Bush Hog vs Woods vs.....?

[Otgaugres]

Thanks everybody!

The BB72X will do everything I need and more but for $800 or so more - I think I'll jump up to the BB720X @ around 1200lbs. Buy once, cry once. I am mowing sideways on the slope and will likely have the mower as low to the ground as I can. Probably will disconnect the top link to allow it to float more. The mower will likely hit the ground in the front but the 720 has nice skid shoes.

I haven't had this MX on the property yet since the weather went to crap as soon as it was delivered. The side stability is mostly pucker factor on my part. I DO have to worry about sliding sideways, but mainly due to if the ground is soft from rain. That was the issue with my 2013 B3200. Since my MX is larger and heavier (and 660lbs in rear wheel weights) - I am hoping even if the ground is soft, it will dig into the ground rather than slide sideways. We shall see.

Good choice! I think you’ll be pleased. I’m pretty confident that my BB720x will be the last brush hog I ever buy. Just a head’s up, it doesn’t sound like you plan on using a quick-hitch, but if so, you may run into some problems, depending on the setup. I had a heck of a time getting my JD iMatch hitch to work with mine as well as my other quick-hitch implements. Finally came up with a fairly easy mod to the hitch that allowed everything to work properly. If you run into that issue, let me know and I’ll be happy to share my solution. In the interim while coming up with a quick-hitch fix, I was hooking up traditionally. Glad to have the rear fender controls on my JD, because that thing is a beast to try to wrestle around. Good luck.

 

[cold1313]

So far, I don't plan on using a quick connect. I either have the mower or a blade on my machine for now. No rear fender controls for me. I'll have to get creative with cribbing. But my links can extend which seem very helpful.

 

[cold1313]

Fast forward to today and I still haven't used this beast. Between work and weather, I haven't been able to cut. I did get the BB720X connected and set the cut height to 3". I even put my 4' level on the deck and measured to make sure I had the proper drop in the front as the manual suggests.

However it just doesn't seem right and maybe it's because I'm down to 3". When in transport position, the tail is way up in the air. At cutting height, my top link is snug, not overly tight. I was also thinking this unit had movement at the top link position (like my previous Woods finishing mower) but it seems about rigid. Not much movement at all.

Far as I can tell, everything is right...just looks odd to me when it's in transport. That and I expected more movement at the top link position.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Fast forward to today and I still haven't used this beast. Between work and weather, I haven't been able to cut. I did get the BB720X connected and set the cut height to 3". I even put my 4' level on the deck and measured to make sure I had the proper drop in the front as the manual suggests.

However it just doesn't seem right and maybe it's because I'm down to 3". When in transport position, the tail is way up in the air. At cutting height, my top link is snug, not overly tight. I was also thinking this unit had movement at the top link position (like my previous Woods finishing mower) but it seems about rigid. Not much movement at all.

Far as I can tell, everything is right...just looks odd to me when it's in transport. That and I expected more movement at the top link position.

The flex joint is just behind to upper link connection.

 

[LD1]

IF the tailwheel is raising too high for your liking when in transport mode.... the toplink where connected to tractor needs to be in a higher position. The higher the toplink on the tractor side the less the tailwheel raises.

 

[cold1313]

View attachment 556648

The flex joint is just behind to upper link connection.

I saw the joint but mine didn't move much. After adjusting the tail wheel for height, I think that the kid who assembled this thing thought that over torqued is best. It was all my impact gun (1/2") could do to loosen the bolts. I think I am going to go through that section and loosen and make sure everything moves as intended.

 

[cold1313]

IF the tailwheel is raising too high for your liking when in transport mode.... the toplink where connected to tractor needs to be in a higher position. The higher the toplink on the tractor side the less the tailwheel raises.

If having the tailwheel way up in the air is okay, then I'm fine - it just looked odd to me. I've never had to adjust the top link between the 3 settings on the tractor. I'm at the lowest point, which I believe is typical. I was unsure of any downside to moving the top link to a higher position? i.e. new tractor and never had a need to adjust that position before on previous tractors.

 

[LD1]

No issues with the tailwheel hiked way in the air but be cautious of your PTO driveline angles.

Where you have it set now, lifting the tailwheel the highest.....is an asset when loading on a deckover trailer, or crossing a ravine or something similar.

Now if you have 3PH pallet forks, it wouldnt be good to angle the load that much.....so you would want to top hole most likely. Thats why those holes are there, so we can adjust to the job at hand

 

[lostcreekranch]

I saw the joint but mine didn't move much. After adjusting the tail wheel for height, I think that the kid who assembled this thing thought that over torqued is best. It was all my impact gun (1/2") could do to loosen the bolts. I think I am going to go through that section and loosen and make sure everything moves as intended.

Make sure that Nylock style nuts are used on the flex connections.

 

[cold1313]

No issues with the tailwheel hiked way in the air but be cautious of your PTO driveline angles.

Where you have it set now, lifting the tailwheel the highest.....is an asset when loading on a deckover trailer, or crossing a ravine or something similar.

Now if you have 3PH pallet forks, it wouldnt be good to angle the load that much.....so you would want to top hole most likely. Thats why those holes are there, so we can adjust to the job at hand

I checked the PTO very closely while raising it the first few times, very slowly. Surprisingly everything seems to be clear. I would not want to raise the implement to that height with the PTO on of course. Since I haven't used it, I'll leave the top link alone. If it still bothers me, I'll move it up. Thanks for the clarification on the hole location.

I'll see if Woods used Nylock's or not. If they didn't I'll get some and/or blue Locktite.

I also noticed there is only a PTO chain at the cutter gearbox. No chain at the tractor (for the plastic cover). It looks like the ear that should have a chain was broken....Pretty sure there should be a chain at each end.