Buying a used L3430 GST changing transmission fluiid

[brain55]

I use Kubota Super UDT2 exclusively in my Grand L tractor. However, "Super" is optional. Buy the tractor, READ THE MANUALS. Fish after reading the manuals.

Don't start fishing on tractorbynet.com from a tractor knowledge base of zero. This is the web.
Some of what you read is worthwhile but you get mostly postulations from those WITHOUT EXPERIENCE.

This is good advice. I can speak from experience I would recommend the Super UDT, it makes a difference. But what do I know, I've only spent half of my career starting in July of 1987 working in Kubota dealerships, and the other half repairing Kubota and other brands of equipment.

 

[perryg114]

Well having to get a loan on a car to buy the tractor. Can't afford $25k for a new one. I don't mind fixing things up. I can do all the work myself. My little B7800 is not big enough for 44 acres and I would have to ferry it back and forth to the property. You can get a used one with even more hours on it than this one with no front end loader.

Perry

 

[David_Kb7uns]

On the GLXX30 series GSTs Super UDT does make a difference in the shifting performance and lockup of the clutch packs. And should be kept as clean and moisture free as possible, it does make a difference.

David

 

[rScotty]

I wouldn't worry about it. If it drives fine, can pickup the 3pt with a load, and makes no weird noises, you are probably OK. Last resort is to double-check the operating pressures.

Generally hydraulic fluid isn't suddenly going to go bad. Where it gets problematic is when the fluid gets low enough to cause cavitation to the pump. At this point it is usually beyond the point of just filling it up and not having issues.

There are farmers around here that will go way beyond the "recommended" trans/hydraulic fluid swap, or like in your case, never changed it and of course never have problems. I've helped on plenty of farms, and lots of guys just wait until the machine needs some service then they deal with it.

If it were my machine, since I read the manual, and a tractor isn't something I can afford to replace or work on due to user error, I stick to the expert guide on fluid swaps, that is conveniently listed in the owners manual -- even if it seems unnecessary or wasteful.

I'll second what diesel85 is saying. It sounds like a great deal dollarwise. You've seen the machine; does it look to be in decent condition or does it look rough?
Personally I think that oil change recommendations are way too conservative. I've done a lot of machine repairs, and I've yet to see substantial wear due to old oil. From not enough oil, yes....but just from old oil....I haven't seen a problem.
You can get a good 303 rated transhydraulic fluid at the farm store for a reasonable price. Get filters too. Use the type 303 as a flushing oil, run it for 20 hours, and then go with new filters (yes, AGAIN!), drain the flush and refill with whatever transhydraulic oil you want to stay with.
Good Luck & stop worrying so much.
rScotty

 

[perryg114]

It looks used but not that bad. The loader does not look like it was used much. It needs some TLC but appears to be sound. I will drive it and play with all the gadgets. I will probably take the bush hog off it once I verify that it works. I want to look at that PTO shaft. I will also look for oil leaks and other problems that are not easily fixed. It probably needs about $1000 of maintenance. New front tires, all the fluids changed and few parts here and there. He drives it like an old man, nice and slow.

Perry

 

[David_Kb7uns]

On the transmission there is a front, rear and 2 drains one on each side of the reduction gear cases. Just be prepared when the fluid comes out and have a good sized tub for it, got a 15gallon wash tub just for draining.

Also check the front axle, it will use Super UDT or 80-90w gear oil. Fill plug on top check plug on side of axle housing. Got one bevel gear seal leaking on mine that needs replacing so not uncommon.

David

 

[perryg114]

I need to think the tub thing through. I have been using bus trays from Sam's club for oil changes but I think they only hold a few gallons. I would be surprised if they held more than 5 gal. Then you can't lift it.

Perry

 

[moship]

Do not remove all drain plugs at once. Open the highest one first. Drain and empty catch pan into another container(s). Proceed to the next lower one and repeat.

I start with 3 empty 5 gallon pails for the used fluid and follow the above to keep the fluid removal under control.

May want to consider new seals under the plugs.

Are the original hydraulic filter(s) still on it? They would be painted gray... might be interesting to cut them open to see what they reveal.

 

[art]

The Kubota oil is a plus for powershift tractors and hydro's! There are different oils available but they do not give the same performance!

 

[Texas Fella]

I would stick with Super UDT. GST transmissions have small orifices in them require a certain oil viscosity. 4 out of 5 GST's (rough guess based on experience) will not have an issue with some other oils. However, that last tractor will not "like" some other oils. This can cause rough or delayed shifting. I have seen several units that customers put "hy-tran" fluid in and then complained of a rough shift. Replacing the fluid with Kubota fixed the issue immediately. If you do not want to spend the money on Kubota oil, I understand. But at least be aware that if you experience a rough shift condition after the oil change, I would suggest changing the oil to Kubota Super UDT before you turn your dealer loose trying to find the "problem."