Buying acreage, what do I need to know?

[Stuka]

Hey Jack, I am presently located in the Bay City area, and you must be right, because there is no shortage of rural homes here. But my prospective property is closer to Centerville. I will have to see who I can talk to about the perk-iness of the land up there. Although, there are at least 3 homes withing 1/4 mile of this property. So, something must work.

 

[SirReal63]

The soil in Centerville is vastly different than Bay City. You should be ok though, typically small population counties are easier to deal with than biger city ones. A call to someone who has been installing septics in the area for a long time will give the right answers.

 

[newbury]

Hey Jack, I am presently located in the Bay City area, and you must be right, because there is no shortage of rural homes here. But my prospective property is closer to Centerville. I will have to see who I can talk to about the perk-iness of the land up there. Although, there are at least 3 homes withing 1/4 mile of this property. So, something must work.

Here's what you can do:
Go to Web Soil Survey - Home click on the big green WSS button
In the AOI tab (up top are the tab labels) zoom in or select Texas, Leon county
Zoom in to your prospective land
In the AOI tab and sub window "Area of Interest Interactive Map" you'll see the a red rectangular button labelled aoi. Draw an aoi around the land, it can't be too big, like 100,000 acres.
example



Go to the soil map tab
example


There is a full set of what your soils are in http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_MANUSCRIPTS/texas/TX289/0/leon.pdf, which is good reading.

Or you can go to the "Soil Data Explorer " tab and the sub tab "Suitabilities..." slide down the right side and select "Sanitary Facilities", thence "Septic Tank Absorption ..."
and get something like:


And you've got a good first look.

 

[oosik]

Well - like others have indicated you are walking into a morass & tangled web. I would say that first you must commit to the purchase IF conditions are satisfactory. I would recommend a title search - this will show any possible encumbrances on the land (a clear title). Then insure you have legal & constructible access. Then a soil test(s) to ensure an adequate septic system can be constructed. Then talk to adjoining neighbors & local well drillers about depth of water, expected amounts and quality. How is the land zoned - does it allow you to build what you want to build. Check into required permits & availability of service - well, septic, building, electrical, driveway access to paved road, telephone - these would be the major services & permits required.

Now you can do all this yourself or have a realtor do the leg work. In all cases - except possibly the well - obtain official documentation that shows what is allowed/required. Word of mouth is only of any value if you are in a BS session. You can - if the county required wells are recorded - even obtain copies of well depths/production from the local agency that requires wells be permitted or perhaps the United States Geological Survey. A real estate agent can help you find whatever type of financing you may need.

The current owner may be receptive to paying for some of this data also.

Remember- you want to have the answers to these questions BEFORE you sign on the dotted line.

A couple across the road from me thought they were saving money by not getting the required building permits. They constructed a foundation and moved a double-wide onto the 60 acres without the required permits. John Law found them and now they are having to move the double-wide off the property. They could not find an acceptable location for a septic system anywhere on the 60 acres. This area is not called the Scab Lands for no reason.

You will soon realize the difference between building on acreage out in the country and building on a lot in an urban subdivision.

 

[newbury]

Oh, and another point I have not seen mentioned - BE WARY of $$ DOWN.
We put $3K down on a property 4 years ago to be settled within 60 days which OUR real estate agent and bank thought was a month more than needed.
The sellers who were scum routinely would not return letters and forms within two weeks, wouldn't deal over the phone, stretched it out and complained that they "couldn't get to the mail box" etc. Then after the 60 days were up they kept our money, said they had decided not to sell, and relisted it a month later.

I wanted to sue but my lawyer said it would cost more than $3K.

That was an education.

 

[oosik]

I forgot to mention the "soil maps" from the USDA or Soil Conservation Service - excellent point newbury. I've run into those maps here in Ea WA also. The ones I've seen in this part of the world are designed to assist farmers in the determination of crop types but they are just as good for determining permeability of soils.

And you know newbury - in many parts of this country - somebody takes $3K of your money is a preclude to needing the services of a mortician. It probably won't get your money returned but it will be justice served. It takes a lot of cojones to do that dastardly deed - more so than brains. Ha,ha,ha

 

[RickeyS]

Quite common here in the East, but not so much for you out west. If you don't own them, they can come get them..

Agreed. The land I just purchased I got it all. I was also lucky in the way the deal went down. The land was in two lots, 11 ac and 10.5 ac. With a VA loan you must have a least 70% of value being the dwelling. We actually did a side deal where I got the back 11ac for $5 at the close. We had it in writing so there was no question about me getting it. So now I have my house and 10.5 ac with a mortgage and 11 ac free and clear to include an already done easement to the back on the edge of my 10.5 if I ever have an issue. I don't expect one but life happens.

 

[dmccarty]

When I got my 140 acres it had an old house from the 50's on that the bank said wasn't worth anything. So, they gave me what is called a land loan,30% down adjustable rate since there was no habitable building on it. I went with anyway figuring I'm going to put a house and then refinance. Boy was I wrong, the'll give me a fixed rate for the house and a surveyed 20 acres around it and then survey the rest. The guy at the bank said the only other way is to pay off the loan, well, if I could do that I wouldn't need them. I'm still trying to figure out my options.

We tried to finance with the credit union when we bought our land but they would not have a loan with more than 15-20 acres of raw land. We ended up going to a so called big bad bank who has been a pleasure to work with over the years. Unlike the constant problems with the CU. The only reason we are with the CU is because it is easy access at work. Otherwise we would be at the big bad but nice and competent bank.

There are banks out there that will loan for just raw land, you just have to find them, which can be easier said than done. I suspect most loan institutions would require the house to be on a smaller parcel of land, under 20 acres, just to make it easier to sell. Our house is on its on lot and loan while the rest of the land is on a second loan.

Later,
Dan

 

[ustmd]

I've found 25 acres in Texas I am making an offer on. Will need financing, what experience can you share with me about lenders, the process of buying, and what I need to ask about and look for in land? thanks

On a more general note than the previous comments, plan on not having any free time (or on a more positive note, you will always have projects waiting for you).

 

[dave1949]

Here's what you can do:
Go to Web Soil Survey - Home click on the big green WSS button
In the AOI tab (up top are the tab labels) zoom in or select Texas, Leon county
Zoom in to your prospective land
In the AOI tab and sub window "Area of Interest Interactive Map" you'll see the a red rectangular button labelled aoi. Draw an aoi around the land, it can't be too big, like 100,000 acres.
example

View attachment 433757

Go to the soil map tab
example
View attachment 433758

There is a full set of what your soils are in http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_MANUSCRIPTS/texas/TX289/0/leon.pdf, which is good reading.

Or you can go to the "Soil Data Explorer " tab and the sub tab "Suitabilities..." slide down the right side and select "Sanitary Facilities", thence "Septic Tank Absorption ..."
and get something like:
View attachment 433762

And you've got a good first look.

Thanks for posting this.