Building with your own trees

[beenthere]

Timd Would you mind explaining to us why you want 1/4 sawed 2x4 and 2x6 material? I ask, because the limbs on the tree (which are usually large diameter on white pine) will saw out in 1/4 sawn material as spike knots, which are across the full width of the face. Flat sawed material will produce knots that are straight through the thickness (1 1/2") and are round.
Also, often nails in trees are the excuse (not the real reason) that sawmills don't want to saw home logs. In reality, only a portion of the log volume ends up in quality, usable products which is a disappointment to the person who has the logs - i.e. a log scaled 100 bf, but may saw out only 50% in usable 2x4 and 2x6's. Thus the sawyer gets less out of the logs than is expected. Logs vary in quality, depending on how the trees grew, and how many limbs were pruned off early in the growth cycle of the tree.
Its tough to get just a specific product out of logs, as a typical log has some construction grade or dimension (2x's), and some boards. Also, a log may have some very low grade in the center that is best boxed into a timber (3"+) for any recoverable value. If the log owner only wants construction material in 2" dimension, will the rest of the log be waste (firewood, etc.), or will the sawmill get to saw that material into a saleable product?

 

[Youare]

I have done custome sawing with my portable mill for over twenty years as a part time business. I don't get out much any more, too many home projects that keep me and the mill busy.

The question has already been asked, why do you want qurater sawn lumber? This request will really impact the volume of material you get to use form your trees. Strength will be sacrificed also, for a dimensional piece I believe it would be better to have the grain run the other direction.

Most portable mills charge by the hour not the board foot. I always charged by the board foot mill scale. I tallied each piece and at the end of the job figured the BF volume from that tally sheet. This way I could keep track of the customer's bill of material list so I didn't cut too much of what he couldn't use.

Hadrware in a log was the owner's responsibility, $4.00 per tooth, with 18 teeth at risk the was a $75.00 liability. Most customers would then say well I am not sure about this log so don't cut it.

Depending on the type and how clean the logs were the price per board foot varied. Usually $.25 per BF for soft wood and $.35 - $.40 for hard wood. I found that better than charging by the hour, if it was hot I didn't feel bad going a little slower. I still averaged about $35.00 per hour.

Most mills around here will not custom saw lumber any more because they are set up to saw for volume and do not want to mess around keeping you wood seperate and cutting to your wish list. Not only does the sawyer have to pay attention so does the edger.

Full dimension rough sawn lumber is stronger than the nominal stuff you by at the store. Pine is not as strong as fir, spruce, or even hemlock but it will work. I have a small barn I framed with pine 23 years ago, the only thing I suggest is coated nails pine is not noted for holding nails like fir or hemlock.

If the job was close to my house I required at least 1000 BF minimum, no set-up charge.

Randy

 

[hayden]

Tim, there's a mill in Weare where my brother in law had a cherry tree cut. That might be closer to you, but presents the challenge of transporting the logs and cut lumber. If you want me to track down the name, let me know, but I suspect there's only one mill there. It's right on Rt 77

 

[Timd]

<font color=blue>Would you mind explaining to us why you want 1/4 sawed 2x4 and 2x6 material? </font color=blue>

Because I'm a software guy who doesn't know any better? /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

The reason is that I thought quarter sawn planking would be less likely to cup, twist, crook, or deform as it dried. I didn't think about the knot issue and how that would affect the strength of framing members. Looking at the spruce planks I use for my staging I see those are flat sawn and haven't warped. So I guess quarter sawn isn't essential. I just want to build with flat wood, if I can find or make any.

<font color=blue>Its tough to get just a specific product out of logs, as a typical log has some construction grade or dimension (2x's), and some boards. </font color=blue>

My plan is to frame with pine and side/roof with plywood. I guess if the logs cut out to enough boards I could side with the boards. Even if I have to dry them before siding my implements would be happier with a roof over them than a blue tarp. What I really need to do is find a forestry/lumber site where I can see a diagram of how a typical log would be cut so I get a clue what I might end up with.

<font color=blue>If the log owner only wants construction material in 2" dimension, will the rest of the log be waste (firewood, etc.), or will the sawmill get to saw that material into a saleable product? </font color=blue>

Waste nothing! I even feel guilty about chipping brush that could be firewood but there's no time to deal with it any other way.

Timd

 

[Timd]

<font color=blue>The question has already been asked, why do you want quarter sawn lumber? </font color=blue>

See response to beenthere. /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

<font color=blue>Hardware in a log was the owner's responsibility, $4.00 per tooth, with 18 teeth at risk the was a $75.00 liability. Most customers would then say well I am not sure about this log so don't cut it.
</font color=blue>
Good to know some sawyers will let the customer take the risk and cut anyway. I did a tree inventory this afternoon. I need to cut between 12 and 20 tall pines to clear the land I want to build on. Most of these are forest trees, straight, no side leaders, still have the "widows wood" on the bottom where falls haven't knocked it off. I have one really big one I have to cut down which by itself would give me enough material for most of the framing, but that's a house tree.

<font color=blue>Full dimension rough sawn lumber is stronger than the nominal stuff you by at the store. Pine is not as strong as fir, spruce, or even hemlock but it will work. I have a small barn I framed with pine 23 years ago, the only thing I suggest is coated nails pine is not noted for holding nails like fir or hemlock.</font color=blue>

This is why I was planning to frame with rough sawn and thinking about 2x6's. Although I guess 2x4's would be almost as strong if I put lateral bridging halfway up the stud wall. Am planning on doing the roof with clear span trusses so all I'm looking for is framing material for perimeter walls.

Thanks for your input!

Timd

 

[gordon]

If your interested in learning different sawing options, different milling options and a bunch of other good forestry related items take a look at this site.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.forestryforum.com/index.shtml>http://www.forestryforum.com/index.shtml</A>

Might be worthwhile to take a look at not only their forum but they also have a knowledge base and some very good forestry links as well. Information from start to finish./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Hope this helps
Gordon

 

[Timd]

Peter -

Unless I find a portable mill operator the logs and lumber are going to have to ride back and forth on a grapple flatbed and trailer. Is the mill you're thinking of Wolf Custom Cutting & Lumber? Only one I can locate in Weare. That's about 40 miles from me though; I'm over by the seacoast.

Most of the small stationary mills in Rockingham County seem to have gone under. The local one two miles from my house makes 3 that I have bought from in the past which are out of business. The software business is slow right now, but I resist the temptation to buy a portable mill by thinking of all the pre-warped lumber I could cut with it! Better to hire somebody who's done it before and work with them.

Hey, got any brush you need chipped? I'd love to see how well that Patu works...

Timd

 

[Timd]

Gordon -

Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for!

Timd

 

[woodmills1]

yes feur is closed and they were the big local buyer here, the market is gone. i talked with them on the phone, even though they dont cut they do still sell. i almost got a cut deal but i am still part timer.

 

[hayden]

Tim,

Sorry, I got my towns confused. I was thinking of Antrim which is not too far from Weare. It could be Wolf. I drive by it aften but don't recall the name.

I've got lots of brush to chip, but it's all in Vermont. But don't let that discourage you. Anytime you want to chip, I'll cut.