"bushhog" Blade Sharpening

[deezler]

I will note that I went pretty sharp on this go round. Probably too sharp. Then made some new trails in the woods and took out many large 1-2" stemmed bushes and saplings. As well as accidentally got into the dirt/ground a few times, as often happens by mistake when navigating rough terrain. All done brush hogging last night so I took it off, and quick looked underneath first. A few big dents in the blade edges, whoops. Making the blade edge real sharp does mean it will get damaged more easily. But it was cutting grass in the field better than my John Deere riding mower does!

 

[Quebecguy]

I've a 4' Yellow 'bush hog' type (Maybe Tractor Supply) and never (10 yeas in +/-) even looked at the blades much less sharpened them. My excuse is they are hard to see . . .

How does one get a look at them?

How often do folks replace them? Or sharpen them?

How would I go about sharpening them?

I do not use it a lot - one bottom field I wind up cutting down most Summers - but have neglected a bit and it needs attention.

I have a trailer I suppose I could transport the thing on to get it to a dealer after saaving up for a few months to pay!) but it should be something I can handle once i know where to start.

My Woods brand bush hog is about 45 years old and I use it roughly 20 - 30 hours per year. In 1990 or so I took the blades off and sharpened them. I didn't notice much difference to the cut so haven't touched them since then. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

[repete]

That's a gloat, no?

Not necessarily a gloat but if it is seen that way there is not much I can do about it.

I bought this lift 15 years ago for $1,799.00. I have not had any funds go into it so the cost is $120/year. That come to $10/month at this point or less that two cups of coffee per month.

I just have so many people say they wish they could afford a lift. I think more how can you not afford it. I see it as an investment in being able to take care of your machinery in a comfortable way.

One tip though, do not buy a 9000# model as I did. Consider getting a 12K unit to lift heavier vehicles. I get a little stressed when lifting a 7500# vehicle as I would like a little more margin and not have to ask what is in the bed/and or are both tanks full of fuel... Do not get into the same predicament as I did.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I don't sharpen mine. But I'm not looking for a clean lawn cut on grass. I'm cutting too much junk weeds, brush, etc, to worry about what the grass looks like. Most customers don't care, and I'm only hiring out to cut pastures, not lawns.

I use my riding mower to cut my lawn at my own place.

 

[Bearsixty7]

This link is one of many threads; I think I saw a more recent one in the past few weeks.

I’ve never sharpened mine; 20 years old.

Can look at the blades by lowering the cutter onto large sturdy wood blocks on at least four spots under the frame itself, then just look (don’t crawl) under.

Rotary Cutter - Sharpening the blades

I have a 6" rotary cutter I have used for years to clear some old pasture. Like many of us I have hit a few rocks and some branches along the way. All of that being said the "sharp side" of the blades now have a bullnose profile. I have never sharpened the blades. I went by a local shop and...

www.tractorbynet.com

I especially like post #10!

 

[oosik]

Mine has 75 hours on it. Still looks good. Don't mess with success.

 

[CobyRupert]

Just sharpened the blades on my new (to me) brush hog. It came with my newer (lightly used) Kioti tractor in a package deal, but I didn't need it for the first couple summers, until now.

With my hydraulic top link, I can actually tip the sucker way up into the air. I put jack stands under the edges like others have recommended, then just lay down and sharpen with my angle grinder. Only takes 10 minutes.

My blades were already in good shape, but I like when it cuts the grass, instead of rips it, pulling it, bend it over, etc.

…but with a hydraulic top link, your safety is now dependent on maintaining hydraulic pressure in the top link cylinder (even with tractor off). If a hose fails, or something (animal, kid, a meteor from space, whatever, etc.. ) bumps the hydraulic lever, the rear of the mower is falling down.

To me this is similar to working under a raised FEL. You’re safety is dependent on hydraulic lines. Chances are it WON’T fail or the lever won’t get accidentally bumped when I’m under it, but I still avoid it.

Then again, is that any different than depending on the hydraulic brake lines on your truck?

Safety Police signing off now. 2cents.

 

[deezler]

…but with a hydraulic top link, your safety is now dependent on maintaining hydraulic pressure in the top link cylinder (even with tractor off). If a hose fails, or something (animal, kid, a meteor from space, whatever, etc.. ) bumps the hydraulic lever, the rear of the mower is falling down.

To me this is similar to working under a raised FEL. You’re safety is dependent on hydraulic lines. Chances are it WON’T fail or the lever won’t get accidentally bumped when I’m under it, but I still avoid it.

Then again, is that any different than depending on the hydraulic brake lines on your truck?

Safety Police signing off now. 2cents.

I had jack stands under the mower….

I get that it could rotated back over them, but the stands were basically under the center of gravity. IE not gonna crash down. I think.

 

[deezler]

Don't get me wrong, I do appreciate the safety policing. Would be incredibly dumb to injure or even kill myself just trying to do some basic equipment maintenance. My wife and kids would be screwed without me!

 

[IndyIan]

Just sharpened the blades on my new (to me) brush hog. It came with my newer (lightly used) Kioti tractor in a package deal, but I didn't need it for the first couple summers, until now.

With my hydraulic top link, I can actually tip the sucker way up into the air. I put jack stands under the edges like others have recommended, then just lay down and sharpen with my angle grinder. Only takes 10 minutes.

My blades were already in good shape, but I like when it cuts the grass, instead of rips it, pulling it, bend it over, etc.

That's how I do mine, but I add a 4x4 under the back edge. I notice you don't have a tail wheel? How does that work out? I was thinking of adding casters on the front on mine and just running it on the ground for my smoother areas where I'm basically using is as a finish mower.