Building my barn!

[EddieWalker]

I really like the size of this building. Is there any need for bracing your columns, or posts, or whatever they are called? I'd be nervous about a storm causing them to move.

 

[PistolPete]

I really like the size of this building. Is there any need for bracing your columns, or posts, or whatever they are called? I'd be nervous about a storm causing them to move.

That’s a good question. Not for the time being. The footers and anchors are each designed for 7k lb uplift and 10k lateral loads - way way more than a naked framed wall will be subjected to.

Once the walls are sheeted, but before the roof, that’s the critical time. The roof steel contributes significantly to the stability and stiffness of the structure, acting as a shear wall to transfer wind loads, while the wall steel just increases those wind loads! So if there’s any delay then, I will do some temp sheeting/bracing on the roof.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm just a little worried that they will move before you have any of the framing installed. Once it's all together, I'm sure it will be rock solid. I just wonder about a strong wind moving them while they are standing there without any bracing. They are so tall, that it wouldn't take much to move them just a little in the wind. If they move, what will that do to the bolts or concrete holding them in place?

 

[PistolPete]

I’m not concerned about that. It’s just like a lamp post or traffic light, but with a much deeper and stronger footing.

 

[Rustyiron]

Pete 4 16' 2x4's diagonally pointed at each other (one at each corner) temporarily screwed to the (inside) on your wall girts would really be a good idea before you get to the roof portion.
Get a whole wall square and level first, then put a diagonal from the bottom of the corner "post" to the top of the next post in (or wherever 16' gets you). This minor inexpensive job might really save your bacon in a good storm and is a basic practice in all forms of buildings prior to loading them and the inevitable side to side forces of simply walking around on the roof.
Think about "dominoes" standing on end.

 

[paulsharvey]

Most red iron buildings have diagonal cables to stiffen everything and also square the building, prior to skinning it. You will want something to stiffen it before working on wall panels. Probably the weakest, wind load wise, is once you get 1-3 wall skins in place. Around here; we do walls, then roof; might be different in other areas. Temp blocking between your wooden wall purlions will probably be needed to prevent sag, before the wall panels are screwed off.

I think I have seen single family homes around here a few times, where they did roof sheeting before walls; no me... Metal, stud; pole/post; don't really become rigid until all the bracing and sheeting is on.

 

[PistolPete]

I have “wind rods”, which are x-braced 1/2 steel rods on each side wall, and then again later on the roof.

Those will go on before I set the trusses.

The manufacturer also recommends sheeting the walls before the roof - presumably because it helps keep everything square while walking on the roof. Though lord knows I’d love a roof to keep my stuff dry…guess that will just motivate me to work quick!

I do plan to use temp blocks between the purlins to keep them horizontal and twist them nice and straight while getting the panels on.

 

[PistolPete]

having said that, as cheap as 2x4s are now, I may double up in the manner rusty suggested

 

[paulsharvey]

I have “wind rods”, which are x-braced 1/2 steel rods on each side wall, and then again later on the roof.
View attachment 804355
Those will go on before I set the trusses.

The manufacturer also recommends sheeting the walls before the roof - presumably because it helps keep everything square while walking on the roof. Though lord knows I’d love a roof to keep my stuff dry…guess that will just motivate me to work quick!

I do plan to use temp blocks between the purlins to keep them horizontal and twist them nice and straight while getting the panels on.

Perfect. Assumed your package included something, and sounds like they have you covered.

 

[SailingMaster]

Is that a "World Wide Steel Building"?

I like it! Looking good!

 

[PistolPete]

Is that a "World Wide Steel Building"?

I like it! Looking good!

Yep! Ordered it from WWSB last summer, got it in the fall and sat around waiting for concrete over the winter.

So the plan this weekend is to finish framing and bracing the sidewalks, which will have me ready for trusses. I’ve been looking at at lot of alternatives for lifting the 40’ long, 380lb roof trusses. The peak is just shy of 19’ above floor height, so if I wanted to pick from the middle I’d need at least 25’ lift to account to straps and rigging. My first thought was boom lift - but the site considerations are challenging - not a lot of flat or level space around the building.

So I’m thinking a more manual approach - material lift/roust-a-bout. My local rental center has some that can reach 25’ and lift 500lbs. Considering some safety factor and just my general nervousness about anything that tall and skinny, I’m thinking about getting two of them, slinging them at roughly the 1/3rds along the top chord, and doing a two point lift. I’m not seeing any fatal flaws with this plan, but I’d love to get some feedback.

I’ve seen videos on YouTube of folks using these lifts for wood trusses, but they have the benefit of a flat straight bottom chord - mine follow the slope of the top chord for a vaulted ceiling.

 

[SailingMaster]

Yes sir!

Sorry for the late reply!
When I built mine, I rented a boom lift to set the roof trusses. My peak was 23' and my width was 40' like yours. I used the forks through the truss and then ratchet strapped it to secure it. That did just fine.

Best of luck!

 

[PistolPete]

Been a bit slow lately due to travel and bad weather. But Friday should be the big day! I’m heading to the rental center tomorrow evening to rent this guy - I’ll use a pair of sling straps to pick up the trusses and raise them up about 12’ (18’ at the peak).

I’m going to have the trusses placed directly below their install locations so I minimize the need to move at all once they are suspended. I’ll get it up, throw in a couple pins, and bolt them up. I was worried about stability of the trusses before purlins go on, but I did a ground level test and I think they will be just fine for the short time between lifts. Steel is a lot more stiff (obviously!) than equivalently long wooden trusses.

Hopefully some good progress pics to share in a couple days!

 

[Williy]

Just build a round building no problem with the wind
In places were hurricanes hit only thing left standing
were the round buildings I found this info on the net

willy

 

[Doorman63]

Been a bit slow lately due to travel and bad weather. But Friday should be the big day! I’m heading to the rental center tomorrow evening to rent this guy - I’ll use a pair of sling straps to pick up the trusses and raise them up about 12’ (18’ at the peak).

View attachment 808257

I’m going to have the trusses placed directly below their install locations so I minimize the need to move at all once they are suspended. I’ll get it up, throw in a couple pins, and bolt them up. I was worried about stability of the trusses before purlins go on, but I did a ground level test and I think they will be just fine for the short time between lifts. Steel is a lot more stiff (obviously!) than equivalently long wooden trusses.

Hopefully some good progress pics to share in a couple days!

I’d be careful Pete……those are great for compact loads.
We have 2 SLA-12s at work……yes they lift 12’ and yes they do about 500 pounds. I told my boss nothing over 14’ wide will be lifter higher than 9’. The leverage available on something really long is amazing!!

 

[PistolPete]

Day one of roof installation was a good learning experience. Overall it went well, but slower than expected (which I should have expected!).

The material lift I rented was better than hoped. It rolled well, was stable, and the winch mechanism was smooth and well lubricated. Only complaint is that it’s a ***** to tie down on the trailer - every part moves!

I used two 5000lb slings from the lifting forks to the truss. While lifting the truss from horizontal to vertical, I allowed the lift to roll freely, and places rolling carts under the truss ends, so everything could move smoothly and avoid any shocks or large dynamic loads. Once it was fully supported by the lift, I could carefully position such that the load was centered over it s final position. Then 10,000 cranks later, the truss is up! Threw a spud wrench in the holes on each end and bolted them up.

I only got two up before my helper had to leave, and it ain’t quite a solo job. So I did as many purlins as I could reach (supposed 16’ reach on a ladder doesn’t account for the challenges of placing 12’ 2x8s above your head!) and called it a day. Next time, I’m gonna have two other dudes, and I’m going to rent a scissor lift too to do all the purlins.

 

[PistolPete]

Had a few buddies come over Saturday, and we managed to get the rest of the trusses up. Sure was nice to have some help - easier to muscle around the steel and good opportunity for parallel tasks. Super hot though.

Now just time to hang all those 2x8 purlins. Weather permitting…

 

[EddieWalker]

That's a huge accomplishment and step forward!!!!!

 

[PistolPete]

Here’s a couple pics from the work, including the obligatory photo of the tractor!

The material lift had to extend past the edge of the slab for the end trusses, so I build this platform. It’s a 4x8 box framed with 2x6s, and a couple sheets of OSB on top to bring it to slab height.

And a few more

 

[SailingMaster]

That is awesome! Excellent progress.

Very nice tractor! I like Kiotis.