OutbackL130
Silver Member
I've decided a small front end loader would be an invaluable asset around my 3.5 acre property and fabrication shop. The plan is to build one for my john deere L130, which I realize is an ambitious task given it being such a lighter duty jd. With that said it does have a heavy duty enough frame to handle a loader and I am willing to modify the tractor to make this work. I have already upgraded the transaxle to take care of the hydro failure these units are known for and have been using it frequently to rake my 600ft gravel driveway with a harrow for the past 9 years.
I will only need to lift around 500lbs max plus the weight of the loader. I will use the loader mainly for unloading dirt/gravel from my trailer, spreading gravel on the driveway and filling in ruts with dirt.
I want to make the bucket removable and able to attach a set of forklift forks on the front to carry pallets in and out of my fabrication shop. I want to be able to leave the deck on in conjunction with the front end loader as I still will use my l130 for mowing. The hydraulic pump will either run off the electric PTO or I will fabricate a bracket to mount a pulley on the fan side of the engine.
I'm back from a 2 day marathon reading everything I can on the internet about building a front end loader. Still have a few specific questions.
1. What size tubing to use for such a light duty FEL? Would 3 x 2 x 1/8" rectangle work for the main verticle bars and 2"x 1/8" square for the loader arms?
2. Are bushings typically used or not at the loader arm pivots and if so which kind works best?
3. What is the best control valve to use?
4. The older garden tractors you see having front end loaders such as a john deere 318, do they have power steering? How difficult will turning be without ps?
5. I read that some people upgrade the front hubs from bushings to actual trailer spindle hubs with wheel bearings. Has upgrade the cast iron front axle to one from a more heavy duty garden tractor ever been done before?
I will only need to lift around 500lbs max plus the weight of the loader. I will use the loader mainly for unloading dirt/gravel from my trailer, spreading gravel on the driveway and filling in ruts with dirt.
I want to make the bucket removable and able to attach a set of forklift forks on the front to carry pallets in and out of my fabrication shop. I want to be able to leave the deck on in conjunction with the front end loader as I still will use my l130 for mowing. The hydraulic pump will either run off the electric PTO or I will fabricate a bracket to mount a pulley on the fan side of the engine.
I'm back from a 2 day marathon reading everything I can on the internet about building a front end loader. Still have a few specific questions.
1. What size tubing to use for such a light duty FEL? Would 3 x 2 x 1/8" rectangle work for the main verticle bars and 2"x 1/8" square for the loader arms?
2. Are bushings typically used or not at the loader arm pivots and if so which kind works best?
3. What is the best control valve to use?
4. The older garden tractors you see having front end loaders such as a john deere 318, do they have power steering? How difficult will turning be without ps?
5. I read that some people upgrade the front hubs from bushings to actual trailer spindle hubs with wheel bearings. Has upgrade the cast iron front axle to one from a more heavy duty garden tractor ever been done before?