Buying new tractor - novice operator

[gryhnd]

Hi, female here with a lot to learn, safety being priority. My husband passed away in December so I'm on my own with 20 acres (less than half of that needs mowing). I have a New Holland TC-30, manual/gears, purchased new around 2007. Attachments: FEL, Rotary cutter RZ 60 Bush Hog, Finishing mower, box blade. Also auger but doubt I'll use that much. I need the bush hog for rough areas of tall grass/bushes (depending on how often it's maintained), guessing maybe 5 acres. Also need bush hog if behind on horse pasture (several acres). Then ideally move to finishing mower for pastures and possibly rough areas if have kept up on it, but some may always need to be bush hog. Box blade for gravel driveway and also moving rock in seasonal creek so it's passable with truck near barn.

Also, do have ZTR mower which I'm now using on most of horse pasture (once it had been cut with bush hog) although I'd prefer to use finishing mower.

TC30 had issue and all hydraulic fluid leaked out and I could not steer it back to house. Obtained new hoses from New Holland dealer and a handyman (no experience with tractors) changed the hoses for me. Used it a bit and now it has poured out again. Realize it is possible he didn't tighten the hose connections enough, or I'm hitting something (?), was trying to cut a rough overgrown area belonging to neighbor at the time.

Friend has suggested I trade for a hydrostatic transmission, which would be easier for me to operate. He has a buddy at Kubota, so that is what I am considering since he'll help me shop and also transport it home. My initial thought was that I need to stay with the same HP. It's possible I will hire out for some of the rougher stuff going forward, at least until it's under control. Most of the ground is level, but part of the rough field is not (I will likely not be comfortable cutting on the hilly part). There are what I'd call obstacles around the place, a pond with a raised bank, fencing, areas where when creek overflows, branches/logs/rocks will be left behind so I try to be careful and keep the cutter raised a bit.

I've narrowed it down to L2501 (wt 2,601, HP 24.8/19 PTO), LX2610SU (wt 1,786, HP 24.8/19.5 PTO) or L3310 (wt 1,918, HP 30.8/27 PTO or LX3310 (wt 2,778, 33HP/26PTO). Current setup is wt 2,193, PTO 30/25.5 PTO, so the LX's weigh less and the 2501s are less HP than TC30.

Questions/concerns:

1. Weight of tractor - going by the general rule I read, some of these seem to be underweight for HP. If that's the case, then do most people add weight? I don't want to have traction/stability issues. Will be 4WD/ROPS.

2. HP - should I be staying with at least what I have now, which would be the 3310s, or is it possible less HP would be okay? I feel TC30 is sometimes not as stable as I would expect, but I could just have the wrong expectations for what it's capable of doing and likely I've tried to have it do more than what it can do this summer (heavy brush/small trees, and realizing bush hog hasn't been serviced). Time is not really a factor, sure would be nice to cut quicker but I don't have to. Normally when I bush hog, I have to keep it in 1st gear.

3. Attachments - if the 5' bush hog needs 25hp PTO to operate properly, that that knocks out the 2501 models, unless I trade for 48".

4. Any reason I should be considering larger? I think that now that I have found a few people to hire, if it's too rough I will leave it alone and let them cut it with other equipment.

My understanding is the LX series has more options - I don't need a better seat or a tilt steering wheel, for example, but of course if that is the best tractor for me, I won't turn them down .

Appreciate your input.

 

[bearthebruce]

2007 TC30 - how many hours on it? Are you sure the problem is not fixable? Cost of fixing could be a lot less than buying new.

TC30 seems a good size machine for your 20 acres.. I take care of 150 acres with a machine about the same size...

1. Most here will tell you to buy the heaviest tractor you can buy for the size. Then you will be told to add weight. The hilly part of the property will be better managed by the weight.

2. The brush hog you have needs 25hp.. I have a similar unit. So your PTO HP needs to be 25 or higher. That means your engine needs to be large enough to deliver that power while moving. 30-35Hp should work. To cut quicker, you likely have to go bigger. You likely will need a bigger mower which will take more power.

3. See above...

4. See above...

I only have a little over 200 hours in the seat. I am running a tractor like you have in the New Holland. I am learning what I can do with that machine.

We have 15 acres of meadow to mow and 2-3 miles of trails. We maintain the driveway down the 350' drop from the top of the mountain to the main gate. The meadow has roughly a 15 degree slope. We use a 5' brush hog, a 6' foot rear blade, a 5' box blade, a 6' rake. The tires are not filled but we always use ballast front or back depending on what we are doing. Our Massey does not have a hydrostatic transmission - it is a gear transmission.. lots of shifting and that can be fun on the hills.

The first mowing of the 15 acre meadow, I was cutting stuff that was 10 foot tall, 1" thick... We chugged right through it - slowly. Speed was not in the plan. Took me 5 days to cut it the first time. Now I go somewhat faster but the growth is lots of grasses which bog a brush hog down and takes all the HP the tractor can deliver. I often have to slow my speed to let it cut. That's ok.. I'm not in a big rush.

If this were my problem, I think I would get someone to come look at the TC30 and see if it can be fixed rather than spending for a new machine. But that is me...

 

[jeff9366]

New Holland TC30​

Engine Detail
Shibaura N843
diesel
3-cylinder
liquid-cooled
Displacement:	91.3 ci 1.5 L
Power:	30 hp 22.4 kW
Rated RPM:	2600
Starter volts:	12

Dimensions
Wheelbase:	63 inches 160 cm
Length:	109 inches 276 cm
Width:	54.3 inches 137 cm
Height:	82.4 inches 209 cm
Weight:	2193 lbs 994 kg

2001 - 2008 Compact Utility tractor

 

[Williy]

The YT235C is a great tractor if you want a new tractor
in the 35 hp range.

willy

 

[ericm979]

I'm sorry for your loss.

Many hydraulic fluid leaks are pretty easy to fix. For example bad seals or leaking hoses. Is there an obvious leak that you can see under the tractor? Losing 5-8 gallons of fluid will make quite a mess.

Running the hydraulic system dry can damage parts.

You may be able to find a mobile tractor mechanic who can come to your place to diagnose and fix the problem.

 

[gryhnd]

Thank you. I would assume the hydraulic leak can be repaired, and it's possible that the handyman did not tighten it enough, although I was able to drive it a little bit in between leaks and it didn't leak out while sitting in garage. That's why I was wondering if it's possible to hit/run something over and somehow break the hose.

I was thinking that it would be worth getting a new tractor so I could have hydrostatic transmission and was also thinking/hoping that maybe implements are easier to swap out on a new tractor (?).

I believe the TC30 has 900 hours on it.

I haven't found a mobile tractor mechanic yet, but there is a Kioti dealer several miles away and they said they'd look at it and repair if not difficult but that does mean getting it there. A friend is coming this weekend with his skidsteer mower to cut the overgrowth in field that is partially hilly, and he also plans to lift up the front end of the tractor to move it to a better spot - the steering gave out on me while I was in a tight spot on the property and just not going to be able to move it by driving it, no room for it to not steer.

 

[K5lwq]

Gryhnd, Where are you located? It may be that if you are close enough, one of the members here might could come take a look at it for you.

 

[jeff9366]

Dealers will usually transport tractors for service for around $2.00 per mile.

Inbound and outbound = 4 transportation segments at $2.00 per mile.

Most drivers are prepared to winch dead tractors from a reasonably flat field onto their trailer.


Is it worth getting a new tractor so I could have hydrostatic transmission?

HST? YES.
According to Messick's tractor, a high cred contributor to TBN, 90% of new compact tractors are sold with hydrostatic transmissions.

Also thinking/hoping that implements are easier to swap out on a new tractor.

Two pieces of Three Point Hitch hardware help.

1. Telescoping Lower Links. A latch allows Lower Links to extend about 3", individually. Hence, you do not have to align tractor and pins exactly, only within 3".

2. Pin adjustable, rather than screw adjustable, Lower Link stabilizers.
(pin adjustable stabilizers)

These components are standard on deluxe tractor models, usually optional on economy tractor models.

When you have difficulty mounting implements, relate your problems here. Mounting technique is important. Fifteen years ago, as a newbie, I had a lot of support from T-B-N members in explaining Three Point Hitch mounting sequence and techniques.


VIDEOS:

 

[dlctcg]

I was thinking that it would be worth getting a new tractor so I could have hydrostatic transmission and was also thinking/hoping that maybe implements are easier to swap out on a new tractor (?).

I believe the TC30 has 900 hours on it.

So IMHO even if you decide to move forward with a new tractor for the sole purpose of having a hydrostatic machine (which we have & like... a NH TC40D) you should still troubleshoot & possibly repair your current TC30. That machine should bring pretty good money in todays market with only 900hrs, if running correctly.... not running correctly you will probably take a good hit on resale. Many people don't want to deal with the new machines & the emissions / electronics on them & with current shortages machine prices have held up very well. The TC30 is a good machine but I would understand if you wanted to go hydro....

Oh & in our experience hooking up implements only got easier with extendable lower links & by adding a hydraulic top link... I know many like 3pt quick hitches but we like the extendable link with a hydraulic top link....

 

[jeff9366]

I need the bush hog for rough areas of tall grass/bushes (depending on how often it's maintained), guessing maybe 5 acres. Also need bush hog if behind on horse pasture (several acres). Then ideally move to finishing mower for pastures and possibly rough areas if have kept up on it, but some may always need to be bush hog. Box blade for gravel driveway and also moving rock in seasonal creek so it's passable with truck near barn.

Hi, female here with a lot to learn, safety being priority.

I am going to reference another thread. Safety is your priority. Steep slopes are the priority for the poster. A Ventrac or Steiner could be the solution for both you, as mowing is the prime tractor application foreseen by both of you.

What advice would you give someone using equipment in the mountains? I would probably use a Zero turn for the lawn grass.

Consider a Ventrac or Steiner for your primary mower.
Ventrac is a division of Toro.

Expensive, durable, two-plane articulated equipment designed for mowing slopes.

The primary market for both Ventrac and Steiner is golf courses. Service should be available in western NC.

VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Ventrac+Steiner


A little fear is better than a notion of invulnerability during tractor research.

Picked up a previously owned Ventac today. Not the best condition, but it'll do the job and give me something to clean up!
PHOTO ATTACHED.

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