Buying my first Kubota - education needed!

coryfavre · Feb 11, 2019

3gunr said:
Wou might yyelcome cory favre.I have a farm just north of labelle, are you buying from the farm shop in edina. They have worked on our old massey several times and seem to be good guys. I also think with your list of things to do you might want to look at an L size tractor .

I do have a quote from The Farm Shop, they have been very helpful!

Hunter29 · Feb 11, 2019

Buy bigger that what you think you need, why ? because you will anyway sooner or later..

oldballs · Feb 11, 2019

Hunter29 said:
Buy bigger that what you think you need, why ? because you will anyway sooner or later..

Good point Hunter...........One good reason is that the attachments that your buy for a SCUT may not be the right ones for the larger tractor. Then you either take a loss on selling them, or try to use the undersized implement anyway, wishing you had a better fit.:2cents:

Another good reason could be that the "shed" that you built for parking the SCUT, may not be big enough (height) for storage.

P.S. If you want some other local and knowledgeable advice, go to the bottom of the "Forum" listings @ the Midwest & Great Lakes..."Missouri Roll Call"...You'll get some good advice there too.

coryfavre · Feb 11, 2019

I've checked out the B2650, it was actually the first quote I got. I just don't think I can make it work size wise with some of the things I'm wanting to do at this time.

Right now I think I'm going with this:

3 pt pallet forks
FEL
Rear blade
54" MMM

And maybe switching from the R4 tires, but I have to research that one more.

coryfavre · Feb 11, 2019

oldballs said:
Good point Hunter...........One good reason is that the attachments that your buy for a SCUT may not be the right ones for the larger tractor. Then you either take a loss on selling them, or try to use the undersized implement anyway, wishing you had a better fit.:2cents:

Another good reason could be that the "shed" that you built for parking the SCUT, may not be big enough (height) for storage.

P.S. If you want some other local and knowledgeable advice, go to the bottom of the "Forum" listings @ the Midwest & Great Lakes..."Missouri Roll Call"...You'll get some good advice there too.

Thanks for the advice! I'll check it out

JOHNTHOMAS · Feb 12, 2019

coryfavre said:
I've checked out the B2650, it was actually the first quote I got. I just don't think I can make it work size wise with some of the things I'm wanting to do at this time.

Right now I think I'm going with this:

3 pt pallet forks
FEL
Rear blade
54" MMM

And maybe switching from the R4 tires, but I have to research that one more.

I started with a BX2200 FEL MMM 15 years ago first tractor to be my lifetime mower with high priced wheelbarrow on the front. I lived on a hillside gullied rocky treed 3+ acres lot. I discovered the little tractor was more than any of the riding mowers I'd ever owned by about a thousand. l started looking for projects to do but alas my ground clearance with the BX was very limiting and some of the bigger rocks I wanted/needed to move wouldn't budge with the BX so after one year I traded the BX to a B7800 FEL and a 6' Rear Finish Mower and bought a BX1500 54" MMM for mowing aroundthe house and on the steep land.. Kept this combination for 3 years and then traded the B to a L3240 FEL which was mistake since it sat so high off the ground on steep hillside was scary so quickly traded the L to a B3200 and then kept trading about 20 times over the next 12 years till I've owned about every BX and B size. Have since bought another 30 adjoining acres so have a different combination now but do still have a BX. My recommendation is go up to a small B for a lot of the reasons others here have suggested but if your not going to do that now then keep the R4s always with a FEL and no grapple with a BX and no remote controls with a BX. I have a Piriniha bar attached to my FEL and is worth the money and allows you to dig a bit and helps with picking stuff up with the front bucket rather than just push it. With this BX FEL MMM then you have to have rear weight which my first recommendation is a boxblade which is also the most valuable/usable/helpful/multi purpose attachment/implement available. Don't waste money on weights when you can apply that money to usable implements. Not sue about best to buy rear forks or front attach to bucket forks since both have the advantages/disadvantages and with a BX they aren't going to be os much use for heavy lifting anyway but OK for some lifting, mostly choice should be made on your needs/uses.
No to the warranty purchase. These are near indestructible machines.
Everything Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer Attachments is a site you need to visit and watch some of their videos which show how and what attachments do and their prices are reasonable. Also Titan Attachments - PalletForks.com - 8-65-8241 is a source of attachments for fairly cheap prices. You may also want to do some research on a RatchetRake for the FEL.
Good luck on your purchase and adventure. With 3 acres and more than mowing I'm sure you'll ponder many times as to whether you should have went up one step to the B series but you can always trade and only be out a few thousand dollars by not going there to start with. I've done a side by side eval as did BPFick as we owned both and I owned both at the same time. See if you can do a search and find those evals and then buy what will work best for you.

Fallon · Feb 12, 2019

coryfavre said:
Thanks guys! I'll skip the plans for a grapple and look at forks. Is there any reason to add the 3rd function then?

Grapple or a thumb for a bucket, hydraulic post hole auger ($2,500 vs a $600 3pt phd, but that doesnt hsve downpressure), hydraulic angle on a SSQA snow plow. There are others, but those are the most common for a compact tractor.

As others have said, look at your requirements. Weight is what makes a tractor work, HP just defines how fast it will do the job. A 25hp L2501 will pull a blade or lift a load circles around a 30hp B series. Weight is traction & ballast, you need both to pull things & lift things. You need HP to run a mower or do other PTO tasks, but pulling & lifting take less power than you'd think at lower speeds. And at higher speeds you mess up what you are grading as you can't react quick enough or roll the tractor.

skipperbrown · Feb 13, 2019

Thoughts on a 54" vs 60" mower deck: Unless you can't fit the 60" deck between trees, bushes, rocks, posts, or other landscaping, go with the larger deck. It gives you a tighter mowing turn radius and makes it easier to mow around bushes and other things that stick out but you want to get close to the trunk.