Mowing Bush Hog operating Hints and experience

[TractorRob]

I went for a lot of years disengaging my PTO often without reducing the engine RPM; wish I could have found the thread as it did a good job of explaining why.

It often seems the more I learn, the more I realize how little I know.

Is this the thread you are talking about:"Disengage PTO before idling down?"

If so, I 'll paraphrase what I get from that thread: Some tractors have a PTO brake and some don't. On tractors that have a PTO brake, you definitely should idle down before disengaging the PTO. On tractors without a PTO brake, it is not necessary; however, it will not hurt anything to. If you do not know whether or not you have a PTO brake then you should idle down before disengaging.

 

[RoyJackson]

Is this the thread you are talking about:"Disengage PTO before idling down?"

I don't know if that's the thread TripleR was referring to, but just as you don't want a shock load upon engagement, you want to reduce any load upon disengagement...just common sense (and you guys know how common I can be!!!)

 

[TripleR]

Is this the thread you are talking about:"Disengage PTO before idling down?"

If so, I 'll paraphrase what I get from that thread: Some tractors have a PTO brake and some don't. On tractors that have a PTO brake, you definitely should idle down before disengaging the PTO. On tractors without a PTO brake, it is not necessary; however, it will not hurt anything to. If you do not know whether or not you have a PTO brake then you should idle down before disengaging.

Yes, that's the one, thanks.

On our old Ford we installed over running clutches on the PTO shaft, so it really made no difference at what speed we disengaged. On our other old though not quite as old tractors, we just disengaged as nothing in the manuals said otherwise. On our newer tractors I now throttle down.

 

[belah]

I have a Wood's BB720 6 ft cutter (3 point hitch cutter) The gearbox is rated at 120hp and it is rated to cut trees 3-4in diameter. It has a Slip-Clutch. It weighs 1125lbs and I pull it with a Kubota M4030SU 50hp tractor. I usually lower my FEL about 2 ft off the ground in the bigger stuff to knock the tree over, then slowly I go over the tree with the tractor. When the bottom of the tree gets to the cutter I go even slower to give it a chance to cut the biggest part of the tree-- the lower portion. Then I pull the cutter over the rest of the tree and it eats it up. I've had no problem with undercarriage damage and i;ve cut 4 in trees with this tractor and cutter. Also, I have Pat's Quick Change System which I highly recommend !! Just go SLOW esp. in the bigger stuff and make sure no one is close by b/c the cutter will sling out debris at a tremedous velocity.:thumbsup:

 

[bironacad]

Reducing the PTO RPM before disengaging the PTO would use the engine to slow the rotation of the blades, I should think.

I did a few hours with the bush hog this past weekend and was very satisfied with what it would chew up. I found though if I backed into larger saplings that the apron got bent. The metal is fairly light for bending back the saplings. I will have to get it reinforced or knock them down with the FEL first.:thumbsup:

 

[botemout]

Excellent advice already given, but I will add one thing...

Keep an eye on the temp gauge. Bushhogging usually creates a lot of debris that can clog up the radiator and cause the motor to overheat. If you don't have a temp gauge, then stop and check the radiator screen every so often.

I wish I had read this before I overheated my tractor brush hogging this weekend! ;-)

 

[botemout]

+1 to that, especially if you have a modern CUT-style tractor. Lots of exposed mechanical and hydraulic stuff underneath. In really tall, thick brush, plan your turns so you don't need to back up or make sharp turns at the end of a row.

Also, be prepared for the cutter to make an unholy racket as it chews up the larger debris. The cutter will take it, but from the sound, you'll think it's coming apart.

I finally started wearing hearing protection which helps my piece of mind amid the racket. On a downside, I'm less able to hear when I'm hitting rocks!

 

[GreenBean]

I have a Wood's BB720 6 ft cutter (3 point hitch cutter) The gearbox is rated at 120hp and it is rated to cut trees 3-4in diameter. It has a Slip-Clutch. It weighs 1125lbs and I pull it with a Kubota M4030SU 50hp tractor. I usually lower my FEL about 2 ft off the ground in the bigger stuff to knock the tree over, then slowly I go over the tree with the tractor. When the bottom of the tree gets to the cutter I go even slower to give it a chance to cut the biggest part of the tree-- the lower portion. Then I pull the cutter over the rest of the tree and it eats it up. I've had no problem with undercarriage damage and i;ve cut 4 in trees with this tractor and cutter. Also, I have Pat's Quick Change System which I highly recommend !! Just go SLOW esp. in the bigger stuff and make sure no one is close by b/c the cutter will sling out debris at a tremedous velocity.:thumbsup:

I'm thinking about getting the same BB720 vs BH 296. Have you had any problems with the Woods?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I'm thinking about getting the same BB720 vs BH 296. Have you had any problems with the Woods?

I used to be a big fan of Woods mowers. Usta be......

I bought a couple BB8400's and a BB720 for use in my mowing business. (8 years ago????)

BB720 wasn't too bad, but I had all sorts of issues with the BB8400's. (Paint fell off in sheets, gear box failures, 3-point hitch structure bending under light use, ect) I had all sorts of problems with warranty (both dealer and Woods fought me) Finally got 'em sold off and replaced with Bush Hog 286 and 287 mowers. Still have 'em! They've taken considerably more abuse than the Woods mowers and still look the part of a high quality mower. The 286 and 287 were replaced in the Bush Hog line-up by the 296/297 a few years ago.

So...IMHO, Wood "OK", Bush Hog much better....