DieselPower
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2006
- Messages
- 2,756
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- Fairfield, PA
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- JD 3020, JD 4230, JD 7410, JD 2440, MF 750, NH LS170
Reloading is rather simple if you think about it in steps. I'll go over each step and indicate which ones are optional in my opinion. I say optional because they really are not needed to reload a cartridge but many like myself find they do increase the accuracy of the ammunition.
1) Probably the most important step. Get a reloading guide, preferably from the maker of the bullets you will be reloading. Read and reread the reloading process section at the front of the manual. I have reloading manuals from every manufacturer and also general guides.
2) Clean and inspect your brass for defects.
3) (optional 1 time step) Uniform and ream the primer pocket. This ensures that all primer pockets have the same dimensions making ignition characteristics more similar between each round. This helps to keep your shot groups smaller.
4) Resize and deprime the brass. This brings the brass back to it's original size since the brass stretch's when fired. For the beginner don't worry about neck sizing or partial resizing, just do full length resizing. Before you resize non straight wall cartridges you have to lube the case so it does not stick in the die. Personally I like Hornady's One Shot case lube in a spray can. It's faster than a lube pad and does not contaminate primers.
In this multistage step it also removes the old primer, called the decapping stage. As the cartridge is being resized a pin presses out the old primer.
5) Measure overall case length and refer to the spec's in the reloading manual. It will list a maximum acceptable case length. If it is over this length then it will need to be trimmed to length with a cartridge case trimmer. When you fire a round the brass actually act's like a liquid and tends to flow forward. Eventually the case get's thin at the back due to this and it also grows in length.
6) Chamfer and deburr the case mouth. If the case was trimmed this removes any burrs making the later step of bullet seating easier by removing the inside burr and the outside burr that can interfere with the later step of crimping and possible interference in the firearms chamber.
7) Belling/Expanding the case mouth. On rifle cartridges this step will have been taken care of when the case was resized and deprimed. There is a case mouth expander ball built into the decapping pin rod end. On straight wall pistol cartridges the goal is to open the case mouth sufficiently to allow the base of a bullet to be started into it. Don't overdue this step by opening the mouth to much it will only shorten case life.
8) Ok, now were ready to make some live ammo! Now is the priming stage. There are numerous types of primer installers, most presses come with one. Personally I like the hand primers as it gives me a better feel for what is going on. The goal here is to seat the primer to the correct depth.
9) Powder charging stage. In this stage you will measure and charge the case with powder using your reloading guide to pick the appropriate type and charge weight.
10) Bullet seating stage. In this stage you will install your chosen bullet. The goal here is to install it to the proper depth.
11) Crimping stage. On straight wall pistol cartridges you had earlier belled or opened the case mouth. In this stage you will now crimp the bullet into the case. In rounds for a automatic like a 9mm your basically just returning the case to a straight condition and not actually crimping since automatic's headspace off of the case mouth. On revolver cartridges you will be doing a roll crimp which actually rolls the case mouth into the bullet. On high power cartridges this prevents the bullet's from moving under recoil.
12) Final inspection. Just a final check to make sure everything you did looks ok.
13) GO OUT AND MAKE SOME NOISE!!!!!!
This may sound complicated but it really isn't. Follow the instructions in the reloading manual and the instructions that came with your equipment and all will be good in the world. The first couple of times you will be very nervous, it goes away and becomes second nature after a while. Just don't get to over confident. There are numerous other steps you can do to make your rounds more accurate like case neck turning, case mouth reaming, checking bullet runout and on and on. These additional steps make your rounds more accurate. Remember unlike off the shelf ammo where they have to make a cartridge that will work in every rifle you can fine tune your ammunition for a specific gun. It takes me a very long time to reload for my long range competition rifles, I do numerous extra steps. But on the other hand I can pound out well over 1,000 rounds a hour using a progressive press when making pistol ammunition.
Dargo - If you are going to reload 50 BMG you will need a press that can handle this very long cartridge. The standard reloading press is usually not tall enoug to handle this cartridge. Check the RCBS and Hornady websites, they both make presses that can handle this cartridge.
As far as equipment goes what exactly do you have. Powder measure, reloading manuals, case tumbler, etc...
Like I said previously it can be a little intimidating to the beginner. It helps if you can talk to someone who has reloaded before. If you ever have questions please don't hesitate to ask me. I would be more than happy to help out a fellow firearms enthusiast. You can either email me directly at sales@trclubricants.com or call me on my cell at 410-858-8290. Always be on the safe side and ask when in doubt.
Mike
1) Probably the most important step. Get a reloading guide, preferably from the maker of the bullets you will be reloading. Read and reread the reloading process section at the front of the manual. I have reloading manuals from every manufacturer and also general guides.
2) Clean and inspect your brass for defects.
3) (optional 1 time step) Uniform and ream the primer pocket. This ensures that all primer pockets have the same dimensions making ignition characteristics more similar between each round. This helps to keep your shot groups smaller.
4) Resize and deprime the brass. This brings the brass back to it's original size since the brass stretch's when fired. For the beginner don't worry about neck sizing or partial resizing, just do full length resizing. Before you resize non straight wall cartridges you have to lube the case so it does not stick in the die. Personally I like Hornady's One Shot case lube in a spray can. It's faster than a lube pad and does not contaminate primers.
In this multistage step it also removes the old primer, called the decapping stage. As the cartridge is being resized a pin presses out the old primer.
5) Measure overall case length and refer to the spec's in the reloading manual. It will list a maximum acceptable case length. If it is over this length then it will need to be trimmed to length with a cartridge case trimmer. When you fire a round the brass actually act's like a liquid and tends to flow forward. Eventually the case get's thin at the back due to this and it also grows in length.
6) Chamfer and deburr the case mouth. If the case was trimmed this removes any burrs making the later step of bullet seating easier by removing the inside burr and the outside burr that can interfere with the later step of crimping and possible interference in the firearms chamber.
7) Belling/Expanding the case mouth. On rifle cartridges this step will have been taken care of when the case was resized and deprimed. There is a case mouth expander ball built into the decapping pin rod end. On straight wall pistol cartridges the goal is to open the case mouth sufficiently to allow the base of a bullet to be started into it. Don't overdue this step by opening the mouth to much it will only shorten case life.
8) Ok, now were ready to make some live ammo! Now is the priming stage. There are numerous types of primer installers, most presses come with one. Personally I like the hand primers as it gives me a better feel for what is going on. The goal here is to seat the primer to the correct depth.
9) Powder charging stage. In this stage you will measure and charge the case with powder using your reloading guide to pick the appropriate type and charge weight.
10) Bullet seating stage. In this stage you will install your chosen bullet. The goal here is to install it to the proper depth.
11) Crimping stage. On straight wall pistol cartridges you had earlier belled or opened the case mouth. In this stage you will now crimp the bullet into the case. In rounds for a automatic like a 9mm your basically just returning the case to a straight condition and not actually crimping since automatic's headspace off of the case mouth. On revolver cartridges you will be doing a roll crimp which actually rolls the case mouth into the bullet. On high power cartridges this prevents the bullet's from moving under recoil.
12) Final inspection. Just a final check to make sure everything you did looks ok.
13) GO OUT AND MAKE SOME NOISE!!!!!!
This may sound complicated but it really isn't. Follow the instructions in the reloading manual and the instructions that came with your equipment and all will be good in the world. The first couple of times you will be very nervous, it goes away and becomes second nature after a while. Just don't get to over confident. There are numerous other steps you can do to make your rounds more accurate like case neck turning, case mouth reaming, checking bullet runout and on and on. These additional steps make your rounds more accurate. Remember unlike off the shelf ammo where they have to make a cartridge that will work in every rifle you can fine tune your ammunition for a specific gun. It takes me a very long time to reload for my long range competition rifles, I do numerous extra steps. But on the other hand I can pound out well over 1,000 rounds a hour using a progressive press when making pistol ammunition.
Dargo - If you are going to reload 50 BMG you will need a press that can handle this very long cartridge. The standard reloading press is usually not tall enoug to handle this cartridge. Check the RCBS and Hornady websites, they both make presses that can handle this cartridge.
As far as equipment goes what exactly do you have. Powder measure, reloading manuals, case tumbler, etc...
Like I said previously it can be a little intimidating to the beginner. It helps if you can talk to someone who has reloaded before. If you ever have questions please don't hesitate to ask me. I would be more than happy to help out a fellow firearms enthusiast. You can either email me directly at sales@trclubricants.com or call me on my cell at 410-858-8290. Always be on the safe side and ask when in doubt.
Mike
