT contractor.
 

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